Tilt's turbo install
 

Here's my 1995 1.8L turbo install. I've installed 3 other DIY turbos before this one, but this was my first Miata install. This was much more time consuming!

My goal is to build a semi-reliable car that sees track time (HPDE and AutoX) and be as fast as an S2000 in a straight line. I'm targetting around 180-190whp, at least to start with. I can always add more power if I change my mind.

Thank you to all contributors on the forum. You have been very helpful.



http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/01.jpg
Upgraded ACT XTSS clutch for the extra power.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/02.jpg
Upgraded radiator for better cooling. (I would have gone with Godspeed had I known about it at the time.)

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/03.jpg
MSPNP for engine management.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/04.jpg
Autometer Gauges.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/05.jpg
PLX wideband.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/06.jpg
RX7 550cc injectors cleaned and flow tested. Thanks injector-rehab.com !

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/07.jpg
Header removed. EGR was also removed and blocked off.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/08.jpg
oil feed fitting - The fitting is M10x1.5 to -4AN male.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/09.jpg
oil feed - Connected to the oil port is: -4AN to -4AN 90 degree fitting -4AN x -4AN x 1/8NPT T-fitting the 1/8NPT connects to a 1/8NPT female to 1/2NPT male fitting the -4AN connect to a -4AN female to -3AN male converter. Connected to the brass fitting is a 1/2NPT male to 1/8NPT female converter. The oil temp sensor is 1/8NPT and screws into the top of that fitting.The -3AN fitting is connected to a 28" -3AN steel braided oil line hose. Oil line runs up along the dip stick and curves along the brake booster and to the strut tower then curves to the turbo oil feed.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/10.jpg
Here's my super awesome BEGI bellengineering.com T25 manifold with M10 studs. I believe it is to help prevent the studs from vibrating loose. I decided to go without EGR. You can also see how the oil line runs. It's covered in plastic sheathing since metal hoses will eat into other metals over time.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/11.jpg
turbo - mocked up for test fitting. The studs are so big that the exhaust housing on the turbo would not fit. I had to drill out the holes. The turbo I'm using is a Garrett T25 off a Nissan S13 SR20DET. You can see I installed a flexible radiator hose down low. It is a Dayco 1 1/4" x 23" long hose. The larger flexible radiator hose you see sticking up is part of the intercooler piping!

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/12.jpg
oil drain - Having completed this I would recommend drilling a few mm to the left. The oil drain pickup tube is behind the hole towards the right. I cleared it without problems, but just letting you know as a word of caution.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/13.jpg
oil pan - Here is my drill bit contraption I came up with. You need to find a way to extend the length of the drill if you have power steering and AC. I used a punch tool to help keep the drill bit centered and used smaller drill bits to start the hole. Be sure to tape off the tip of the final drill bit so you do not drill too deep.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/14.jpg
oil pan - Here's how I tapped the pan. Use plenty of grease.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/15.jpg
oil drain installed

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/16.jpg
downpipe - Please excuse the mess. Here is my ghetto fabulous downpipe tack welded for test fit. I used exhaust parts laying around in the garage.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/17.jpg
downpipe completed - I painted it with high temp spray paint to help against rust. It is actually a two-piece design that are joined using a slip joint.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/18.jpg
downpipe installed - I will probably go back and heat wrap the downpipe.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/19.jpg
and here it is under the car - It bolts to the stock cat.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/20.jpg
O2 sensor - I ran the wideband through the shifter hole and plugs into the downpipe.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/21.jpg
Intercooler - I went with 2.5" cold side. The coupler on the throttle body is a 45 degree bend connected to a 90 degree aluminized steel pipe. You can see I drilled a hole for the IAT (intake air temp) sensor. You want the sensor to be close to the intake manifold. Basically it should read temps that the engine is being fed. I also plumbed the ISC valve into the charge piping here.

At the bottom of the pipe a 45 degree coupler is connected that points down. I used a straight piece of pipe and immediately connected a 90 degree coupler.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/22.jpg
Cold Side - Under the car now, I used a 90 degree coupler and a 90 degree pipe. I used a 90 degree reducing coupler to fit the 2" inlet on my intercooler. As you can see I cut a hole in the plastic shroud. This completes the cold side.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/23.jpg
I replaced the pipe above with a BOV.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/24.jpg
Intercooler - Here's how I mounted my 28 x 5.5 x 2.5" ebay intercooler. I used 1" aluminum strips, bent it into shape I wanted and cut it to size. Since I have AC and power steering it was a huge pain to get it installed.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/25.jpg
Drier - You have to bend the drier as far to the left as you can. To accomplish this you have to remove the metal drier holder that's connected to the condenser.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/26.jpg
Intercooler - Here's how I mounted the intercooler on the bottom side. I used 1" wide aluminum strips and bent it into the shapes I liked and bolted them down as shown. The intercooler just barely fits the stock plastic shroud.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/27.jpg
Hot side - I decided to go with 2 inch hot side due to the space limitations. There is literally nowhere to route with PS and AC in the way. I used a 90 degree coupler from the intercooler.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/28.jpg
hot side - I used a flexible radiator hose for the charge piping! It is 53224 Goodyear 2"x24" hose. I also had to replace the stock lower radiator hose with a Dayco 1 1/4" x 23" radiator hose for extra space.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/29.jpg
hot side - Here is where the flex pipe enters the engine bay.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/30.jpg
From the radiator hose charge pipeing connected is a 90 degree coupler, then a straight pipe, then another 90 to the turbo outlet.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/31.jpg
Air intake - I used the turbo stock intake arm and used a 45 degree coupler to a short piece of piping. It's a K&N filter RU-4950. It is 2.5" inlet 6" base, 5" diameter top, and 5.5" tall. It fits but just barely. If you are wondering, the filter mesh is bent because I still had it wrapped in plastic (silly me) and started the engine and the whole filter collapsed!

