Time for my very own build thread! (oh god please help me)
The finances are slowly coming together, I'm doing the final bits of research, and D-day is just under a month away. The goal is to start the install during the first week of June. so it's time to wrap up the loose ends and get the final bits ordered. :)
The car: '94 1.8, 130,000 miles The setup (already ordered): T25 .48/.49 turbo eBay front mount coldside IC piping Bosch BOV w/ check valve 460cc Rx7 injectors (already installed): ACT 1.8 HD, OEM flywheel, 6-puck disc Oil temp, boost, EGT, Innovate WBo2 gauges Aluminum 2" radiator The rest of the setup (not yet ordered, open for suggestions): DIYAutotune MSPNP for '94, when it comes out, with: -GM 4-bar barometric IAT sensor -KnocksenseMS BEGi exhaust manifold and 2.75" stainless DP Carsound 3" high-flow cat Enthuza 3" stainless turbo catback Hotside intercooler piping from Treadstone Performance Oil/water lines from TheBandit MBC from someone. Suggestions? The goal is as much power as possible (hopefully 210-220rwhp) on 12psi and piss-water 91 octane, and 240+rwhp on 15psi and race gas. The focus of the setup is really on spool: I want boost onset under 2000rpm with 10-12psi at 3000rpm. Water injection is not out of the picture for the future to combat the heat of spinning the small T25 that hard, but first I need to get the setup running and tuned on straight boost. What am I missing? What should I look into? |
Make sure that we get some good pics of the build!
|
I'm happy with my ACT HD as well as my BEGi mani and dp. I bought a $15 voodoo ebay mbc last night since samnavy said he was happy with his. (You have to trust a guy with a name like Sam)
Edit: +1 on lots of pics |
Looks good to me. Ask Corky if he'll swage your dp out to 3" for you. They seem to love custom stuff, so I doubt it will be a problem, and that will make things easier for you. Also have him weld in a bung in the mani for your EGT probe, and specify your WB bung in the dp to be pre flex section and FACING UP. For whatever reason, they keep putting the o2 bungs on the bottom of the pipe ???
As far as MBC's go. I really like the Forge that I got from member PAT!. The ratcheting action is nice and precise. Easier to work with than the FM MBC it replaced, and more precise and stable with the ratcheting locks. (with the FM you have to remove the tube to spin the body to retension the spring, then reconnect the tube when you're done). Also, maybe DIY will develop EBC with the MS. |
you said bung
|
He wants his bung to point up
|
I'll buy your 6ul's to give you that extra cash you need ;)
|
Originally Posted by SamS
(Post 111275)
He wants his bung to point up
that only works if you mount it correctly... |
YESSSSSSSS more of us.
|
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=280114048537
Bought that last night. Injectors are on their way back. Next thing to get sorted is the oil and water lines. Can anyone tell me what sized fittings a standard T25 from Garrett would use? :( |
Should be a 7/16 inverted flare fitting at the turbo.
It is a Nissan T25 isn't it? |
Originally Posted by cjernigan
(Post 112343)
Should be a 7/16 inverted flare fitting at the turbo.
It is a Nissan T25 isn't it? |
7/16 i.f. should work for your oil feed, i'm working with a mitsu t25 (smaller trim than the nissan flanged t25s) and a 7/16 i.f. worked perfecto
|
All rightie. My MBC arrived today, so the next thing on my list is to figure out the hotside intercooler piping. It it absolutely necessary, highly recommended, or just a good idea to clock the compressor so the outlet faces down instead of up? I would love to avoid taking apart a brand new turbo to drill it for the wastegate mounting bracket. I'm hoping the BEGi manifold will situate it low enough that I can just use a 90 and come out straight, then use a couple of 45s to get the piping down to the side of the intercooler.
Second thing is the PCV valve. I've heard several users say to just remove it, and several say that the 323 GTX PCV valve is what I want. What's the deal with it, and if I need one, where can I find one? |
In case you didn't realize, there are no pics in your posts.....
|
I know. I'm ordering the manifold and downpipe on Monday. I just want to know whether anyone's NOT clocked a T25 and just used 90s and 45s to route the piping to the intercooler, rather than clock it and then use a single 45 to achieve the same thing.
|
3 Attachment(s)
Looks like akaryrye is, so it's definitely possible. I'm just going to go that route. I doubt I'll have lag issues with a .48/.49 turbo. :)
I just got a big paycheck ($900) so I'm going to order the downpipe and manifold from BEGi on Monday. They sent me a few photos so I could mark for EGT and wideband bungs. The EGT bung looks pretty obvious: Attachment 216490 but I've heard that I want the wideband bung horizontal, not vertical. Where, exactly, though, is the best place to stick that in the downpipe? BEGI sent me these photos to mark: Attachment 216491 Attachment 216492 |
i would go somewhere right before that flex joint for the wideband bung. because you're getting the wastegate gases also. i'm sure someone will disagree with me on that... but oh well, thats about where mine is, and it works fine. it should be within about 2 feet or so of the turbine also. plus you wont be lagging with an exhaust ar such as those ones. mines .70 and its like a switch. then again, its a completely different turbo :ugh2: and i believe for like 40bucks or less you can make your own lines from royal brass in san jose, they even have braided lines if you want to go fancy. i just use the normal working mans high temp blue silicone hose with a 5/8" hydraulic pushloc hose as my return. i use normal coolant hoses for coolant, duh. cheap effective and local, and they will also custom make you oil lines if you need. oh yeah, arent the rx7 injectors high impedance? guess that doesnt matter all that much. a manual boost controller will get the job done but they dont protect from spikes and the boost is a little tricky to move around without test runs. i wonder what that t25 is capable of moving (cfm wise). it may be out of its efficiency range at the higher boost areas. but it'll definately spool with the quickness. okay, i'll shut up now.
|
Ordered up the manifold and DP yesterday. BEGI was able to step it up from a 2.75" at the end of the DP (right before where the wastegate collector merges in, back to the flex piece and the flange) to a 3". I'll be picking up a standard 3" cat this week and ordering the Enthuza 3" turbo exhaust next week.
