So I Turboed my Car...
 

Ok I turboed my miata...
I did not do it right, I know I didn't, how screwed am I?

It has been turboed for 2 months now,always had issues but it has gotten far worse lately

Car was a stock 1990 miata until the turbo went in

So my list of parts

eBay Cast Manifold (cheap and so far so good)

eBay Turbo from a sr-20 (free from a friend, might steal his garret)

HUGE front mount intercooler from my MazdaSpeed3 (stored for the winter)

Snow Performance stage 3 Methanol injection (there is my extra fuel Maybe?)

HKS SSQV BOV

Custom:
Downpipe and Exhaust

Intercooler piping

Oil + Water Lines


So now the problem

My car is NOT happy with me

Very rough idle (just got new plugs and wires, going to instal them in the next couple of days)

Cannot hit full boost at lower RPM without major back fire and serious hesitation

Car generally not running very well, throwing engine codes all the time (dont have an obd1 reader)

Help?

(i will take the abuse i am going to receive with quiet understanding)

So you have no fuel control and no wideband?
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:hustler:

You mean you added huge amounts of air and no fuel... and the motor doesn't like it? What could possibly be the problem? I would ask if your afrs are around 16 or 17 in boost but you have no wideband to even see how effed you really are.

Now, me and the mad scientist got to rip apart the block... and replace the piston rings you fried.

Now this thread has potential!:drama:

Ok while i don't have a Wideband my Methenol Kit does show pulse width and i have never gone above 75%

That means nothing. The $150 you saved by not buying an lc1 or the like probably just cost you an engine.

How much boost? Tell me you at least have a mbc and a gauge? How can you lurk on this site for over a year before starting your build and not learn anything?

huh?


phil, you going to start hanging out here a bit more often now? bout time, you are missed :makeout:

The methanol kit also shows boost and I have never hit over 8 psi

No manual boost controller either. I just watch my meth kit more then I watch the road :s

I have a lot of experience with the mazdaspeed engine. Just not
Much with the miata engine.

How you blow a speed engine: run out of fuel.

That has not happened yet to the miata so as far as I can tell the engine is not catastrophically blown.

Don't kid yourself. You have ran out of fuel. Thats why your car wont rev for ---- in boost.

Do yourself a favor, don't drive the car at all - especially in boost until you get a wbo2 on there and some kind of timing/fuel control.

I would laugh and make fun of you, but there was already - and will be plenty more of that in this thread.

The laughing and making fun of is fine with me I deserve it. I should have done far more research before trying to make the miata into the beast that is my speed. As long as their is advise to follow. That's why I'm here, to learn.

And what would cause the car to backfire and shutter so hard when hitting boost at lower rpm (at high rpm it is not a problem and the only time I have hit any sort of boost)

What I have done which really helps is open up the wastegate completely (un attached the wastegate actuator) and I don't have problems and only get boost at 6000 rpm

From the research I have done is that my timing is to advanced at lower rpm which is causing all the problems. One advantage I do have in regards to that is the fact that is has not been above freezing since the turbo went in.

In in in, I'm in on this one.

So your saying that you disconnected the waste gate and don't get boost till 6000 rpms? This lets the engine run fine up till then?

Do a compression test, buy/borrow/steal a wideband setup, get a boost controller, get controll* of fuel and hope that you still have something to work with...

You probably blew up the motor. 8psi with absolutely no additional fuel for 2 months is a great way to do that. When you install the replacement motor, get a wideband, injectors, and an ECU so it doesn't happen again.

Just to hammer home this point, you cannot run boost on a car that is not designed to have boost with just water injection... From what I can read from your responses, you previously had a factory boosted car and you were able to increase the boost and manage it with water meth. The only reason this would work is because the factory car computer can understand what positive pressure means and how to react to it. You go and put positive pressure into a regular miata and you are going to blow shiz up. Chances are you've detonated the hell out of this motor, but it's possible you got lucky. You need to disconnect your wastegate (if it's internal) and not run any boost. You need some sort of device to increase fuel. Best option would be a megasquirt. Other options include fuel risers, piggy back ECU's, and even adjustable fuel pressure regulators. You also need to decrease timing somehow. A stock greddy turbo kit suggests you drop the base timing to 6 degrees, but that's with 4psi of boost on a small ass turbo. You really need to get a new ECU or piggyback to adjust your timing accordingly.

PS, go look at turbo kits made by Flyin Miata and BEGI. Look at what is included in those kits and see what parts you are missing. And in regards to your comment about it lucky that the temperature has been below freezing... that's not going to have any effect on your fuel shortage problem. Detonation will happen not because your motor is too hot but because you have too much air and too little fuel.

Good luck.

:inout:

so much fail.

