Some noob questions
12-17-2007, 05:10 PM
#1
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Some noob questions
First of all I want to note that I have read the FAQ's.
Second of all I want to note that this place is a hundred times better than miata.net. The "how can I tell if my car has an LSD" thread pushed me over the edge
. Also the fact that people there pay thousands of dollars for a JSRC setup that gets them slightly more power than the NA BP in my escort has is a big red flag.
Anyhow, I don't have a miata yet. Next month I'll have around $2k to buy one, which I intend to do (I am willing and prepared to do body work as long as the car runs and drives well
). What I'm thinking is that I should buy a 94-97 since it will save me money in the long run because of the rear end and brakes. I could probably get a 1.6 one for cheaper but it seems like rear end setups sell for $600 or more, which sucks. What I'm having a hard time with is whether I should avoid OBD2 cars or not. Some say yes, some say it doesn't matter. What do you think?
What I want to do engine-wise, is achieve 250+whp on stock internals. The car won't have to pass emissions or inspections, and so far I like the idea of the megasquirt, although tuning the engine to that extent seems a little bit intimidating (I guess I'll have to learn eventually).
I was also thinking that getting a megasquirt up and running as a first step would be a great plan, so I could make sure it works and figure out how to use it before I actually throw the turbo stuff on the car. Or while I'm accumulating parts because I can't afford all of it at once, however you want to look at it lol.
Give me input
Second of all I want to note that this place is a hundred times better than miata.net. The "how can I tell if my car has an LSD" thread pushed me over the edge
. Also the fact that people there pay thousands of dollars for a JSRC setup that gets them slightly more power than the NA BP in my escort has is a big red flag. Anyhow, I don't have a miata yet. Next month I'll have around $2k to buy one, which I intend to do (I am willing and prepared to do body work as long as the car runs and drives well
). What I'm thinking is that I should buy a 94-97 since it will save me money in the long run because of the rear end and brakes. I could probably get a 1.6 one for cheaper but it seems like rear end setups sell for $600 or more, which sucks. What I'm having a hard time with is whether I should avoid OBD2 cars or not. Some say yes, some say it doesn't matter. What do you think?What I want to do engine-wise, is achieve 250+whp on stock internals. The car won't have to pass emissions or inspections, and so far I like the idea of the megasquirt, although tuning the engine to that extent seems a little bit intimidating (I guess I'll have to learn eventually).
I was also thinking that getting a megasquirt up and running as a first step would be a great plan, so I could make sure it works and figure out how to use it before I actually throw the turbo stuff on the car. Or while I'm accumulating parts because I can't afford all of it at once, however you want to look at it lol.
Give me input
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12-17-2007, 05:35 PM
#3
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Welcome to the dark side. 
I don't know if I satisfactorily answered the OBD question you had on the other forum, but here's my take:
Within the range of '94 - '97, OBD-I vs. OBD-II is not significant assuming that smog testing and the occasional CEL are not a problem for you. Mechanically, they're identical. For the most part, the sensors and ECU I/O are also identical. The later cars have a post-cat O2 sensor, the sole purpose of which is to bitch at you when it fails, but there's not much else of critical importance that differs between the cars. I wouldn't let OBD-II be a problem- all of the NA ('90-'97) cars are fairly easy to turbocharge. And if you do decide to run a Megasquirt, then the difference between them drops to zero.
'94 was the last year that the cars had a real oil pressure gauge, but it's an easy retrofit into the later years if you're so inclined. They all have the same basic running gear- Torsen diffs were optional (based on equipment package) on all of 'em, though there was a change from a "type 1" to a "type 2" Torsen in '96.
A new clutch will definitely be in order. Opinions vary, but the consensus seems to be that the ACT "XT" will handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. Beyond that, the longevity of your tranny and diff is going to depend on whether you ever decide to throw on slicks and head down to your local quarter-mile. It's unlikely you'll damage either one on street tires or on an autocross course.
I don't know if I satisfactorily answered the OBD question you had on the other forum, but here's my take:
Within the range of '94 - '97, OBD-I vs. OBD-II is not significant assuming that smog testing and the occasional CEL are not a problem for you. Mechanically, they're identical. For the most part, the sensors and ECU I/O are also identical. The later cars have a post-cat O2 sensor, the sole purpose of which is to bitch at you when it fails, but there's not much else of critical importance that differs between the cars. I wouldn't let OBD-II be a problem- all of the NA ('90-'97) cars are fairly easy to turbocharge. And if you do decide to run a Megasquirt, then the difference between them drops to zero.
'94 was the last year that the cars had a real oil pressure gauge, but it's an easy retrofit into the later years if you're so inclined. They all have the same basic running gear- Torsen diffs were optional (based on equipment package) on all of 'em, though there was a change from a "type 1" to a "type 2" Torsen in '96.
A new clutch will definitely be in order. Opinions vary, but the consensus seems to be that the ACT "XT" will handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. Beyond that, the longevity of your tranny and diff is going to depend on whether you ever decide to throw on slicks and head down to your local quarter-mile. It's unlikely you'll damage either one on street tires or on an autocross course.