Looks good!

I give you a ghetto-factor score of 10. Nice install (and post). :bigtu:

I'm going to give that split loom on the oil feed line about 30 minutes. I had some at the very top edge of the fire wall and it lasted about that long - with a heat shield on the turbo. It was like super stiff heat shrink tubing after. :giggle:

100% awesomeness

looks good...not really crazy about all the piping going everywhere, id try to clean it up/make it a bit shorter...just my .02....but overall, nice

Nobody says it has to be pretty. Good work man. Im curious how well air will flow thru that ridged hose though.
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Pics of the intercooler from the front plz.

looking good mate

It did cross my mind that heat might be an issue ;). I guess you confirmed it for me... it'll be on my list of things to revise!

Nice build! :bigtu:

Everything is lookin good!

Vash-

Agreed. What I had planned and what I ended up with were a bit different.
I've had my share of blown charge pipes between track sessions and it's no fun. I'll give this a shot and if it's a problem, I'll revisit it with fewer points of failure in mind.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/32.jpg
Not a very clear shot but you get the idea.

your bit extension for tapping the pan would have helped me a lot!

Nice work.

your bit extension for tapping the pan would have helped me a lot!

Nice work.

Quick Question, where did you get the cold side OUT adapter with the three holes?

Also did you clock the center of the turbo so that the oil out points down?

Thanks for the compliments, guys. I've always been a function over form kind of car enthusiast. ;)

I bought mine here:

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=GTBB

looks great man! as long as it works I dont care what it looks like!

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/02.jpg
http://www.perficient.com/images/spotImage_purina.jpg

your shit is going to overheat like whoa. Get ready to chop up the bumper. :cry:

I have (almost) piece by piece that exact same setup. I've got a great fuel/timing table for your MS I can send you to get you started with decent numbers if you've got access to 93oct. 12psi=200whp and you can drive circles around S2000's.

A long time ago I removed the black plastic undertray and the air-funneler in the nose (running OEM auto-radiator) and have never had an overheating problem on the street... even in 110* Virginia heat. I've never had it on an open track so I can't comment on long-term heat issues, but your big radiator is a huge upgrade from mine. Get that black plastic shit out of there in any case.

Sweet. I'll send you a PM... very interested in the timing table. There's 93 octane all over here in Texas.

Just wondering did remove the black plastic mouthpiece because it was causing problems? I kept it installed because I figured it would help with airflow to the radiator.

Oh noes! I really do not want to do that. I'll try the reverse mini hood scoop ala m2cupcar before I cut the bumper! An oil cooler is on my list of things to add as well.

I had the stock crossover pipe ('93) for a few months before I got an intercooler, and if I revved up the engine while looking at the small accordian section it bulbed out A LOT. I put some zip ties around it to help keep its shape, but it was also expanding while in boost. $5 says that flex hose will do the same. awesome pics and descriptions, you'll help a lot of people with your explaination of all the plumbing hardware you used. I wish I would have thought of using your method for the oil temp sensor, I just drilled and tapped the drain plug.

Yeah this is basicaly the setup that I have sitting at home....on a shelf...not doing anything...because I'm too lazy and waiting to buy the MSpNp.

Nice write up.

Oh and did you clock any part of the turbo at all?

Thanks. Sorry, missed your second question from earlier. Yes, I had to clock the turbo! Here's how I did it:

Disconnect wastegate
Loosen bolts on exhaust housing side. The bolts are 1/2 SAE BTW. Don't use 13mm to bust them loose the first time, or you will risk stripping the heads.
Install turbo onto your car. Clock until oil drain is near vertical and tighten bolts.
Use the "broom stick" method to clock the compressor side. I actually used a 2 ft pipe stuck it into the compressor outlet. If you are worried about gouging the aluminum, use something wooden. I did not have problems though. I looked everywhere for snap ring pliers and there were none big enough so I went with this method. It feels brutal but not bad at all once you've tried it out.
Reconnect wastegate
Done!

