Some n00b q's
 

Hi everyone,

I'm getting abit bored of my car and after something a little more fun, and am looking at buying a miata (mx5 over here)

Attachment 215760

Thats my current car so im not new at the turboing thing but i do have a few q's about these miatas.

Basicly, im after about 200rwkw (265hp) and im wondering.

1. Which is better to turbo, the 1.6 or the 1.8, also which miata is better, the one with the pop up lights, or the next model up.

2. How much power can the stock internals take?

3. How much power can the gearbox take?

4. I was looking at the Flyin' Miata FM II Hydra turbo system. Is there anyhting better, or is it cheaper or better to source parts yourself.

From looking around this site, it looks like the 1.8 may be better due to the diff, and also seems to make more power

I'll probably have a few more things to ask later. But thatks for any help

1. A 1.8 will spool a bigger turbo quicker, so no brainer
2. 250-260rwhp seems to be the limit with longetivity in mind and 300 if you dont expect the motor to last forever (rings and bearings mainly). And im sure you understand the dangers of knock
3. If you drag/drift i wouldnt put it past 200rwhp to break trannies once in a while, but 300hp and maybe even 350hp can be done if you are careful with the loads they see (rear end included if 1.8)
4. Bell manifold - t3 turbo - bell downpipe. Cool the charge with an ebay intercooler + custom piping. Control fuel via an aftermarket ECU (for your goals it is basically a necessity ... I use megasquirt)

Those bell manifolds look a hell of a lot like ssautochrome from ebay

Bell makes all their own stuff. They might source the S5 manifolds out but I guarantee they're not ssautochrome and they're not cheap. Otherwise all their manifolds are directed pulse cast ductile iron, aka badass. Pretty much everything they sell is made in house by corky or a few of the shop monkeys.

yup, you nailed it. don't waste the money getting bell's S4 stainless tubular manifold. it's just a repackaged SSAC manifold from ebay.

















:inout:

to answer your question, the best miata for your desired power is most likely the 1.8, buy one with it already in keeps things simple and lets you focus on just turbo problems alone...just trust...
as far as what kit, most people here are DIY'ers, in the long run you will come out much cheaper but a lot more work is involved, obviously...
the motor is not the problem for that range of power if its properly tuned, you have to be careful with your tranny and diff. the motor is good for 12psi
good luck, and dont post honda pics here, some people may ban you :gay:

google:

"corky bell"
"maximum boost book"
"supercharged book"

The Corky Bell School of Dance represents nearly 50 years of dance tradition, offering tap, ballet, jazz, pointe, and gymnastics instruction


















I was just checking bout them manifold.

So the box cant handle the power. How weak are they, what goes?

Argh, i dun wanna go buy an r33, i wanted something diffrent

The trannys suffer from case flex and gear shearing. The 1.6 difs breack ring gears, and the 1.8 diffs most often breack lsds. Ultimately you will want a rx7 t2 tranny or a later model 6 speed, with a aftermarket lsd or a rx7 lsd swap. Most people consider 250 lbft. To be a reasonable danger zone for a the tranny and lsd on a 5 speed 1.8. A later modle miata just doesn't look as good and, you will have a higher initial buyin + it is harder to get around the more abundant emmissions crap. That being said the 99 head is the best flowing by far and both Airbrush and Y8's have made some very impressive power with there NB(newwer miatas) and some decent sized turbos. I suggest you look at there builds and posts for some options. Markp also comes to mind. All though he is behind airbrush who hit 296whp at 14 psi vs marks 16 psi but ot marks defense he was using the SSautochrome manifold. ;) and Airbrush was using a custom or begi unit i believe. Cjernigan is a good source for MS info on the NB's he is a very smart guy and also very helpfull. Also please consider WI at that power level, it realy works GL buddy. Also to put hings in perspective at 265whp you will have a power to wieght of 10-1 (4.54Kg-1hp) or better as the car sits with a full fuel tank and 150-170 lbs(68-77Kg) driver. A r33 would need 400+whp to equal that i believe aren't they around 3700lbs dry add 140-200 lbs for fuel and 150-170 for driver and you hit 4000 lbs (1818 Kg) pretty quickly

skylines weight 1360-1390kg

How does one take care of the box?