T3 Turbo's..... fitment questions....
 

ok.... so my DIY setup has been done for about a month (well not really done...since I'm still workin the bugs out of it) The car is driveable, but I have an exhaust leak near the front of my JGS manifold.... seems as if it isn't quiiiiiiiiiiiiiiite straight (in the level mating surface sort of way).... It's something that I think my machine shop can handle easily however...

I've been hearing bad things about the T3/T4 57 trim I'm using (ebay special) Though mine seems to be fine (have checked periodically to make sure everything seems well and nothing has loosened up on me or anything)

My question is this.... If I were to invest in something lika a T3 super 60.... since I'll have to remove my manifold and stuff anyway to get it planed or whatever..... would it bolt right up... being a T3/T4 turbo??? What are my options as far as turbo's that should bolt right in place of my current one??? It has a 5 Bolt exhaust flange FYI

Whats your full setup consist of?

it should still bolt right up. The T3 part of the turbo is the turbine. The compressor housing is what is different and they should be the same dimensions. You could just buy a super 60 wheel, housing, and backing plate. But I'm not sure what is supossed to fail the ebay turbos.

People have said that they just come apart.... which I find hard to believe.... But I seem to remember at least one person who said they had first hand experience... Mine spools fine, and seems to make good power... spins freely, still looks fine... etc...

I'm prolly just paranoid...

what brand? turbo xs or something?

xs power... lol

the do come apart- mine did the first time I got into boost. That said, it really just depends on whether your lucky or not. If you've been running it and it's working. I wouldn't worry about it. You've really passed the big "hurdle".

IMO the super 60 is a better turbo for a daily driver Miata as it comes on sooner than the big turbo. If you want to swap to the super60 you just to make sure that the turbines are the same size. Then move your turbine housing and wastegate assembly over to the super60. That way you guaranteed your dp will bolt up.

btw- Most of those that had the chinese turbos come apart didn't have catostrophic results. Mine just made a loud screeching as the turbine blades hit the compressor housing. In three seconds I was in the break down lane. The housing was barely scraped- didn't find any aluminum dust further down the intake. - rob

yeah, I've boosted mine quite a few times.... and there don't seem to be any issues.... I guess we'll just have to see.... I guess I can just have it sent out somewhere to have it upgraded If I decide to change the wheel out.... I really don't want to mess with the inner workings of it too much, I always seem to have left over parts when I mess with shit...

also... the guy I bought it from mentioned that It had a garett wheel.... so perhaps it had been re-built already

I think you'd be surprised just how simple swapping turbine housing is. It's very similar to unbolting and bolting up a car wheel. But if your turbo is working, I wouldn't mess with it. I'm curious to see a dyno sheet with that turbo.

found it:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...10&postcount=7

Yeah... I'm havin problems finding someone I trust to tune the Hydra in my area... No one seems to have any experience.... with Miatas, or The Hydra

I really do want some numbers though... and a reliable tune.... The autotune (I have a wideband) is working fine, and I haven't had any knock at 6psi.... But I want to turn it up a bit... but I'm a bit apprehensive about that

I'll try and get some numbers for you guys as soon as I find someone to do the fine tuning and I get my exhaust leak fixed...

Wow, that fucking sucks :eek5:

A lot of those ss manifolds that break are run on fwd, w/o a flex pipe and give in under successive hard launches. Imagine the geometry of the set up and figure it's either going to snap at the turbo or the manifold/head flange. If it were me, I'd run the flex pipe and some braces from the turbo/turboflange to the block.

... as for power... still don't have a dyno to show you guys.... but I did outrun my buddies lightly modded S2K on the highway last night. Did a 55mph pull with him... and pulled him by 2 cars to about 110mph before we let out for safety's sake.

He has Hks exhaust, test pipe, CAI, apexi V-afc, and a light tune... he made202whp on the dyno. He's runnin 18" FN10RC's....and my wheels are 17's.

I'm only runnin .4 bar right now, and there are defenitely a few more psi left in my setup with the 460cc injectors. and I know that with a good tune I'll be able to make alot more hp than I am currently managing with just the autotune's work.

does anyone have a link to a place that could do the wheel upgrade for me???
I'm having some issues finding somewhere that could do it!

The problem with just swapping a wheel is that the assembly needs to then be balanced. That means shipping the turbo out and waiting for it to return. Is that what you want to do? And a t4 wheel isn't going to make a big difference like a t3 compressor/wheel assembly. It'll end up costing about the same as buying a good used t3... or close enough. And with the t3 you'll end up with a everything garrett (except your turbine housing IF you have to use it). That said- you can get the work done at just about any turbo shop- Limit Engineering came highly recommended to me. I'm sure others will have recommendations. - rob

think I'm going to just wait this turbo out.... see what happens.... EGT gauge will be here this week, hopefully I can have the leak at the manifold fixed and my new clutch put in.... then it's 9psi......maybe I can hang with my buddies GTO then.... we'll see!

Its thin walled stainless steel with crappy welds, FWD or RWD its going to break.

Yes- and we'll all eventually die too.
We ran a 16ga. ss tubular manifold with a T3 turbo for two seasons of road racing- about 20 total sprint races with practice and qualifying on an and never had it break or crack. It was braced at the turbine flange and on the downpipe (16ga.). There are others running the same thing on the street without them breaking. I'm telling you- if the welds are good and the pipes tear, it's from the stress of supporting the turbo and downpipe- and exhaust weight.
Look at those welds- they're still attached to the flange. :eek5:
The welds didn't give- the steel tore. Sorry- blanket statement won't work here. :nono: