Airesearch m11 turbo
05-29-2007, 09:05 PM
#1
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Airesearch m11 turbo
I can get one in good working cond. for free, is it worth it? can it be adapted to a miata? Can you guys give me more info on the turbo? thanks!
It looks like the a/r is 48/60? Is that true?
My shop teacher says he thinks it was from a 2.3L t bird. the compressor is about 6 inches in diameter, maybe alitle smaller. Its a pretty small turbo.
Ill get some pictures tommorow.
It looks like the a/r is 48/60? Is that true?
My shop teacher says he thinks it was from a 2.3L t bird. the compressor is about 6 inches in diameter, maybe alitle smaller. Its a pretty small turbo.
Ill get some pictures tommorow.
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05-30-2007, 03:54 PM
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Alright, here is all the info along with pictures. The inner diamater (I.D) of the intake of the compressor is 43 mm. The I.D of the outlet of the compressor side is 39 mm, and it says .48.
The I.D for the intake for the turbine side (where the manifold bolts to) is 49mm by 38 mm. It says .63.
Finally, from left to right, the bolts for the manifold are (from the center of the holes) 73 mm apart, and from top to bottom, they are 40mm apart.
Oh, the tag on the turbo says:
Made in USA Garrett
R0R0356R 10-05
10031027
F/OH Turbocharger
So, are there any manifolds that will fit? it is worth using? Is it just oil cooled? Anyone know anything about it? thanks a ton guys!
The I.D for the intake for the turbine side (where the manifold bolts to) is 49mm by 38 mm. It says .63.
Finally, from left to right, the bolts for the manifold are (from the center of the holes) 73 mm apart, and from top to bottom, they are 40mm apart.
Oh, the tag on the turbo says:
Made in USA Garrett
R0R0356R 10-05
10031027
F/OH Turbocharger
So, are there any manifolds that will fit? it is worth using? Is it just oil cooled? Anyone know anything about it? thanks a ton guys!
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05-30-2007, 05:33 PM
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Boost Czar
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well, yeah i the t25s on the sunbird were water cooled....there was a t2 on the sunbird non-water cooled.
I dont suspect it's off a T-bird since those I believe are only T3s.
the good thing is it has a "larger" A/R on the turbine...it should be good for a bit of boost, but it will probably run out of steam in high rpms...
I dont suspect it's off a T-bird since those I believe are only T3s.
the good thing is it has a "larger" A/R on the turbine...it should be good for a bit of boost, but it will probably run out of steam in high rpms...
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05-30-2007, 05:58 PM
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well, yeah i the t25s on the sunbird were water cooled....there was a t2 on the sunbird non-water cooled.
I dont suspect it's off a T-bird since those I believe are only T3s.
the good thing is it has a "larger" A/R on the turbine...it should be good for a bit of boost, but it will probably run out of steam in high rpms...
I dont suspect it's off a T-bird since those I believe are only T3s.
the good thing is it has a "larger" A/R on the turbine...it should be good for a bit of boost, but it will probably run out of steam in high rpms...
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05-30-2007, 06:10 PM
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timing controller, bipes for $225. boost gauge for about $60. bov ($50 used bosch bov off ebay) that should be about all you need, at 5psi you won't need injectors, but at 7psi you would, 1.8 injectors would be perfect, which you can pick up for about $60-$100 (depending on whether they're cleaned, flow matched, etc...) you'll need to upgrade your clutch and most likely your differential with a stronger 1.8 version or RX7 T2 version. both clutch and diff are optional, but if you don't do either, your clutch will slip until you replace it, then your differential will blow once you've replaced your clutch. don't forget oil lines, those are cheapish, but don't ignore the $50-$100 they'll cost, depending on how you set it up.
that should be about everything you need, others will chime in with things I'm forgetting.
that should be about everything you need, others will chime in with things I'm forgetting.
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05-30-2007, 06:43 PM
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timing controller, bipes for $225. boost gauge for about $60. bov ($50 used bosch bov off ebay) that should be about all you need, at 5psi you won't need injectors, but at 7psi you would, 1.8 injectors would be perfect, which you can pick up for about $60-$100 (depending on whether they're cleaned, flow matched, etc...) you'll need to upgrade your clutch and most likely your differential with a stronger 1.8 version or RX7 T2 version. both clutch and diff are optional, but if you don't do either, your clutch will slip until you replace it, then your differential will blow once you've replaced your clutch. don't forget oil lines, those are cheapish, but don't ignore the $50-$100 they'll cost, depending on how you set it up.
that should be about everything you need, others will chime in with things I'm forgetting.
that should be about everything you need, others will chime in with things I'm forgetting.