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12-17-2007, 05:42 PM
#5
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Welcome to the dark side.
I don't know if I satisfactorily answered the OBD question you had on the other forum, but here's my take:
Within the range of '94 - '97, OBD-I vs. OBD-II is not significant assuming that smog testing and the occasional CEL are not a problem for you. Mechanically, they're identical. For the most part, the sensors and ECU I/O are also identical. The later cars have a post-cat O2 sensor, the sole purpose of which is to bitch at you when it fails, but there's not much else of critical importance that differs between the cars. I wouldn't let OBD-II be a problem- all of the NA ('90-'97) cars are fairly easy to turbocharge. And if you do decide to run a Megasquirt, then the difference between them drops to zero.
'94 was the last year that the cars had a real oil pressure gauge, but it's an easy retrofit into the later years if you're so inclined. They all have the same basic running gear- Torsen diffs were optional (based on equipment package) on all of 'em, though there was a change from a "type 1" to a "type 2" Torsen in '96.
A new clutch will definitely be in order. Opinions vary, but the consensus seems to be that the ACT "XT" will handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. Beyond that, the longevity of your tranny and diff is going to depend on whether you ever decide to throw on slicks and head down to your local quarter-mile. It's unlikely you'll damage either one on street tires or on an autocross course.
I don't know if I satisfactorily answered the OBD question you had on the other forum, but here's my take:
Within the range of '94 - '97, OBD-I vs. OBD-II is not significant assuming that smog testing and the occasional CEL are not a problem for you. Mechanically, they're identical. For the most part, the sensors and ECU I/O are also identical. The later cars have a post-cat O2 sensor, the sole purpose of which is to bitch at you when it fails, but there's not much else of critical importance that differs between the cars. I wouldn't let OBD-II be a problem- all of the NA ('90-'97) cars are fairly easy to turbocharge. And if you do decide to run a Megasquirt, then the difference between them drops to zero.
'94 was the last year that the cars had a real oil pressure gauge, but it's an easy retrofit into the later years if you're so inclined. They all have the same basic running gear- Torsen diffs were optional (based on equipment package) on all of 'em, though there was a change from a "type 1" to a "type 2" Torsen in '96.
A new clutch will definitely be in order. Opinions vary, but the consensus seems to be that the ACT "XT" will handle pretty much anything you can throw at it. Beyond that, the longevity of your tranny and diff is going to depend on whether you ever decide to throw on slicks and head down to your local quarter-mile. It's unlikely you'll damage either one on street tires or on an autocross course.
So is it safe to say that I should avoid the 1.6 cars period?
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12-17-2007, 05:49 PM
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I think you need to seriously sit down and re-evaluate your goals for reality.
First, $2k miatas do exist, but good luck. Anything that cheap is immediately snapped up for SM. Then, to get your "250+whp" is easily $4k if you're fiscally tight, and realistically probably easily $6-8k once you get everything sorted.
If you're replacing the ecu w/ a standalone such as MS, and you don't have yearly inspections, who cares if the car was originally OBD0,1,or2.
Also, you'll want to do at least a minor build of your block to sustain that type of power. Forged rods at a minimum. And anything you can pick up for $2k is probably going to need rings replaced, pistons de-carbonated, and probably the head cleaned up and a valve job. And all the sudden you're pushing $10k.
Like I said, I think you need to do some soul searching. I also think you need to do a lot of searching and reading before you reply.
FWIW, I used to drive a 69 Cultass S convertible, small block, center console, buckets, white with blue interior. Sold it because I got an offer I absolutely could not refuse. My dad has a numbers matching 70 442 (real 442), no post coupe, with a the 455 mildly worked and cams, rebuilt TH400 w/stall, Posi (I forget what ratio he's running now), buckets, and the very rare Hurst His/Hers shifter. It's completely and correctly restored except for paint and the headliner. Also, someone busted one of his NOS grills he put in.
He used to also have a 71 Supreme convertible, but he sold it to my uncle, and it's currently getting a complete restoration and motor build. Oh, and one of my friends has a 71 SX hardtop.
First, $2k miatas do exist, but good luck. Anything that cheap is immediately snapped up for SM. Then, to get your "250+whp" is easily $4k if you're fiscally tight, and realistically probably easily $6-8k once you get everything sorted.
If you're replacing the ecu w/ a standalone such as MS, and you don't have yearly inspections, who cares if the car was originally OBD0,1,or2.
Also, you'll want to do at least a minor build of your block to sustain that type of power. Forged rods at a minimum. And anything you can pick up for $2k is probably going to need rings replaced, pistons de-carbonated, and probably the head cleaned up and a valve job. And all the sudden you're pushing $10k.
Like I said, I think you need to do some soul searching. I also think you need to do a lot of searching and reading before you reply.
FWIW, I used to drive a 69 Cultass S convertible, small block, center console, buckets, white with blue interior. Sold it because I got an offer I absolutely could not refuse. My dad has a numbers matching 70 442 (real 442), no post coupe, with a the 455 mildly worked and cams, rebuilt TH400 w/stall, Posi (I forget what ratio he's running now), buckets, and the very rare Hurst His/Hers shifter. It's completely and correctly restored except for paint and the headliner. Also, someone busted one of his NOS grills he put in.
