I didn't think of that.... Good thinking!

And if you can make almost 500 hp on this thing... I am sure it will be perfectly fine for my modest goal of 250ish.

please don't make silly blanket statements like this because some n00b will open this thread years from now and make a really stupid conclusion based on it.

It's pretty silly to compare his compound boost franken-setup on e85 to your basic Miata turbo setup

Making 500whp for 2 weeks and a few drag passes does not exactly say how long term reliability will be. The 1.6 tacotaco has been shown to crack after sometime on a real track. So I expect the 1.8 will possibly crack when also driven hard after some time. Now saying that, I still think they will be ok for 250whp on the street for a good long time. And honestly at $80 if it does crack you just buy a new one.

Well there is no way to guarantee long term durability on ANY new part. It takes time.

That said, so far this manifold works fine, and I'm probably pushing it harder than anyone else is currently. And as mentioned, if it only last a year or two, I'll buy another and keep going at this price. My car gets drag raced and street driven, so since I don't do long track sessions it will likely be fine for years on my car.

It seems too many people like taco's, the tacotaco went up in price by $35

Glad I got mine when it was super cheap :D

E85 isn't quite as warm as gasoline.

There is a very good chance that this wont be around again when yours cracks. I would stockpile a couple if I were you.

yep, he's right

I disagree. 1.6 tacoburritto has been around on and off since 09 or later.

Yeah, on and off. Pat doesn't wait around. What I mean is that it isn't always available. 1.6 was down for at least 6 months last time. I didn't mean it was going to disappear forever.

oh yeah we all love waiting a year to drive our car again

Looks like these are currently only available with T3 flange. Without any idea if/when they will put out the t2 version again would there be a way to convert this from t3 to t2 that isn't destined for failure?

Sounds like the exhaust outlet size may be the same between the T2 and T3 versions based on shuiend's post? I know Ive seen some people locktight studs into the holes, then hacksaw them flush, then tap new holes in the proper flange layout. Also have seen people weld a T2 flange over the existing flange. I have no idea if these are viable options or just an option when you are in a pinch. Would also be concerned about possible complications if the exhaust outlets are different sizes. I wouldn't want to create a situation that results in turbulent airflow.

The outlet at the flange are exactly the same on the t2 and t3 tacotaco's. The only difference between the 2 manifolds are the locations for the the stud holes. I don't think welding a t2 flange is a good idea, as welding to cast iron is hard to do. The screwing in studs and cutting them is probable the "best" method, but I honestly don't think it is a good one.

The real solution would just to be buy the t3 manifold, and the t3 turbo I use, then cut your rear shelf some and build a downpipe.

I would agree but i already have an SR20 T25. Which based on your other pictures seems to fit nicely with the FM downpipe. So the perfect situation would be to find one with a T2 flange.

I guess you'll have to wait then

Yep I think waiting is what you will have to do. Honestly mine is sitting on my garage floor being used as a door stop, but I won't sell it because one day I may actually use it.

On another note, did you ever figure out if there were clearance issues with the SR20 T25 and the full FM downpipe?

Top part of the downpipe bolts on fine, the bottom section looked like it lined up good with the exhaust, I did not really bolt everything together though as I was lazy. You may need to trim your shelf near the shock like all other FM/Begi manifolds.

The Begi downpipe lines up perfectly with the tacotaco. It bolts straight up to the cat, no modifications, no clearance issues. I am also using an sr20 t25. Not so sure if the FM downpipe will fit, as i believe the tacotaco design is taken from Begi.

Good to know. I thought the new Begi and FM manifolds essentially put the turbo in the same location, so if your begi downpipe works with the TacoTaco then i imagine the FM downpipe will work too. However, I'm not 100% sure the manifolds put the turbo in the same spot but I'm sure someone will chime in.

Do you happen to have a picture of the fitment?

Opt:
"The Begi downpipe lines up perfectly with the tacotaco. It bolts straight up to the cat, no modifications, no clearance issues. I am also using an sr20 t25. Not so sure if the FM downpipe will fit, as i believe the tacotaco design is taken from Begi. "

Your first ever post deserves a cat.

The downpipe comes close to the shelf, but it has never touched. Even with stock mounts on a drag strip. As with the heater core hose, it needs to be bent away.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463965430

Lines up with the cat. No modifications.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463965430

I'm assuming based on all photos posted that this manifold DOES NOT work with stock power steering...

It works with PS and AC. No fitment issues at all. Granted, i had to run 2in IC pipinng on the hot side. 2.5 can be done, but you may have to do some cutting.

Sorry guys, had been reading the ms section for troubleshooting threads to get to know what the devil i'm about to get into....for nine hours......Haven't yet turboed my miata, just reading up a lot on here.

So looks like the t2 version has an outlet opening closer to a t3. Would it be worth porting the t25 turbine housing to match the manifold outlet better or would the benefit not be worth the effort?

no, just install your cheap ass turbo and cheap ass manifold and move on with life.

Sig'd

haha well alright then.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89e7f9b1ac.jpg


Just bought bought from these guys a few weeks ago. For others who may be looking, I think they keep it at QTY 1 to make it seem like limited QTY are available. When I bought it went to 0 and the next day it was back at 1. Watched another thread and saw someone bought, the next day it went back up to 1.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

:giggle::dealwithit:

Hows the manifold holding up wanting to know because im probably gonna use this manifold for a street driven car 200whp~ I guess if its running on 400WHP cars surely it will last at least a couple of years be before it cracks

No problems to report. I bought a T3 version since I last posted as I went to a bigger turbo up front. It's working great. Can't beat it for the price.