Thanks. I know what you are saying, it crossed my mind too. But, radiator hoses normally see 12-16psi of pressure (depending on your radiator cap). My turbo is good for about 12-13psi before it's out of it's efficiency range so based on that I think I should be ok.

Cool thank you tilt. This might make me more willing to go and intall everything on my car now.....maybe :)

My IC tubing had some peices that were unuseable. I bought some goodyear tubing that looks the exact same. It is rated for 275 degrees and it has a steel wire imbedded in the spiral.
I hope that it doesn't expand. But like you said it is rated for more psi. Otherwise it would slip off a car with 13-16psi from the water system.
If the ridges don't slow it down. They may help. Tornado's intake systems and throttle body spaces have a swirl design to spin the air into the intake.
LS1's from the factory also have this swirl design implemented into the intake system. It draws out a few more ponies in NA motors. But either way it goes, I'm sure it will be a major improvement away from stock.

did you put some pipe dope or some teflon tape on that oil return fitting into the pan? in the pic it doesn't look like it, but maybe that pic was just taken of the fitup and not the final install. if you didn't paste or tape the threads on that fitting it will surely leak.

Will teflon tape hold up at those temps? I've seen it melt as lower temps.

i would not use pipe dope or teflon tape. I used copper gasket sealant from autozone on my oil return line on my turbo integra gsr and 2 copper washers one on the inside and one on the outside. Its been 3 years and 50k miles and still no leak you will not need the copper washers in my opinion. I needed them due to fact an fitting had a nut on back and when completely tightened down was still loose.

I think you have done a pretty good job on this install. My original hot side ic piping job the first time I did a diy turbo kit was not very good. I'm pretty interested in how you hotside holds up. Let us know how it turns out.

I'm in the process of addressing heat issues I may encounter. Here's what I've done so far...

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/34.jpg
Did a quick test fit of the alamoautosport turbo blanket. I still need to trim where the blanket comes in contact with the wastegate arm. It's a good fit apart from that.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/35.jpg
Plugged the coolant hard line and rerouted the heater hose to the upper radiator hose.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/36.jpg
Coolant hose goes to this adapter I got from advanced-autosports.com. You can't see it but I installed a water temp sensor on the opposite side.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/37.jpg
Made a home despot run and decided to fab up a fan shroud.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/38.jpg
Went with a pair of high flow 12" slim fans from vsracing.net. If you are wondering why they look different, it's because I bought one of them about 3 years ago. Same vendor though. ;) I sealed off the shroud with weather stripping also from the home depot.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/39.jpg
Fans and shroud installed. Yay.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/33.jpg
Turbo Kitty! Meow

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/40.jpg
Heat wrapped my downpipe.

http://tilt.sexyracing.com/miata/turbo/41.jpg
Installed. The heat wrap smokes quite a bit during break in. I've heard it takes a few days to stop, yikes.

Just a small update... I participated in a practice autox to test the car and iron out any issues.

It ran fine other than having a tendency to overheat. The IAT would also heatsoak and cause hard starts. For those that were wondering about the radiator hose used as charge piping, it is holding up fine so far. I was able to run about 4-6 runs before it would start to overheat then had to park the car for a while (Texas sun, 95 degree weather). I'll relocate the IAT and add more cooling mods soon.

I'm still running 7PSI so nothing spectacular. EBC will be hooked up soon.

Congrats. Any idea why it was overheating? Lots of work on the rad and fans...just wondering.

I have a hunch - If you look at the way I have my fan shroud installed, there is nothing dividing the radiator and condensor fans. The stock fans actually use 2 separate shrouds but mine is just one big shroud with no divider between fans.

I had my wiring setup to trigger only the single radiator fan (just like stock) so i think instead of pulling all air from the bumper mouth, it was sucking air from the non-running(condenser) fan opening on the engine side. Due to my oversight, I think it was circulating hot engine air. Fail. :o

So, currently I am trying to figure out how to wire up the parallel fan mod to the MSPNP. I'll try that. Next in line is an aftermarket oil cooler and extractor hood if I still have issues.

that answers my question and your problem- IF MS goes to ground on fan control, you can use the wiring below with AC staying stock and the "thermoswitch/ground" going to the MS.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t.../fanwiring.jpg

Very nice install!

Would you mind me asking how much your total cost was on this setup?

Thanks. I didn't really count up while I was building but I'll guestimate around 1800 for just the necessary parts to get it turbo'd (injectors, ecu, turbo, manifold, dp, oil feed/drain, intercooler, piping, couplers.).

It's actually much more if you consider the supporting misc. parts (radiator, fan, clutch, injector cleaning, gauges, insulation, other cooling mods, etc.) and tools. Also, I had a couple freebies from stuff lying around in the garage from previous turbo projects so that made things a little cheaper than they would've been.

Thanks. I ended up cutting the condenser fan wire at the harness just before the ecu and spliced it into the cooling fan wire. Each fan has its own relay but both are triggered by the cooling fan's ground wire that's controlled by the ecu.