SR20 T25 Clocking
 

I just got my SR20 T25 turbo in yesterday, and the oil ports are off by 90 degrees. So, I went to loosen the bolts, and I used an open ended wrench. Only one bolt loosened out of the four. I have the turbine inlet (manifold to turbo) flange in my bench vise to hold the turbo.

Of the other three bolts holding the turbine housing on, one of them is right behind the oil outlet casting, so I've no idea how to get a wrench on that, and the other two require too much force for an open ended wrench to loosen. I've already started to round two of the bolts.

Would heating the bolts up damage the CHRA? I figure that the bearings obviously are used to heat, but localized heating of the bolt might warp things.

I can't get the closed end of my wrench on top of any of the bolts, but I plan on grinding it down tonight and seeing if I can thin it out enough to fit.

Also are the bolts 13mm or 1/2 inch? They seem to fit better with the 1/2 inch, which surprises me, considering that the turbo has a big "Made in Japan" sticker on it.

Absolute worst case scenario would be to weld something to the bolts that would allow me to get clearance for more leverage.

Heat up the bolts and you should be fine. Several years ago I had similar trouble with an SR20 turbo I had. I spent hours messing with it trying to get bolts out. I took it out to BEGI while I was visiting Texas. Corky Bell had it apart in 5 minutes. I am not sure what magic he did that I did not.

I had same issues with one about a year ago when I was trying to inspect everything on a used turbo. It took soaking everything in PB blaster, heating housing and cooling bolts/CHRA to get everything apart. Once I had everything apart I cleaned up all mating surfaces and anti seize to hopefully keep it from locking up again. So far everything has been ok.

Note: if you get the bolts loose but housing wont spin you may need to wedge something behind the bolts and use them as a press to get it off, that was my biggest fight.

Not to get off topic here, but didn't 18psi used to work for ^ ?

I got all the bolts loose, I had to um "clearance" a home depot 1/2 inch wrench.

So, you're saying stick a scewdriver between the plate and the bolt, and then tighten?

As far as I know no. 18psi has always lived in Cali. I honestly have no clue what he does for a living, I just always imagine he is a Russian Oligarch sent to corrupt the Trump administration.

You can't really make water any more wet than it already is!

What do men wear under their kilts?

Under kilts of course!

Something like that. I would wedge something behind the bolt head(still tight at this point but able to get an open end wrench on it) then lossen it and it would press the housing off(Do it equally around so it would press of staright). Also good tap all around helps break it free a bit

*EDIT* I see that the OP has already gotten the bolts. this is just for any others who happen to find the thread when in dire need.

I just went through this process about 3 months ago as well. I had to grind down the tip of my open ended wrench, and even that wouldn't do it. I finally went all out and did the following:

Drenched the turbo in PB Blaster
Put the whole turbo in the freezer for 5 hours until it was a turbo-cycle.
Secured it to a flat surface:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...92800455ae.jpg

I then torched the bolt with a propane torch. Once properly heated, I used a cold chisel to hammer on the right side of the bolt-head, effectively spinning it counterclockwise. That got it for me.
I have never met a bolt that didn't succumb to the cold chisel method.

Well, the way I did it was a little rough as well. I ended up using a chisel in between a bolt and the turbine housing. I whacked it on two sides until the housing flew off. Ended up denting the CHRA. Not a pretty method, but once I put everything back together the, I didn't notice any increase in shaftplay/resistance.