Oh and also, the knocking sound on free rev went away, you should have heard the catalytic converter, that thing was gone.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403036591

WTF is that mess in there???

Looks like you fed your car a Knight in armor, and his Chainmele got caught up in the exhaust

It looks like chain mail. But honestly, I have no clue. Might be the inside resonator portion that separated?

Ah, yeah could be.... Interesting being that far up though. in that pic, We are looking at the exhaust from pre-cat back right? so we should be seeing the Cat guts in there?

This is the ass end of the cat. The front you can see the honeycomb, but it is broken apart and sideways.

So it was the cat. What do I win? Glad you finally listened and your car is running better! Keep tinkering with it bud

Smash the clay bricks with a piece of rebar and a hammer or something like that and get it all out of there. Just don't breathe the dust because it is harmful. The wire mesh is used around the outside of the clay media to seat it against the outer body of the cat. Get it out too.

Did you get the timing box installed again? If not, do that before you go boosting any more...

Got it.

Had some time to mess with it again today. Got the timing box hooked back up, adjusted the preload on the wastegate. Basically, I just went far enough where I thought it was too much and left it there. Turns out I was right, boosting consistently 5-6psi right now, all the way to 6k. AFR is about 9.8 right at 6k, so I have a little room to play with. It's loud, but it scoots. Getting a 'test pipe' welded in hopefully tomorrow.

The nut on the top, I lost it. What will this do? Driving it work tomorrow and getting another. Has something to do with how hard the valve opens? If there is no nut, it will slowly let the air out right?



https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403310792

Set screw adjusts the pressure on top of the spring over the diaphragm. The tighter (hard) you set it, the more pressure it will hold. Typically you back the screw all the way out (soft) and begin tightening it until the valve opens without fluttering when you come off boost/close the throttle fully. The nut holds the set screw in place.

Awesome explanation, thank you. It does flutter right now, so I will have to tighten it up and find me a nut to hold it in place.

Wait, so what ended up being the issue? The wastegate?

Clogged cat.

Ok, been driving the car and finishing up some things with it the past week. Few questions.

At cruise, the wideband shows between 13.5 and 15.9, and it sweeps from one end to the other quickly. Normal?

I have loads of power, but only after about 4k. If I hit it under that, it feels N/A till I cross that rpm, then it feels like I lifted off the brake pedal. I'm thinking I still have problems with my CLT sensor, could it cause the car to act like that? See below as well.

My cold start problem is back. If I don't help it idle, it will die until it gets up to operating temp. Also, after it is warmed up, coming to stop, it will idle high (above 2k). Then after about 20 seconds, it drops to normal.

When the above happens, and I put it in gear, the revs drop to normal. I take it out of gear, it starts to idle up. Sometimes it will drop to normal then rev right back up.

I have a whine (coming from where I don't know) when I'm cruising around 3k. I have not changed fluids in this car yet. Do you think it could be transmission/diff related? It's barely audible.

Other than that, I have been having fun with this thing. Fine tuning the preload on the wastegate, I goofed once and boost went crazy. That was fun and scary. Backed it off a bit and now happy where it's at. AFR is good, in boost the leanest it goes is 12.9.

Also, boost comes up to about 7psi, then close to redline drops down to about 5psi. What can cause this?

Thanks guys.

Post logs.

Can't, I have aids.

Further more, I found out my timing was set super fucked. Waiting right now for the motor to cool a bit before I pull #1 and check tdc. It was advanced atleast 20 degrees. I think that is the majority of my problems.

One of two things happened, either the belt slipped, or the pulley rubber is bad and letting the pulley slip. When I tried to move timing back closer to 10 degrees, it stalled out.

Also, just went and checked tdc. Timing mark lines up perfect.

Why would the car run at more than 20 degrees advanced, but not at the stock 10? It just stalls out the closer I get to it.