Things are starting to come together...
 

Well I've been a lurker who's done a little posting on here for a while and I figured I show you guys what's growing in my garage.

Manifold with turbo mounted. Mani is JGS turbo header kit that my dad and I built.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/4...87largehx7.jpg

Here's how it looks in the engine bay
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/3...92largerc9.jpg

http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/568...93largeqi3.jpg

http://img475.imageshack.us/img475/5...97largeur9.jpg

Here's a shot of my car '95 Montego Blue PEP, need's paint but otherwise it's pretty solid.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/1...07largech6.jpg



Here's the engine that should be in my car instead of sitting next to it...
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/1...08largexa9.jpg


Enjoy, more pics to come as progress is made.

*cringe* rotery... eck

Cringe? Rotary is pretty sweet, still no engine in cars out there that will give you the amount of size for power. 1.3 L with plenty of power is nice. Besides the reason people don't like em is because they can't manage the service and technical repair. Seems to me he knows his stuff so he should be alright.

The turbo's as big as the motor :bigtu:

Looking good man, are you gonna get the manifold coated at all?
What's next in the build, downpipe?

That turbo looks pretty good, what is it?
I'm concerned about the attitude of your CHRA. I was always told that you should attempt to mount it within 10* of vertical. It looks like yours is closer to 30*. Do you anticipate any oil drain problems?

If I were a guessin man, I'd say it's a hybrid T3 T4.

But what do I know :dunno:

His signature says T3S60.
I second the CHRA being in the wrong position, make sure you clock it within 10* of vertical.

Yes, I'm planning on getting the manifold ceramic coated. The next step in the build is the downpipe. I'm contemplating spending the money getting a custom begi downpipe or spending the money on a welder and trying to fabricate the downpipe and exhaust myself. It's a tough choice but I'm leaning toward sending my sh*t to Corky and having him build it for me.

To everyone else the turbo pictured is a garrett t3 from a svo mustang. 0.60 compressor a/r and 0.63 a/r turbine. This turbo is actually for sale on e-bay, I've got a t3 super 60 (same thing except .48 turbine instead of 0.63) that I bought from blaastperformance on the way.

Thanks for the concern on the clocking, the pics are just a first mock-up. I will get the chra oriented 'correctly' with the new turbo.

As far as the 13bt, I love rotaries and I wish I could afford to put one in a roadster. My first car was an '87 TII, I just parted it out (frame and shell were rusted to hell) and I've got the engine, tranny and some other parts left over.

I'd love to have a rotary miata but that will have to wait untill I graduate (woot woot soon!) and have some real money (woot woot not so soon....).

I'd also suggest doing something to replace that radiator, or at least get the top and bottom tanks checked for any cracks.

When they go brown like that it's usually a sign that they have limited life left in them. Last thing you want is a major cooling system death whilst going hard.:eek: :sadwavey:

what are you talking about arthur all our oe radiators are painted brown?

i was kiddin about the rotary deal its all good :)

oOoOoOo thats a sexy beast. lol nice job thus far good luck

Ah and you really should rotate the mid center of the turbo so the oil drain faces directly downward

You mean he should "clock" it (technical term) :) And yes he should.

Actually about the radiator deal, I just replaced mine cuz it went bad and my new one is all black and clean. I don't think they were painted brown.

Looks like a fun project! Keep it up! And keep us posted!

Correct - they weren't brown from the factory - they go like that after years of dealing with heat from the engine - then the plastic goes brittle, and one fine day at full revs, the top (or bottom) of the radiator cracks and your coolant spills all over the road. The first thing you know about it is when you're out on a club run miles from anywhere, and your temp gauge spikes through the red zone, or your turbo seizes and your motor goes..... which if your gauge isn't reading quite right (there's abig dead zone in the middle) is the more likely option...... not a good thing when the turbo requires water to cool it.........

I've had mine replaced to a metal tank 2 core radiatior prior to boost. Combined with an oil temp gauge, means I know what's happening engine temp wise, and I know the radiator is up to the job.

exactly what happened to me, but lucky I had just come back from a meet/run, pulling into my driveway and I smelled coolant... the top of the radiator had given up at some point on the run, and held together until I got home. I replaced it with a auto miata radiator, 2 row all metal as well.

I was just glad it wasnt the bottom that gave up... if I were FI at the time prolly would have assploded

I was thinking about upgrading to the auto all metal radiator, where's the cheapest place to get one??