So i have had my 90 for about a year, Time for a turbo, how much will it cost me?
 

So i have owned my 1990 miata for about a year now, so far is has gotten a new head gasket, rear main seal, clutch, clutch slave, Racing beat front sway, 1.8 breaks all around with hawk hps pads, buddy club bucket seat, harddog ace roll bar, tein ha coilovers and a front upper strut bar. And to connect me to the road is a set of falken rt 615's.

Ive come to the point where i'm satisfied with how the car handles and i am now looking for more power. I was thinking jackson racing SC but then decided since i have a 1.6l i think a turbo is what im looking for a little bit more. I plan on kind of turning my car into a track car, yet been able to drive it on the street.

So what i am thinking about 160 rwhp or so but im still new to this turbo stuff and thats why im posting trying to figure it all out. So my question is aprox how much will is cost for me to get that kind of power. I can DIY some stuff but i would much rather but a kit and have it be a little more reliable

If it matters it has 98k miles on it but runs very strong and has had all maintence done.

Here are some shots of my car: enjoy
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Between $3,164 and $3,170 plus shipping.

BTW- nice clean engine bay. :bigtu:

Another Impreza/Miata owner?

Have you read the faq?
It can cost as much as you want. Do you want bolt on or DIY? It can range from $1k for a used greddy to $5k for the most kick ass setup around. Every thing is relative to your ability to both shop around and or do things yourself instead of purchasing premade.

I'd suggest greddy as I've seen a lot of people with that kit and a few band-aids making right around the power that you are talking about.

ive seen greddy making north of 200whp with megasquirt :)
$2k greddy-based setup can make that power.

A used GReddy kit, an MSPNP, injectors, and a clutch will set you back around $2500 and around 150rwhp. Add an intercooler or water injection and 200rwhp is very doable. You can do the bandaids, with a Bipes, FPR, and O2 clamps, but for another $200 or so you can have a totally programmable standalone ECU. Worth the extra coin to me.

skip the greddy, that kit sucks. put a kit together or get a begi.

But if he isn't looking for tons of power and wants to start with a kit, then the greddy seems like a good point to start from, I would if I was in that position. Plus there is lots of support on this forum for that kit and advice on how to make more power from it.

sounds like BEGI is what im looking for


Does anyone know if the stage 1 begi kit with there fuel system will be all ill need? Also has anyone installed the kit itself, just wondering how long it takes. Thanks in advance i cant wait to save up enough to get this going!

I'm about to install one and a week from sunday.

save some cash for a new diff too ;)

Looks clean, I totally dig the black valve cover.

As mentioned, there are numerous ways to get the power you want... you really need to give us a $$$ amount you're willing to spend. Since you mentioned Begi (which will take you where you want), I'm gonna guess at about $3k. In that case, here's what you need to get the most for your money:

MSPnP w/EBC/IAT/v-TPS: $850
Injectors: $100
LC1 WB02: $185
Begi Manifold and DP: $800
eBay IC setup: $300
Boost Gauge: $50
BOV: $50
MiscFittings/DualFeedFuelRailParts/VaccumLines/Hoses: $200
Motor Mounts: $80
Fuel Filter: $40
Tranny/Dif fluid change: $40
2xOil Change (one cheap, one synth): $30
Clutch (if your new clutch is OEM, it won't hold. ACT is the bizzle): $450

And now for the turbo itself. T25's are good for the street, most are at full spool by 3500rpm, great midrange torque. T3's a better for the track where you spend most of your time at higher RPM's, and have much more top-end potential, later spool time, but more power per psi when it does come on. Good condition, working T25's and T3's are available on eBay, hundreds of forum classifieds, Craigslist, junkyards, etc. There's no need to spend more than $200 on a good used working turbo.

Total: +/- $3500.
The above setup, depending on turbo will make your desired 160whp at around 7psi... but also be good for upwards of 250whp if you decide to turn up the boost. It's nice to have that adjustability with Megasquirt. Trust me, after a few weeks of 160whp... you'll be wondering what 10psi feels like... then 12psi... 200whp in a Miata will take down Mustangs, 350z's, just about anything FWD. If you don't drag/drift/burnout, the stock 6" dif will hold up fine until you can save up enough to get a Torsen.

If you're totally looking to cheap out but stay reliable, get a used Greddy kit. They pop up in the classifieds all the time. Upgrades for the power you're looking for is a Bipes, 1.8injectors, Fuel Pump, and IC or WI. Should be able to get a used kit for $700, and then another $500 for the upgrades... make a nice 170whp@8psi for under $1500.

READ THE FAQ!!! https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/diy-faq-all-your-answers-one-big-post-4288/

Either the Bell Series 1, or the FM Voodoo II. Both are complete kits, with an intercooler, a good turbo, a good exhaust manifold and downpipe, and mediocre engine management. However they are complete and will run fine right out of the box, yet provide good upgrade potential with a minimum of parts that must be disposed of down the road.

The thing I'm trying to figure out is what the Bell "Fuel System" is comprised of. It's not the Xede. I'd have thought it was the old-style fuel pressure regulator, except that the (*) note for the "Base Price" system indicates that "price includes FMU" which is what Bell calls the AFPR. Perhaps the $250 upcharge is for the Pierburg auxiliary fuel pump? Hard to say, as Bell doesn't seem to publish the install docs anymore.

Neither kit comes with an ignition retard box- they just tell you to retard the static timing a bit. This works, but $225 will get you a Bipes ACU. Alas, it's one more thing you'll have to sell if the serious power bug ever bites you and you decide to go full standalone EMS, but it's a good box and a lot of folks here use it at the mid-power levels.



All that having been said, I'm inclined to agree with SamNavy in recommending that you at least consider a partial DIY system. Your '90 is a very easy and forgiving engine to work with, and if you are the least bit handy with a wrench and a computer you can easily score more power for less money, without sacrificing reliability, if you put together a DIY system starting with Bell hard-parts (manifold, Downpipe, etc) and using a proper engine management system like the MSPNP, instead of relying upon bandaids for fuel and ignition management.

$5