Shanghai S IC or Ebay DIY?
07-26-2012, 04:22 PM
#28
Well if you're going ms2 then you wont need to worry about a maf as the ms2 uses a map sensor. Install the MS unit first and then after you have that running good install the turbo kit.
If you install the turbo kit first without dealing with the fueling, you'll be the guy making a blown motor thread.
If you install the turbo kit first without dealing with the fueling, you'll be the guy making a blown motor thread.
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07-26-2012, 07:47 PM
#29
Here's how I went around my DIY IC piping on the last setup
1) Used this pipe for BOV
T-pipe
2) Used an NB throttle body. It doesn't need a fitting for Idle control valve, eliminating the need for that hose
3) I put my AIT sensor into the intercooler end tank, eliminating the need for a fitting on the piping
If I had to do it again I'd just get fittings welded. Local shop welds aluminum bungs for $30-45 all day long.
1) Used this pipe for BOV
T-pipe
2) Used an NB throttle body. It doesn't need a fitting for Idle control valve, eliminating the need for that hose
3) I put my AIT sensor into the intercooler end tank, eliminating the need for a fitting on the piping
If I had to do it again I'd just get fittings welded. Local shop welds aluminum bungs for $30-45 all day long.
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07-27-2012, 12:23 AM
#30
Here's how I went around my DIY IC piping on the last setup
1) Used this pipe for BOV
T-pipe
2) Used an NB throttle body. It doesn't need a fitting for Idle control valve, eliminating the need for that hose
3) I put my AIT sensor into the intercooler end tank, eliminating the need for a fitting on the piping
If I had to do it again I'd just get fittings welded. Local shop welds aluminum bungs for $30-45 all day long.
1) Used this pipe for BOV
T-pipe
2) Used an NB throttle body. It doesn't need a fitting for Idle control valve, eliminating the need for that hose
3) I put my AIT sensor into the intercooler end tank, eliminating the need for a fitting on the piping
If I had to do it again I'd just get fittings welded. Local shop welds aluminum bungs for $30-45 all day long.
Well if you're going ms2 then you wont need to worry about a maf as the ms2 uses a map sensor. Install the MS unit first and then after you have that running good install the turbo kit.
If you install the turbo kit first without dealing with the fueling, you'll be the guy making a blown motor thread.
If you install the turbo kit first without dealing with the fueling, you'll be the guy making a blown motor thread.
Anyways, I got the price from Brandon Fitch from Flyin' Miata for "everything" I may need. Tell me what I don't really need and what I need. I purchased an Intercooler from Bikersam. I'm going to fabricate some ghetto-riged mounts for the intercooler.
[specs for Intercooler]
IC 21"x7"x2.5"
[Part list from Brandon]
[Quantity][Part][Price]
*(1) Throttle Body Junction Pipe 90-93 $54.95
*(1) Plug, Allen, 3/8NPT -- $1.00
*(1) Air filter mount pipe
Connects Filter to Elbow 90-05 --$34.95
*(1) 90-93 Comp to intercooler hose
(silicone) -- $105.95
*(1) IC outlet hose (Silicone)
silicone IC out pipe for new kit -- $119.00
*(1) Throttle Inlet Elbow (silicone)
1990-93&NB 90-93 and 99-05 -- $36.95
*(1) Compressor inlet hose, fits 2554 and
2560 -- $53.95
*(1) FM lower radiator hose w/ clamps
silicone, one piece hose -- $46.95
*(1) Filter, air current 90-05, turbo
kits except 1.6 voodoo -- $38.95
*(1) Silicone Hose 1.375"X2.5"
BLACK (blow off valve) -- $3.95
*(2) Hose Clamp 33-57mm
(blow off valve) -- $9.00
*(1) Hose Clamp 52-76mm
(IC hose joints) $4.50
*(1) Hose Clamp 59-83mm
(throttle body/AFM)-- $4.50
* (1) Hose clamp, T-bolt 57mm
2.25 inch $5.95
* (5) Hose clamp, T-bolt 70mm
2.75 inch -- $29.75
Total: $550.30
I don't think I need to re-route the coolant hoses, I don't have any powersteering or A/C components and I don't think I need the filter, since I have the filter coming from begi w/ the turbo kit.
