TURBO basic Config
 

Hi folks!!

Project Car: Miata 1994-1.8L-BP-stock.

I`m planning on installing a custom turbo kit.
The target here is to get a Reliable, Cheap, street-able configurations.

Here is my idea:
1. T3 45 trim turbo (from a Volvo 740 turbo) witch I have.
2. Modified stock manifold
3. 6 psi boost configuration.
4. OEM ECU.
5. OEM INYECTORS5.
6. Blow off valve

I have done some research and I know most people use Greddy, Apexi, etc for engine management and have great results.
I have a couple of questions:
1) Have someone done a set up as the one I intend?
2) If so, please tell me if it works properly.

Also

Wish is the easiest and cheapest engine managment for this configuration?

Cheap,Fast,Reliable. Pick 2.

Ok

Nope, not going to happen. Unless you mean cutting the runners off and making a manifold from scratch. Then you might as well just call up JGS and buy a flange to save yourself some time.

You could do it that way and use bandaids. Read the DIY FAQ before I fuck your face.

You didn't do your research very well. Most people with miatas use Megasquirt. Some use AEM/Hydra/Adaptronic/Tec but the majority of people on this forum are running megasquirt. Bandaids are a surefire way to have a car that causes headaches and is slow as piss.

1.Yes, I'm sure someone out there has tried.
2.No.

1 ok
2 No need unless you have ~300whp+ or shooting for that range.
3 Gay
4 MS or Fail
5 MS with Rx7 460 will max out your stock motor (~250whp)
6 At 6psi, no really a necesity, more for show.

Second post. When it comes to engine management, do it right the first time. I would NOT spend money on band-aids. A MS can be found for cheap, and is a fully programable standaole ECU.

If you want insight go through the built threads and see for yourself. MT.net members dont spoon feed much.

I'd like to point out that given the nature and quality of your first post, I was nicer than usual in my reply.

Do 2 things.

1. Make an intro thread in the <INTRO> section
2. Stop asking questions. You obviously have a very limited knowledge of forced induction systems. You can learn a lot from this forum, but nobody is going to spoon feed it to you after this. Spend the next month or two reading as much as you possibly can, then once you have a firm grasp, start thinking about buying parts.

What about the Voodoo Box from Flying Miata?

How much does a PNP MS costs?

Another useless thread. has this become a dump? I know economy is bad but damn people learn to read.

dude read the faq!!!!!!!!!!

PNP is $700, you can make your on MS for about $300 or have it made.

You are right i dont know much from Miata FI
Because it`s so different from my VW GTI with 320 WHP.

This is why i`m here asking some real experts in the subject!!:idea:

And we answered you: Everything you need to know is in the DIY FAQ. Read it.

same principle

what software is the VW?

Your point? You sound not very well informed, and rather ignorant, about the subject.

a.) dyno or it didn't happen.
b.) pics of you doing anything beyond applying APC vinyl to the car to get it to 320whp, or it didn't happen. (please omit the pics of you and your vdub pals applying lube to each others' backsides...)


at least be honest with us if you're going to be ignorant. nobody uses those, and anyone who does, certainly does NOT have great results.

#1 most common worst fucking mistake ever in forced induction is to start a build around a part you already have.

First decision is what you want the car to do when you're done building it that it doesn't do now... in this case, how much power do you want to make.

Second decision is how much money you want to spend, including parts, install, mistakes, downtime, etc...

Third decision is to narrow down which (not witch) parts get you the results you're looking for within your budget.

Fourth thing is to start buying.

If you're not doing it in the above order, you're going to be endlessly disappointed every single step of the way. In the end, if you actually manage to build a setup like you're proposing, you're going to make about 150whp at 6psi. It will spool like shit, get horrible mileage, be prone to breaking every time you start it, and generally be a piece of shit.

You'd be better off and make more power by just swapping in a stock '99 motor with an exhintake cam, adjustable camgears, and gutted manifold.

The FM Voodoo box is a fueling solution for 6psi. It has been proven to be maxed out before 8psi (intercooled), and offers no timing capability. It also requires you to hack the factory wiring to the ECU.

Second to last, pics of your VW or go away.

Lastly, this forum has been designed over the years by very smart people to spoon-feed NOOBs everything they need to know about the ins/outs of turbocharging a Miata. If you're not going to read the sticky's (seriously, reading all of them might take you 10 minutes) in the technical forums to educate yourself, you're going to get shit on. No need to get defensive or tell us we're a bunch of assholes, just go read up, make yourself smart, and follow the advice above about your decisionmaking process.

haha the VW must be a figment of his imagination. waiting on the "i don't have pics I sold it"

LOL at this thread

Alejimos, welcome. There is much good advice here. Read some build threads from different members to see what works well on our cars.

Please put your location in your profile so that others near you might help you.

Unless of course that "part" you already have is a miata :brain:

Yes, please do this so we can personally come over and tell you to read the FAQ.:laugh:

Come on guys, he was very nice and polite. And I think we should be nice, too. He is sincere in his requests for help.

The cheapest full feature ECU is MegaSquirt, and it is a good device. The easiest might be an AEM EMS, just because so many tuners of other cars are already familiar with them. You could take an AEM EMS anywhere and a guy with a dyno could tune your car. But the AEM EMS is 3 times more expensive.