He used to also have a 71 Supreme convertible, but he sold it to my uncle, and it's currently getting a complete restoration and motor build. Oh, and one of my friends has a 71 SX hardtop.
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12-17-2007, 05:53 PM
#8
welcome to MTnet, based on your first post i forsee longevity with you here, lol
i myself prefere a 94-95 car, but do not be affraid of other years, seems you are already well aware of the major differences between the 1.6 and 1.8 cars and telling you one was better than the other would be a waste of anyones time, just get the most car you can afford, since you are willing to buy a wrecked one, the more power to you
i myself bought mine vandalized and fixed her up to my liking
good luck in your search and i hope to see pics of your new baby soon
-Dan
i myself prefere a 94-95 car, but do not be affraid of other years, seems you are already well aware of the major differences between the 1.6 and 1.8 cars and telling you one was better than the other would be a waste of anyones time, just get the most car you can afford, since you are willing to buy a wrecked one, the more power to you
i myself bought mine vandalized and fixed her up to my liking
good luck in your search and i hope to see pics of your new baby soon
-Dan
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12-17-2007, 05:54 PM
#9
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I think you need to seriously sit down and re-evaluate your goals for reality.
First, $2k miatas do exist, but good luck. Anything that cheap is immediately snapped up for SM. Then, to get your "250+whp" is easily $4k if you're fiscally tight, and realistically probably easily $6-8k once you get everything sorted.
If you're replacing the ecu w/ a standalone such as MS, and you don't have yearly inspections, who cares if the car was originally OBD0,1,or2.
Also, you'll want to do at least a minor build of your block to sustain that type of power. Forged rods at a minimum. And anything you can pick up for $2k is probably going to need rings replaced, pistons de-carbonated, and probably the head cleaned up and a valve job. And all the sudden you're pushing $10k.
Like I said, I think you need to do some soul searching. I also think you need to do a lot of searching and reading before you reply.
First, $2k miatas do exist, but good luck. Anything that cheap is immediately snapped up for SM. Then, to get your "250+whp" is easily $4k if you're fiscally tight, and realistically probably easily $6-8k once you get everything sorted.
If you're replacing the ecu w/ a standalone such as MS, and you don't have yearly inspections, who cares if the car was originally OBD0,1,or2.
Also, you'll want to do at least a minor build of your block to sustain that type of power. Forged rods at a minimum. And anything you can pick up for $2k is probably going to need rings replaced, pistons de-carbonated, and probably the head cleaned up and a valve job. And all the sudden you're pushing $10k.
Like I said, I think you need to do some soul searching. I also think you need to do a lot of searching and reading before you reply.
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/512117522.html
Also, I know for a fact that the BP is fine with 250whp if it's tuned right.
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12-17-2007, 05:57 PM
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welcome to MTnet, based on your first post i forsee longevity with you here, lol
i myself prefere a 94-95 car, but do not be affraid of other years, seems you are already well aware of the major differences between the 1.6 and 1.8 cars and telling you one was better than the other would be a waste of anyones time, just get the most car you can afford, since you are willing to buy a wrecked one, the more power to you
i myself bought mine vandalized and fixed her up to my liking
good luck in your search and i hope to see pics of your new baby soon
-Dan
i myself prefere a 94-95 car, but do not be affraid of other years, seems you are already well aware of the major differences between the 1.6 and 1.8 cars and telling you one was better than the other would be a waste of anyones time, just get the most car you can afford, since you are willing to buy a wrecked one, the more power to you
i myself bought mine vandalized and fixed her up to my liking
good luck in your search and i hope to see pics of your new baby soon
-Dan
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12-17-2007, 06:00 PM
#13
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FWIW, I used to drive a 69 Cultass S convertible, small block, center console, buckets, white with blue interior. Sold it because I got an offer I absolutely could not refuse. My dad has a numbers matching 70 442 (real 442), no post coupe, with a the 455 mildly worked and cams, rebuilt TH400 w/stall, Posi (I forget what ratio he's running now), buckets, and the very rare Hurst His/Hers shifter. It's completely and correctly restored except for paint and the headliner. Also, someone busted one of his NOS grills he put in.
He used to also have a 71 Supreme convertible, but he sold it to my uncle, and it's currently getting a complete restoration and motor build. Oh, and one of my friends has a 71 SX hardtop.My dad has a 67 442 convertible with a 455 tri power and he also has a rallye 350. Fun cars
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12-17-2007, 06:02 PM
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Yeah. I was also thinking about this one. The guy said he'd take 2k but it's been FS for a while so he might go less. He seemed somewhat sketchy though
wow forgot the link
http://spokane.craigslist.org/car/490601486.html
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12-17-2007, 06:06 PM
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I always wanted a Ralleye350, but as I got into a financial position to actually afford something like that, their prices just skyrocketed and stayed out of reach
. I also have a 70 98LS Holiday Sedan w/ its original 455/TH400. Body's starting to go, but the drivetrain is sweet.
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12-17-2007, 06:06 PM
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Can we agree to disagree? I'll post receipts and updates through the project.
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