1. Sell WI kit, buy proper engine management and WB

3. Tune your car

2. Hope you didn't kill your motor.
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I thought that people like this were mythical.

How can someone take the time and research and labor to put all this shi on their car but not take care of the most important shi?

I mean seriously op, your mechanical and turbo-kit-from-scratch skills probably GREATLY exceed mine. But how are you so fuking retarded?

I have faith, OP will be back with internally built 1.8, baller turbo, 1794 psi boost; and wonder why his 1.6 differential is making strange noises.

Just to be clear: a wastegate will be fully open when you hit your target boost. Therefore, although you will slow down response quite a bit, you will still generate boost. As you said you are not experiencing boost now until 6000rpm. Please note: this is still not safe. Now from 6000-7000rpm you will be in boost with no extra fuel. Still very unsafe.

But the ECU has no idea how much more air is being put in, it's just pegging at it's limit of 0% boost.

You're mega lean and a mega noob, you NEED engine management or your car will die - if it hasn't already.

are we sure this not troll?

Detonation resistance increases with RPM. Now, your motor desperately needs more fuel. 8psi should be something like 170whp, you are probably making all of 100whp, or less.

I'm thinking this guy is a total troll at this point.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1328631944

In for the blown block pics!!!

Where are you located? I'll have a 91 1.6L for sale soon.
Also whoever gave this poor guy -1 on every post is a dick. so I fixed it.

I've got a 1.6l sitting in my storage room too.

Sorry, posted wrong place :vash:

I am really not trolling, i was hoping that the meth would make up for the lack of fuel, and i have reason to believe that.

On my mazdaspeed when you hit about 325-350whp you start to have fuel problems, the crank driven fuel pump cannot keep up and your fuel pressure drop from the ideal 1900 psi till 0 where your engine goes kaboom. Now i was going to buy anew fuel pump but my friend had a Stage 3 methanol injection kit that he said i should give a try to see if it would remedy my problem. So an hour later with the kit installed we take it out for a spin and Bam! no more fuel problems! It also made my car scary fast (its like adding boost to boost) I was running PIG PIG rich (in the 9-10 range) I was hoping the same effect would happen with the miata.

I guess not, going to do a compression test tomorrow and i will let you know if i will be getting a new engine or not (P.S. i live in Canada)

Lol @ adding boost to boost!
Your miata was not factory boosted, so the stock computer will not add fuel in boost. Your fuel pressure won't increase, and meth has nothing to do with adding fuel.
You need to find a way to make your car add fuel when it goes into boost, it's the simple.

Wow. Trollmastahhhhh

Crank driven fuel pump?:nuts:

I wonder how often you have to replace the fuel pump belt? Shiz gets real when that thing breaks from pulling 10,000rpms! Who would've thought they would move the electric fuel pump from the gas tank?

5. sell car

4. buy civic

My Opel Olympia -56 has a crank driven fuel pump. So does old Volvos and I am sure more. I am also sure this dude is a troll, however trolling quite well.

If I am wrong, we have once again proof that the Miata engine is a strong little bugger. 2months of 8psi with no extra fuel and still running? Respect.

1) mazdaspeed3 have direct injection. hence 1900psi fuel pressure.
2) they also have camshaft driven fuel pump
http://edgeautosport.com/products/CP...3-HPFpump.html
lol @ complicated new cars

edit: to clarify, the high pressure fuel pump is in addition to a regular, submerged in-tank low pressure fuel pump. yes, two ****ing pumps

stop this nonsense and get engine management.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ans-p-500.html

Running a 9 or 10 afr will wash the cylinder walls clean of oil, if it would even run. At that point the oil pan will be soo full of fuel that you would have to stop trollin.

So the miata received a bit of love today and the engine really is a strong mother F*****

Compression test put out a nice 210 - 225 - 200 - 210

Got new Plugs and she is back to purring like a little kitten.

I will be getting some sort of engine management either way, or maybe trying putting gas into the meth injection kit hmmmmmmm...

Have you any idea what you are doing?
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Fine there I was messing around a bit, I would never do that

just remove your wastegate actuator for now :facepalm:

just remove your car for now.

hahaha.

the MS3 is turbo'd from factory, so the ECU can already handle some boost increase. since the miata ECU is not turbo'd from factory, it can't handle any boost period. Matter of fact, other than the MSM, our MAP sensor isn't even read by the ECU (this is some what disputed, but we can discuss it another time) so it has no clue about pressure or not.

fuel management, thats it.

and yes the MSM is completely different, its Direct injected so the HPFP is the second pump, but its not there to get more fuel, its there to work the injectors. theere is still a regular LPFP in the tank that runs at more "normal" rates.

two different animals completely. MSM has turbo ECU, miata DOES NOT.

:noob: :slap: :gtfo: :laugh: