Shutting my BOV up.
 

I have one of those JDMTYTEGREDDY Type RS knock off blow off valves. It does the trick, but my engine pulls too much vaccum for the valve to "snap shut" as it were, even with both springs in it and the adjusting screw all the way in, giving a faint whistle while it slowly closes after the dump. While I'm waiting on the wife to approve the purchase requisition of a real bov (read:Tial) is there an easy way to shut it up in the meantime? It sounds like squealing brakes after every dump.

I was thinking to drill and tap the adjusting screw location and putting a longer bolt in it, adding to the compression force of the weak ass springs. Thoughts?

take out the smaller spring and use both vacuum ports.


whistle/chirp:



whooooooooooosh:




same BOV. Greddy Type-S

Ah, but it's a type rs and only has one vacuum port. It would seem the only way to control the shutting is overcoming the vacuum wit a stronger spring.

you want less of a spring so the vacuum can pull the diaphragm open EASIER.

lol no

start over

The problem lies not in the valve opening, rather keeping it shut at idle.

so either get a stiffer spring, shim it, or extend the stud to compress it more. my guess is spring too soft and shimming/extending stud will not solve the problem and might even lead to issues (not fully opening valve, etc).

FFS, do you know anything?!

Why would putting in a stiffer spring and preloading it more make the valve open easier?

bro he wants the valve to CLOSE HARDER not OPEN EASIER

With this style BOV, It's hard to get it to close fully at idle and workign correctly in boost.

I removed my inner spring, and it's probably cracked 1/8" at idle. If I try to adjust it down any more to seal at idle, it won't release when i snap the throttle closed; only flutters.

If I adjust almost closed, it will introduce a whistle as it sucks in air from the small gap...is that the issue?

Exactly as you described. Whistling as the valve shuts. It opens just fine, but is really slow to close as the vacuum increases. I tried to get it to be seated at idle, but even with both springs and the screw turned in it floats about 1mm above the full seated position. I guess that's just the price I have to pay for my aids ridden bov. I should have gotten a better one right off the bat.

I opened my preload screw as much as possible, then closed it a little at a time until the BOV would work without flutter. You're left with it leakying at idle, but i mean, whatever.

you could try oiling it too... it's possible it just needs a lube job.

oh look you can kinda see it here:

Huhuhuh. Lube job.

I'll try that before tearing it down again. I guess I can deal with leaking at idle more than the whistling. Trying to perfect my idle is a bitch when I have a known leak.

you're not MAP based?

Tps based.

I dont understand, your DIYPNP does not have a MAP sensor? You're using Alpha-N code and not Speed Density?

Sorry, misunderstood. My acceleration enrichment is tps based. I am using speed density.

so how does a leak pre-TB affect anything?

I guess it doesn't, but in my mind it's a bad thing. Coming from the stock 92 afm, I can't get it out of my head that unmetered air doesn't matter anymore.