RX-8 Yellow Injectors 107 DC, 12 Psi TD04
Just wanted to ask a question, currently running my TD04 at 12 PSI on a 1991 Miata with stock fuel pump and stock regulator. I just put in RX-8 yellow injectors and they are hitting about 100 ish duty cycle and I have the log for it as well. I was wondering if this means I need a new pump or regulator because I thought these injectors would be able to handle that. Attached is the log. https://www.dropbox.com/s/46on6p55g4rewv9/dyno.7z?dl=0
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Where did you get the injectors? why do people still try to save 200 bucks on injectors....FlowForce are like 300 bucks and are flow matched, real injectors.
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1431459)
Where did you get the injectors? why do people still try to save 200 bucks on injectors....FlowForce are like 300 bucks and are flow matched, real injectors.
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Likely fuel pump. DW100 is recommended, but with stock (OEM) sock.
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a quick trip to the injecor calculator shows that at 250 crank hp you are needing about 430 cc @90%. so you are probably maxed out.
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1431492)
Likely fuel pump. DW100 is recommended, but with stock (OEM) sock.
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1431493)
a quick trip to the injecor calculator shows that at 250 hp you are needing about 430 cc @90%. so you are probably maxed out.
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No idea. google it. I was thinking you had a 1.8 which would be plausible, but now I see you have a 1.6
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1431498)
No idea. google it. I was thinking you had a 1.8 which would be plausible, but now I see you have a 1.6
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Assuming TD04L-13T, In doubt OP is at 250 even at crank at 12psi.
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That calculator only works if you're AFR's are in line and your burning all the fuel at the right time (timing) all that factors into the BSFC part of the injector calculations.
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1431511)
Assuming TD04L-13T, In doubt OP is at 250 even at crank at 12psi.
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yeah, so assume less than optimal afr(rich) and you are probably at or near 100% duty.
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You need to keep an eye on AFR's, they get erratic as you near 100% duty and there is no float left to cover cooler air temps or a multiple of other factors that change fueling needs. It's risky and any good tuner will tell you it's a bad idea.
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Originally Posted by Bronson M
(Post 1431544)
You need to keep an eye on AFR's, they get erratic as you near 100% duty and there is no float left to cover cooler air temps or a multiple of other factors that change fueling needs. It's risky and any good tuner will tell you it's a bad idea.
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Originally Posted by Bronson M
(Post 1431544)
You need to keep an eye on AFR's, they get erratic as you near 100% duty and there is no float left to cover cooler air temps or a multiple of other factors that change fueling needs. It's risky and any good tuner will tell you it's a bad idea.
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You'll spend enough on a fuel pressure sensor to know for sure as you would on a pump. A DW100 or a walbro 190 will cover you and not risk being too big and overrunning the FPR. With that said, I'm guessing it won't help but it's good idea to replace the pump to be sure.
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it would help you only if your stock one isn't working properly
if you didn't dial in the injectors properly, then the IDC's, which are calculated using that info, are nearly useless. in which case there's no real way of knowing if they're maxed aside from eyeballing afr's when testing my msm, the stock injectors hit something like 135-140% IDC before the car started to lean out. lol |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1431560)
it would help you only if your stock one isn't working properly
if you didn't dial in the injectors properly, then the IDC's, which are calculated using that info, are nearly useless. in which case there's no real way of knowing if they're maxed aside from eyeballing afr's when testing my msm, the stock injectors hit something like 135-140% IDC before the car started to lean out. lol |
Originally Posted by polarity8181
(Post 1431561)
. I also need to calibrate the voltages for my battery as well and the dead time.
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