Fallin Blade

iTrader: (1)

ok so I've decided that the best turbo for my needs would be a T3. The only thing i dont know is which t3 to get cause i want the larger hp numbers but not so much the extra lag. its going on a 1.6 and i know there are either a .60 .48 .42 but does the smaller ones choke off power that much and spool faster? ive also seen mixtures like Braineacks setup. so just any and all info on the t3 would be good especially if you have one. Thanks

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

You want the .42/.48 combo, it holds the power and can handle up to 250hp. Depending on the psi you want to push, a .50, .60, or super 60 wheel would be best.

Fallin Blade

iTrader: (1)

So you use the Super 60, how does it feel. i just now noticed that 170hp is a lot compared to say the greddy kit at 6psi, is this just from really good tuning? What numbers would you be looking at if you ran 10 psi you think? and what turbo does Loki run with and whats the difference between his and yours. ( i know its alot of questions but im like a 19 year school kid who looks up o you guys...... you guys have turbo miatas........ thats freakin crazy!!!!)

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

with a super 60 and good tunning at 10 psi you should get 200whp. if you run a standalone then you could get more but 200 at 10 with piggys is pretty goid a believe Rev2red was running 8 psi with his current sig hp. i hope this helps.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

It feels pretty nice, the transition to boost is very smooth and it pulls hard to the redline. There should be a video in a Greddy thread about BOVs that I took of my boost gauge while pulling on the street. I'm at 6-7-8psi by 3-3.5k or so.

I would say it would make around 200rwhp at 10psi. I'm only using a 12:1 FMU, o2 clamp and bipes for managment. Part of it was good tuning, I tuned it on a dyno and I only came in with 135hp. I'm upgrading to a Periburg pump and slightly larger injectors and I'm trying to reach 180-190 without any piggyback. I should get it back on the dyno in a few weeks.

BTW Braineack here = Rev2Red there (I used to be a sponser and changed my name)
Also, my boost guage is fairly inaccurate so I'm not exactly sure what psi I'm really running.

Fallin Blade

iTrader: (1)

Sweet man, so now there do source the super 60. and do i just send to a shop and tell them that i wanted 42/.48 on it or what? also what would you use, e- manage or mega squirt? ( in a few years your going to have your own T3 miata cult and Loki and i will be at the head of the pack with the purple cool-aid)

ruger988

i'm 17....graduated from HS....AND i have a newly turboed miata.....that i paid every dime for!!!!

Fallin Blade

iTrader: (1)

You want a pat on the back kid? here is two cents to go with your Dimes, ok congrats!!! now stop interupting!!!

ruger988

i was just trying to get the point across that i don't care how old you are or whether or not you'r ein school or whatever...if you want it bad enough you van easily afford to modify/turbo a miata....they're cheap fun,plain and simple.....that's why i decided to keep it and get rid of my eclipse when i blew that engine and was just getting the miata as a temporary DD.

by the way you can have your 2 cents back...put it towards your turbo

brian

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

he is proud of his accomplishment but abit over enthusiastic i admit oh well one of these days he will stop doing mutiple thread posts for related questions. at least you guys are learning that is the important thing, no one should ever stop learning

Loki047

iTrader: (6)

Dont worry about it, its probably a greddy (its like buying a dell and bragging about it) jk

Rugers only reason you could pay everyone penny is because your parents were paying for other stuff.

And as for my setup, im running a completely custom made setup (from manifold, to downpipe, ic piping, and oil lines) I have no numbers yet. Right now im working on getting the car to idle. Im using a t3 50. I wanted it for the hopefully quicker spool up. This is just to get me through school as soon as I graduate im gonna make another setup and use my current car to run into braineacks...

And as for the purple cool aid your in line on your own, while we have very similar setups (intercool/turbo) I actually started looking at t3s cause of Markp over on m.net and then verified everything with Braineack

PS. Im only 2 years older than you, learn to weld and for 1200 you can have a complete setup (emanage blue and intercooled)

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

who needs an intercooler? you t3 guys think you are so smart.

Loki047

iTrader: (6)

Well see if it ever idles! (greddy people have it made with stripes now)

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Here's one place to source it....I have no idea if they are reliable or not.

http://www.westcoast-turbo.com/turboa.html


The .48 / .68 are A/Rs. Basically how the inner volume exiting the housing is. (Best I could explain it). The larger the a/r, the slower the spool since it requires more air to pass through the housing to spin and exit the turbine. A .48 housing is will still spool up fairly quickly and will not choke out on power up untill the 250-300hp range.

The compressor housing also has a a/r of either .42 or .63, same thing applies here. The smaller a/r will allow the boosted air to travel out of the housing faster with more velocity, but can choke up at a higher psi.

The compressor has different wheel trims as wheel that will effect the efficiency and spool of the turbo. The Super 60 is just ever so slightly larger than the .60 wheel. Each has it's own map where they produce better results at a given psi level. A .50, .60, or Super 60 wheel should work well. For example, a .50 wheel may be more efficient at 12psi but a Super 60 wheel may be better at 8psi.

The place you are sourcing the turbo should know exactly what you are talking about if you say you want a T3 with a .48 turbine housing and a .42 compressor housing with a .60 trim wheel. Just don't tell them that and have them send you a T4/T3 hybrid, it's not fun.

Also don't buy anything you are unsure of, we can help you (Somewhat). I made the mistake of buying a used DIY kit that I've seem to have replaced or modified every single piece of it. No joke.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Here was the begining of the end for me:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ight=turbo+kit


(btw, this way my first post ever here)

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

Until my project gets underway... I can't vouch for Miata flow and turbo matching... but I am very pleased with a 60/63 T3 on my 1.6L honda motor. Spools very nicely and doesn't crap out up top.

F20turbo

Here is what youll want... Get the .60 compressor housing and the S60 wheel. The .60a/r housing doesnt really increase lag, but it does increase the flow of the compressor (good thing).

On the turbine side youll wanna rock the .48 a/r with the standard stage 1 T3 wheel. Youll see 10psi @ 3200-3400rpm and have a turbo capable of 300whp @ 19psi or so on a 1.6L.

Fallin Blade

iTrader: (1)

Wow thanks you guys, that answered my question exactly. So no more quetsions about the actual turbo. Now two more quetsions......

first should i go with mega squirt (which honestly scares me) or E-manage? Some one said i would only see 10 psi and 200 whp with the E-manage, is this true? i mean Braineack your trying to hit 180-190 with out the piggy right so with one you should be able to go well past 200 Right? If the mega squirt isn't as scary as it looks what all do i need to make it work? If you have a better i dea then please let me know as well.

Second, manifold and down pipe? are there any pre made ones or am i going to have to have a shop make one? how much should this run me?

Loki047

iTrader: (6)

If i had money, BEGI would have all of it soon. Check them out. Corky Bell is smarter than most people realize or than he lets on.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Corky's building me a t3 downpipe that mates to his manifold. He's then going to use it to start production on them. The problem is there are 5 T3 exhaust configurations, I have the standard 3 bolt pattern, so chance are you'll have to send him the turbo so he can fab one up for you to fit with your flange. You can still pick up the manifold for $299 for now which is a steal if you just want to build your own DP.

Yes, I'm trying to hit 180-190 without a piggyback. It should be easy, when I was on the dyno I was runnign with a cracked manifold. I'm adding a little extra fuel and will be on the new BEGi manfiold and DP when I take it back for some more tuning. With an e-manage I'd run it to 12-15psi and hope to make as much power as possible, but that will wait until I get a new rear-end.