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-   DIY Turbo Discussion (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/)
-   -   S15 Garrett GT2560r doesn't fit with FM elbow (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/s15-garrett-gt2560r-doesnt-fit-fm-elbow-96422/)

HeavyD 03-18-2018 10:26 AM

S15 Garrett GT2560r doesn't fit with FM elbow
 
So I bought this used turbo, which has the divided turbine housing, and completely forgot the FM elbow has an extruded divider as well. I'm guessing my options are;
To remove one of the two dividers
Buy different turbo
Buy different elbow/downpipe
Trade for a similar elbow
Any thoughts
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7f1f3cc69.jpeg

sixshooter 03-18-2018 10:34 AM

Or a different exhaust housing for the turbo.

fredb 03-18-2018 11:37 AM

Or you can take the elbow to have the mating surface machined flat and they'll accidentally remove the divider it for you. Ask me how I know. Fredb

curly 03-18-2018 12:16 PM

To be fair, if you thought you could bring that to a machinist and thought they could plane it without removing the divider, you’re partially to blame.

hi_im_sean 03-18-2018 02:05 PM


Originally Posted by curly (Post 1472296)
To be fair, if you thought you could bring that to a machinist and thought they could plane it without removing the divider, you’re partially to blame.

Id love to hear why you can't "plane" that without removing the divider (machinist here).

curly 03-18-2018 02:09 PM

Automotive machinist. Yes a mill with a custom fixture could go around it, but as a machinist, how much would you charge for that? (Ex-machinist here)

hi_im_sean 03-18-2018 02:18 PM

LOL custom fixture? you know mills traverse in X AND Y. You have to use both handles Josh. Once clamped in a vise and trued (a process which would have to happen regardless of whether the divider gets removed or not) its a 5 min job, maybe $20 for the whole thing.

And how much I charge for it has nothing to do with it being possible or what the customer asked for. You say you were a machinist, but this is like the 3rd time Ive corrected your incorrect info regarding machining on here, on pretty basic stuff at that (like mills go in x and y). Your either full of BS, or were a terrible machinist.

curly 03-18-2018 02:21 PM

Little bit of A & B, apologies for stepping on your machinist nerves

cnano8 03-20-2018 08:08 PM

Use a grinder with a cutoff wheel on the elbow, not worth messing with the turbine housing.

psyber_0ptix 03-20-2018 08:39 PM

@Shibby is this what you had the machinist do to yours? Creating a nesting/overlapping relief for both lips to interlock

Shibby 03-20-2018 08:56 PM

Yeah, I had to have a machinist notch the upper downpipe for mine. I have friends that work at the Volvo truck plant in town that were able to take care of it for me, so I have no clue on the cost.

HeavyD 03-21-2018 07:30 AM

I'll take the elbow to the local machine shop and see what they think. I was going to have them port the wategate and a path to it anyways. Probably cheaper than me having to buy a die grinder and good bit etc.

HeavyD 04-06-2018 06:22 PM

The local machine shop charged me $15 to mill that divider down. I ended up using my dremel and the one carbide bit from set for porting. Worked pretty good honestly, like 30 minutes, to do the path and a little on the wastegate hole. I did find two small cracks where the CHRA seats. Hopefully it will be okay for awhile.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f582cbb4d.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb57c0238.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a39df45d0.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...653615ee1.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d87f7abe3.jpeg

andyfloyd 04-07-2018 04:10 PM


Originally Posted by HeavyD (Post 1475914)
The local machine shop charged me $15 to mill that divider down. I ended up using my dremel and the one carbide bit from this set for porting. Worked pretty good honestly, like 30 minutes, to do the path and a little on the wastegate hole. I did find two small cracks where the CHRA seats. Hopefully it will be okay for awhile.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f582cbb4d.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb57c0238.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a39df45d0.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...653615ee1.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d87f7abe3.jpeg

Porting work looks good, I plan to do the same thing to mine when I take it off in a couple weeks. I was getting a lot of boost creep past 5000rpm with stock housing and no porting. That crack shouldnt be much of an issue, ive seen much worse honestly. Those housings are pretty cheap to find though so you could always replace it if the crack gets more substantial.

FLMSM 04-14-2018 01:16 PM

Had the same Scenario
 
I was faced with the identical situation--Garrett S15 T28 with the FM DIY turbo kit. I just used my Dremel to cut the turbo outlet divider and then grind it down. I did not want to mess with my turbine. I was amazed how easy the cutting wheel took care of it. Best of all, the mating surfaces were completely flat, since the divider on the turbine does not come out all the way. Easy fix with what I already had. Cost--$0.


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