spending all my high school income on a 30 year old car
I replaced the intake cam seal, the front of the engine is still coated in oil when it builds pressure. The timing belt itself is covered so I'm not 100 percent sure that the leak is from the top of the engine but it seems to be coming from somewhere there. Assuming the front main is in properly (I had the last shop which looked at it replace it with an OEM), what are my next steps which don't involve pulling the engine?
If it were me, I'd clean the **** out of everything first. Then add a dye to the oil, then have someone crank while I crawled around and looked for the leak with UV glasses/flashlight. If it's leaking that much just from cranking I'd suspect a leak from something high pressure, oil pump, turbo lines, etc.
Its definitely somewhere on the front of the engine, turbo lines and back of the engine are dry. Disassembling the front now, are there any oil galley ports in the front? I know that the shop that built my engine didn't reinstall all the coolant (the bronze threaded) plugs.
Couldn't remember, but if you watch here, there's a plug installed. Video should start right around the 19 minute mark.
Edit - looks like that doesn't work. Just jump to 19:00 and you'll see.
Edit - looks like that doesn't work. Just jump to 19:00 and you'll see.

Follow the casting protrusions on the head, when they machine these, they need long oil passages that they drill, but then they need to plug the drill hole with one of the BSPT plugs. There's 2 long channels along either side of the head, and a channel front/rear connecting those two. On the VVT head above, you can see there's 2 on the back. Also two on the intake side, and one on the front. I think the non-vvt heads have 2 on the front. So VVT=x5 plugs, non-VVT=x6 plugs. Check out this link while it's active to see more pics. It's a really clean example where you can still see the black plugs installed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283479304006
Last Fall I was focused on tuning EBC and timing, I haven't gone on any extended trips. Now I just finished installing the new FM manifold and turbo outlet pipe so I'll be starting over with EBC and retuning fuel. I can't believe hwy mpg could be worse than the 28 mpg it achieved with the previous Hydra driving 80-83 mph on the 1800 drive home after purchasing it. I'm expecting 30+ with leaner cruise targets in my MS3 and the 3.6 diff gearing. 300whp should be good with either 3.3/3.6 but Kalmairn could verify, I think his 3.3 car is near 400whp.
Checked the plug, it seemed loose (yes it is a boundary pump) so I tapped it in hard enough with an 18 inch extension to slightly warp the metal lol. Two of the oil pump bolts (the visible ones) I was able to hand tighen with a wrench, after that the down low leak seemed to stop.
B.E. sent torque specs and blamed me for messing with the gear cover screws after I sent pictures of the loose plug. I had to purchase a 1/4" torque wrench and red threadlock to rebuild the pump, they wouldn't pay return shipping and mail a replacement. Their response was basically, we have video proof of each build, suck it! Maybe I never sent my serial number (purchased through a 3rd party seller) but didn't seem interested in checking the assembly video (if there even was one) or emailing it to me. This experience made me wish I'd purchased a pump from Supermiata, or just the B.E. gears for my OEM MSM pump.
Yeah, I like the idea of 6spd + 3.6 with the current engine I have but I have access to a **** load of industrial grade machining tools through my research at UCSB and a custom ZF build looks REALLY tempting considering I could drive the current 5spd + 4.1 at ~200 whp and still have fun (I haven't driven this car in over a year). No shade on boundary from me, at the end of the day after finding the oil plugs literally missing from the head I'm more likely to place blame on the (non-miata) shop which built the engine.
I'm assuming some RPM reading in a megasquirt log means something is right with the cam/crank sensors? Found out a bunch of butt plugs came loose and resoldered the harness, made oil pressure again on cranking with no plugs (and I smelt fuel!) but with plugs in its struggling to crank, I hope this is a battery issue so I'm just letting it charge for a while.