Only one major thing left, and that's the ECU. Depending on timing, I'll either be running a PNP MS (preferred) or parallel-wiring it. After that, it's just nit-picky stuff: hotside intercooler piping, figuring out connectors for the PCV valve, IAC, and BOV (running VTA with a check valve for now), and oil/water lines. Install starts next week. I'll post pictures. :D |
Get the oil and water lines on order. They can sometimes take a while as the 7/16 to -4AN fittings are sometimes out of stock. Just a fair warning as it took 3 weeks for my supplier to get them in last time he ran out.
|
I was either going to use Bandit from the forums, or Royal Brass in SJ as Juhani suggested. Cjernigan, what were the other sizes on your T25? I'm betting most of them are the same.
|
|
Doesn't he live in california though, not sure the test pipe would fly.
|
asking about bung location, not whether or not we are thinking about a cat or not.
|
Oil feed was 7/16, drain required an adapter plate i already had that accepted 1/2 NPT fitings. The coolant passages were something weird and instead of buying them online or something similar i just went to the hardware store. Look for compression nut fittings for 3/8" hardline. Take the turbo with you and just test fit them till you figure it out cause I don't know off hand.
You do plan to use hardline extentions right? My bad on the photo, wasn't sure what the focus was to be. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 116259)
asking about bung location, not whether or not we are thinking about a cat or not.
I'm still confused on the oil/water lines. Adaptor block? Photos would be awesome. :ugh2: |
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/gr...fla-010-01.jpg
That is the flange i used on mine for the oil drain on mine. I had it from a previous project, you might be able to get it cheaper somewhere else? Are you going to need some sort of feed adapter? Do you plan to T off the oil sender or are you going to use some sort of filter sandwich? |
Swung by Royal Brass in SJ today. The answer I got was a little confusing. I'm pretty sure he said that it was a 7/16" inverted flare, but then he said it was a #5 fitting which equated to a 5-16, something like #5 fitting, 16 threads per inch. Can someone clarify this?
Also, my turbo has a fitting that looks remarkably like that drain adaptor already in the center section. I am going to have to clock the center section to get the oil drain to point downwards. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 115023)
I know. I'm ordering the manifold and downpipe on Monday. I just want to know whether anyone's NOT clocked a T25 and just used 90s and 45s to route the piping to the intercooler, rather than clock it and then use a single 45 to achieve the same thing.
|
1 Attachment(s)
Well fuck.
Attachment 216457 Looks like I'm going to have to figure out how to clock the hotside so that the oil drain faces down. I just loosen the four bolts that hold the center to the exhaust housing and spin the turbo, right? |
Yes just loosen them and turn it.
Don't use that 90* elbow. Get a different fitting that fits in there that points straight down. It should be a 7/16 inverted flare, no idea what the #5 thing is he speaks of. |
Clocked the turbo tonight. Pointed the oil drain down, as well as the compressor outlet. Fuck, that snap ring is big and difficult to remove. Re-drilled the compressor housing for the wastegate and got it all hooked up properly. The final bits are intercooler piping and oil/water lines. TheBandit, if you read this, I'm eager to get a set of your lines ordered up. If I can't get ahold of you, I'm going to have to piece it together myself.
What has everyone else used for oil/water lines on their cars? Fittings, lengths, hose sizes? |
2 Attachment(s)
Answering my own questions, for the next newbie that searches and finds this thread. Oil and water lines:
M10x1.50 male to -3AN male fitting, $17.50 from paragonperformance.com -3AN female to -3AN male 90deg fitting, $17.22 from ANPlumbing.com -3AN female to -3AN female 24" stainless steel feed hose, $12.88 at Summit Racing -3AN male to -3AN female 90deg fitting, $17.22 from ANPlumbing.com -3AN male to 7/16-24 inverted flare male fitting, $12.99 a pair from Summit Racing Oil return: (you probably need a flange and a gasket, my turbo doesn't need a flange.) turbo flange to 5/8" hose barb, $??? from your local pneumatic supply store 2ft of 5/8" high-temp silicone hose, $16 from ATPTurbo.com 1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb fitting, $9 from ATPTurbo.com 23/32" drill bit and 1/2"NPT tap, $?? from your local hardware store Water lines: fittings from your turbo (usually 7/16-24 inverted flare) to 5/16" hose barbs 5/16" heater hose (optional) Thermo-Tec Thermo-Sleeve, 1/4" to 1/2" size, $14.95 per 3ft length at Summit or like $45 for 12ft of it. 3ft might be enough, two lengths of 3ft will be plenty. There you have it. Around $130 not including the NPT tap and drill bit and the fittings to go to the two water fittings and the oil drain on the turbo. Hopefully I can keep it below $175 or so, since that's what I budgeted for this in the first place. DP and Manifold arriving shortly. I'll post more photos once everything is a little more together. Attachment 216387 Valve cover (3 coats of krinkle black, 2 coats of high-temp clearcoat. Used a wire brush on my drill to take the paint off the letters): Attachment 216388 |
And....?
|
I'll snap some photos for you later, Nick. I sort of forgot about this thread.
|
AND...? That thing flys, thanks for the ride.
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:24 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands