Turbo choices?
Hey folks,
I'm planning on building a 1.6, maybe or swapping to a 1.8, and installing some kind of turbo on it. My goals for the build are 250 to 300 hp safely and on the go boost control. I need help deciding what turbo to get as well as what make to get (Garret, BW EFR, or Precision. Also, when you're looking at a turbo, I don't know what the numbers mean, for example BW EFR 7163 or GTX2967R. I'd really appreciate the help. :) |
If you haven't done enough research to know that a 1.8 head wont fit on a 1.6 you have no business "slapping" a turbo on anything.
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Longest lived troll ever. Patient, too.
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More reading, less asking stupid basic noob questions.
Off the bat, you bought the wrong year car to turbo. It costs minimum $6k+ to boost 250-300hp reliably. Built engine required. |
Not sure if troll. Has not apparently done any reading since last summer when first post was made and other uninformed inquiries were posted.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1522339)
Not sure if troll. Has not apparently done any reading since last summer when first post was made and other uninformed inquiries were posted.
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I'm not a troll. I joined the military and now that I'm done with all my training, I'm trying to get back to research and was just wondering if people had some nice opinions.
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Originally Posted by Jgilby
(Post 1522444)
I'm not a troll. I joined the military and now that I'm done with all my training, I'm trying to get back to research and was just wondering if people had some nice opinions.
Again, how you plan to use the car, and your true goals will enter in. How much $$$ to spend? Do you have access to tools and skills to weld, or will you need bolt-ons? All those things enter into recommendations. Sixshooter, who already came to your defense, has a pretty good listing of all the 1.6-1.8 upgrades needed to even get to 200WHP reliably. What branch? |
In a nutshell, I have a 92'. I've popular "High schooler upgrades such as coilovers (Raceland's), wheels and tires, a Goodwin racing exhaust and raceland headers.
Realistically, I'd like to have 250-300 whp with my 1.6. Now I know that's a lot for a 1.6 but I know that it can be done just by watching guys like MrMattman and Law on youtube. Money really isn't an issue because I want to build it right and reliably. Goals: -250-300 whp -High lift cams (very hard to find) -reliable -have a driveline that will never break like an FD turbo 2 tranny and 3.9 torsen - I don't want the exhaust to just be turbo noise, I like a throaty exhaust - and last but not least, on the go boost control These are just my goals for the build, hopefully I can get to work soon. Marine Corps BTW YESSIR |
You will want 1.8 or aftermarket brakes, 1.8 diff and axles, 1.8 engine because of better breathing heads and intake manifold (and variable throttle position sensor not available on 1.6, and of course the cubic inches which everyone thinks is such a small thing but actually adds a thousand RPM of usable powerband when achieving 300 wheel horsepower).
Also: Chinese forged connecting rods, Low compression forged pistons from supermiata, BMW transmission swap from K Miata, Shocks that don't suck. Supertech light double valve springs Boundary engineering Billet oil pump BMW stock 530i clutch or equivalent ATI or Fluidamper Coolant reroute Big cams are not needed for 300 horsepower but can be readily purchased off the shelf and will require machine work to clearance the head. Most people install oversized valves as the low-hanging fruit for breathing instead of cams. But again, not even close to necessary. 1.6 and 1.8 blocks are interchangeable and since you were going to have to machine the block anyway to install forged pistons and rods there is no good reason to put a poor breathing lower quality unit of smaller displacement in the same hole. Same thing with turbo hardware. If you're going to buy a turbo kit for a 1.6 that cost the same as a 1.8 but will give you less back as a result, where is the sense in that? We don't advise every rifleman that comes along to switch to a 1.8 because it serves our interests. It doesn't. But it does make good sense and we choose not to give bad advice to people starting out (unless they plan to try to "be a drifter", those guys can eat a bag of dicks). MK Turbo is a good budget setup that can reach 300whp. One guy here goes 12.02 in the quarter mile using it, for reference. |
:bowrofl:
Trying to imagine someone eating a bag of dicks. A dog with a bag of bullie sticks, no problem. But yeah, I can run low 12's and I can trap 120, faster than cars in the 11's. Everyone at the track always says, "You know you would be in the 11's instantly with tires!" But I know that I need a K Miata transmission swap to do that. You should listen to six, he knows what he is talking about. |
Originally Posted by Jgilby
(Post 1522595)
In a nutshell, I have a 92'. I've popular "High schooler upgrades such as coilovers (Raceland's), wheels and tires, a Goodwin racing exhaust and raceland headers.
Realistically, I'd like to have 250-300 whp with my 1.6. Now I know that's a lot for a 1.6 but I know that it can be done just by watching guys like MrMattman and Law on youtube. Money really isn't an issue because I want to build it right and reliably. Goals: -250-300 whp -High lift cams (very hard to find) -reliable -have a driveline that will never break like an FD turbo 2 tranny and 3.9 torsen - I don't want the exhaust to just be turbo noise, I like a throaty exhaust - and last but not least, on the go boost control These are just my goals for the build, hopefully I can get to work soon. Marine Corps BTW YESSIR You also don't need them for your actual goals. |
Originally Posted by sonofthehill
(Post 1522700)
You should listen to six, he knows what he is talking about.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1522711)
Someone please tell my daughter.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1522701)
"High lift cams" are not a goal.
You also don't need them for your actual goals. |
Originally Posted by Jgilby
(Post 1522595)
-High lift cams (very hard to find)
Call local cam grinder, tell engine specs+use, give cams + money, collect cams ground to suit setup. If I can have 2 cam grinders within an hours drive of me (one actually about 10mins from my house), and I live in pissy little Australia, then surely in the US you'd have HEAPS more options. |
Originally Posted by hks_kansei
(Post 1523052)
Not really hard to find at all, unless you've got your heart absolutely set on brand new billets or something, or dont want to pay for them.
Call local cam grinder, tell engine specs+use, give cams + money, collect cams ground to suit setup. If I can have 2 cam grinders within an hours drive of me (one actually about 10mins from my house), and I live in pissy little Australia, then surely in the US you'd have HEAPS more options. |
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