Do I really need a timing controller, what if I just set my timeing to 6 or 8 degrees? Ill run 5 psi then, untill I can get better injectors. I have a new exedy clutch and fidanza flywheel, it should hold with only a 30 to 40 hp increase.
Ok, here is my list so far:
Pipeing (any reccommendation on what kind? we have a pipe bender at school.)
down pipe
manifold
oil lines (how should I route it?)
fuel pressure regulator
boost gauge
recirclelating BOV
??
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05-30-2007, 06:51 PM
#14
well, yeah i the t25s on the sunbird were water cooled....there was a t2 on the sunbird non-water cooled.
I dont suspect it's off a T-bird since those I believe are only T3s.
the good thing is it has a "larger" A/R on the turbine...it should be good for a bit of boost, but it will probably run out of steam in high rpms...
I dont suspect it's off a T-bird since those I believe are only T3s.
the good thing is it has a "larger" A/R on the turbine...it should be good for a bit of boost, but it will probably run out of steam in high rpms...
Exhaust: .48 with standard in/out
intake: .60 with 2 bolt in and standard out if I recall
Not a bad turbo, and one I might yet decide to use instead of this ******* chrysler "thing" I've got.
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05-30-2007, 09:00 PM
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Alright, im pretty sure its a t25. Question, will http://www.istoreparts.com/megan-rac...a-p-13570.html that fit?
for some reason, the bolt patteren on the downpipe looks different
for some reason, the bolt patteren on the downpipe looks different
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05-30-2007, 10:22 PM
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garrett and mitsu made two different T2x flanges, they are not compatiable with each other....
then you have the problem with the turbine outlet....it's flanged different then most I've seen...I could be wrong but I don't see you finding a DP that will just bolt up to it.
In all honesty your best bet will be to send it to Corky, have him bolt the thing to his manifold (which will fit) and then have him flange one of his DPs to your turbo. There will be no extra cost (aside from shipping). This will be your best route, a proven turbo and DP. If you later want to upgrade the turbo then all that will need to be done it reworking the DP, which is no worries.
then you have the problem with the turbine outlet....it's flanged different then most I've seen...I could be wrong but I don't see you finding a DP that will just bolt up to it.
In all honesty your best bet will be to send it to Corky, have him bolt the thing to his manifold (which will fit) and then have him flange one of his DPs to your turbo. There will be no extra cost (aside from shipping). This will be your best route, a proven turbo and DP. If you later want to upgrade the turbo then all that will need to be done it reworking the DP, which is no worries.
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05-30-2007, 11:02 PM
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garrett and mitsu made two different T2x flanges, they are not compatiable with each other....
then you have the problem with the turbine outlet....it's flanged different then most I've seen...I could be wrong but I don't see you finding a DP that will just bolt up to it.
In all honesty your best bet will be to send it to Corky, have him bolt the thing to his manifold (which will fit) and then have him flange one of his DPs to your turbo. There will be no extra cost (aside from shipping). This will be your best route, a proven turbo and DP. If you later want to upgrade the turbo then all that will need to be done it reworking the DP, which is no worries.
then you have the problem with the turbine outlet....it's flanged different then most I've seen...I could be wrong but I don't see you finding a DP that will just bolt up to it.
In all honesty your best bet will be to send it to Corky, have him bolt the thing to his manifold (which will fit) and then have him flange one of his DPs to your turbo. There will be no extra cost (aside from shipping). This will be your best route, a proven turbo and DP. If you later want to upgrade the turbo then all that will need to be done it reworking the DP, which is no worries.
. Now do I have this right?
Ill send the turbo to corky, get one of his manifolds and have him make me a flange for the downpipe, and put it on one of his downpipes.
then ill need to plumb the turbo to connect to the throttle body. What if I used the stock plastic crossover pipe? or would that burst? what would I do with all the hoses connected to the stock crossover pipe?
connect the afm and intake to the turbo.
get a bosch bypass valve, connect it near the throttle body, and have it recirculate to inbetween the turbo and afm.
drill and tap hole in the oil pan, and connect the oil drain (never have the hose go up). connect the oil feed by the dipstick.
now for the fuel pressure regulator. If I get a vortec one, what is the ratio I should use?
then connect the boost gauge. Where should I connect it too to get the best reading?
Set the timeing to 6 degrees.
Run and check for detionation.
Do I have this right? please modify it as you see fit, and try to answer all the questions. Sorry im being such a pain guys!
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