I'm thinking of using the 1.8 injectors since they could handle more than the 1.6 (correct?) and upgrading the fuel pump...mmm... but then again, the shanghai-s comes with the fuel pressure regulator..
Last edited by AdoboMiata; 07-27-2012 at 01:37 AM.
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07-29-2012, 12:35 AM
#36
Reality is you're not going to get a wideband plug installed on the stock piping just so you can remove it a month later and you will also need the wideband to tune the megasquirt so personally what i'd recomend doing is installing the turbo kit, the megasquirt and the wideband all together. After you install the turbo kit, unhook the wastegate from the flapper door and leave it open. Now tune the megasquirt with the turbo "disconnected". Which turbo did you get? If you didnt go too big it shouldn't be able to spool which will make tunning up to 100kpa much safer and easier. The fuel pressure regulator, is it a steady increase or is it a variable? Steady will be easier to tune with the megasquirt. I wouldnt even waste my time with the FMU.
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07-29-2012, 07:33 PM
#37
Yes you WILL need a wideband.
Reality is you're not going to get a wideband plug installed on the stock piping just so you can remove it a month later and you will also need the wideband to tune the megasquirt so personally what i'd recomend doing is installing the turbo kit, the megasquirt and the wideband all together. After you install the turbo kit, unhook the wastegate from the flapper door and leave it open. Now tune the megasquirt with the turbo "disconnected". Which turbo did you get? If you didnt go too big it shouldn't be able to spool which will make tunning up to 100kpa much safer and easier. The fuel pressure regulator, is it a steady increase or is it a variable? Steady will be easier to tune with the megasquirt. I wouldnt even waste my time with the FMU.
Reality is you're not going to get a wideband plug installed on the stock piping just so you can remove it a month later and you will also need the wideband to tune the megasquirt so personally what i'd recomend doing is installing the turbo kit, the megasquirt and the wideband all together. After you install the turbo kit, unhook the wastegate from the flapper door and leave it open. Now tune the megasquirt with the turbo "disconnected". Which turbo did you get? If you didnt go too big it shouldn't be able to spool which will make tunning up to 100kpa much safer and easier. The fuel pressure regulator, is it a steady increase or is it a variable? Steady will be easier to tune with the megasquirt. I wouldnt even waste my time with the FMU.
The FMU came with the kit.. The turbo I got is a China Charger, journal bearing, Oil & Water cooled, and it's comparable to a GT2854. As for the fuel pressure regulator.. I'm not too sure. Here's the link for it 2025 FPR For Aftermarket Turbo and Supercharger. BEGI Bell Engineering / Cartech BEGi
Hm, my bank has been giving me problems lately, I'm in the process of looking for a used mspnp.
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08-02-2012, 08:33 AM
#39
Cpt. Slow
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Yes you need that. If you really want you can use the ait sensor in the AFM, but then you have to keep the huge AFM just for a tiny sensor. A new one can be had with a pigtail wiring harness for $20ish at diyautotune.com
As for that intercooler list, make sure you think about your setup for a long time, see if you can eliminate turns, or if 90* pipes and straight couplers might be cheaper than 90* couplers and straight pipes. Cx racing has really cheap pipe, couplers, and especially clamps. I'd definitely trust siliconeintake couplers more.
As for that intercooler list, make sure you think about your setup for a long time, see if you can eliminate turns, or if 90* pipes and straight couplers might be cheaper than 90* couplers and straight pipes. Cx racing has really cheap pipe, couplers, and especially clamps. I'd definitely trust siliconeintake couplers more.
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08-02-2012, 01:25 PM
#40
3/8" NPT Aluminum Weld-On Bung for IAT or CLT Sensor DIYAutoTune.com
Or this if your piping is stainless
3/8" NPT Stainless Steel Weld-On Bung for IAT or CLT Sensor DIYAutoTune.com
And then heres your sensor.
GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail DIYAutoTune.com
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