Attachment 182517

how many miles do you reckon you've done / how long have you had it on?

The first one several thousand miles, and used anti-lag on it at least 200 times, probably more than that. The new one hasn't seen antilag yet (working on getting a trans that can take that power) and it's seen around 1,000 miles. I just got this setup running about a month or so ago.

It's going to have some crazy power going through it when I get an auto that will hold. As in swapping my ID1300's to ID2000's kind of power. :)

It's a cheap part, but it works really well for the money. If you're really really worried, buy a 400 dollar FM mani and be done. These are 1/4 the price and not as high of quality. These are for folks who don't want to spend a ton of money and want decent results. If you want perfect/flawless/absolutely the best there are manifold that cost many times what this one does, go buy one of those.

its honestly a price - what you get factor for me like if it cracks meh but id love to get at least a year or so out of it so i feels like its served it purpose

Wondering if anyone has any updates on how their manifold is holding up.

Pretty sure Pat summed it up pretty damn well.

Any updates on these? I'm considering one for my 1.8 T25 project. They sell really cheap on AliExpress now.

Cheers,

Hugo

they are fine, they work. you will need 4 longer outer studs

They also don't usually ship drilled and tapped for t2 flange when you order them for the t2. I have heard countless people over the last year order the t2 and get the t3 and told to pound sand.

This vendor specifically asked me per PM what size, T2 or T3. So I have good hope. We'll see...

What length stud is required? It will take a few weeks for the thing to ship over here, I would like to find the right ones and order now so they arrive together.

Cheers,

Hugo

I've ordered one a year or so ago, maybe a little more. Back then they were $80 shipped on Ebay. And indeed received a T25 one. Not t3. Now days I did hear a few people ordering t25 and getting t3. That's on Ebay though. Direct from China you might get the correct t25.

How long should the outer studs be? I already found its M10*1.25, just need to know the length to order.

Cheers,

Hugo

Well, the mani arrived this weekend and it does fit the GT2554r I have. It was packaged very badly as Chine stuff should, so the gaskets are a bit mangled but I'll staighten it out. The only thing I miss is the gasget between the manifold and the by-pass block off plate. That will need to be sourced as my turbo has an internal waste gate and I don't want the block off to leak.It also comes with the hiddious heat shield, I'm not sure I would like to use that.

Cheers,

Hugo

Just wanted to drop in an update to this thread about my experience with this manifold. So far it's held up great. I took my grinder with a cutting wheel to the outside corners so I could re-use my factory studs which makes me more comfortable I'm not risking stripping bolts in my block. Build quality seems great for how damn cheap it is. A little rough around some edges but nothing that can't be fixed with a grinder. When I ordered mine the one with the heat-shield and wastegate block-off plate/ hardware wasn't available so I had to order some of that separately. The block-off plate is just for a standard Tial 35mm/38mm and you can either get the plate alone for like $8 and supply your own bolts like I did (bolt threads are same as the turbo hardware), or with the bolts and a gasket (I didn't/ wouldn't use a gasket) for like $14. I wouldn't have been able to use the heat-shield with my setup and the exhaust gasket is more than likely junk anyway (I just re-used my factory gasket and it's holding up fine), so it's really just missing the block-off plate and hardware that holds it on. I actually made my wastegate bracket from scrap and bolted it to the manifold itself where the provided heatshield would have gone. It was a very convenient and easy spot to use that wouldn't have been usable on most other manifolds. As of 9/14/2018 both versions are available on ebay with and without the other hardware. Since the sellers change seemingly monthly just search "Miata T25 cast manifold" and look for the same design as these pictures. The mani by itself is $128 with free shipping (to Dallas TX) and the one with the other hardware is $130 with $58 shipping. It made more sense to buy the manifold on it's own for my setup, but your mileage may vary.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7944e05de3.jpgThis is the one sold without hardware
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cc5396dac2.jpgThe one with the extra hardware
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...33c8ad7765.jpgMy setup with the SR20 T25 turbo and taco taco manifold

How is the aluminum foil holding up? That's my plan until I build a good heat sheild.

Aluminum foil? Come on guys, real tape isn't that expensive... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010408/overview/

I don't want anything that can soak up oil since my engine leaks like a sive...

The foil? It-Just-Werks™ The car? Well, make sure your couplers aren't held in place with friction alone. Can't have as many heat problems if your turbo isn't working! :ugh:https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4f47a05d3d.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f2171f5a03.jpg

Thanks for the update, ungluedflyer. I don't quite agree with the heat management (I would be scared to fit the boost control valve thingy like that), but it's good to know the mani works.

I am fitting mine at the moment. I bought four M10x1,25 studs, 70mm long. They come from the motor mounting of the classic FIAT 500, in case you are looking for some. They need to be shortened on the short end:
Attachment 232210

And then it fits:
Attachment 232211

I did notice the studs are a bit long on the other end. If you don't have long sockets on your torque wrench, you need to shorten the studs on the other end, too:
Attachment 236744

I also noticed the casting is not flat at the point where the nut should sit. Best thing would be to machine it flat on a mill, some might try it with an angle grinder, I will take an old fashioned hadn file and create a nice flat spot for the nut to sit. I saw this on several points, you really need to check and correct this when you want to properly fit this.
Attachment 236745

Hugo

Mine didn't come with the relieve cuts, like for instance the tacotaco one shown on page one of this thread. Should I make those?

Cheers,

Hugo

Ultimately your choice, however given the fact things expand and contract under heat it makes sense to me why they're there. A lot of the guys I've seen who make manifolds from scratch do it, that's reason enough for me. :)