DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Puting on the crown - home straight

Old 04-16-2016, 03:05 PM
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Default Puting on the crown - home straight

Oil return - Check




Compressor house rotated - Check




Down pipe - Check

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Old 04-16-2016, 05:01 PM
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Is that o2 sensor going to survive right there?
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Old 04-16-2016, 05:22 PM
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I dont know. Its about half the recommended distance of 24 inches. But the recommendation is based on application. I imagine with my setup I'm not producing or surpassing the most extreme tested operating conditions of this sensor. (Bosch came with innovate LC-2)
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Old 04-18-2016, 08:59 AM
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It should work fine for a while at least. Especially if it is a street car. My friend's 91 came with the WBO2 just after the turbo outlet, less than 6", and it has been fine for 6k miles or so. It is moving down to the end of the down pipe this week with any luck though.
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:20 AM
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Most instructions say 24" from the head if it's naturally aspirated. 24" from the turbine if it's turbocharged.
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:26 PM
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First start results. AN-fitting to hose assembly fail.

But it ran great.

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Old 04-19-2016, 05:02 PM
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Those look like mud tires lol
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:08 PM
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That fitting sucks nards, Has no barbs. Also need Oetiker clamps in your life. They are awesome.
Attached Thumbnails Puting on the crown - home straight-80-screenshot_2016_04_19_17_10_28_b86451c395e399468243314963c970e69e4d510a.png  
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by omnia
First start results. AN-fitting to hose assembly fail.

But it ran great.

This is exactly why I only use high-end fittings assembled at my local hydraulic shop. I don't want oil going on the ground from my being bad at making lines.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:15 PM
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by acedeuce802
24" from the turbine if it's turbocharged.
I've heard this as well, and never understood it.

It's not as though the turbine is generating heat. Yes, the exhaust gas does lose considerable thermal energy as it expands across the turbine, but that's an instantaneous transition.

In a rear-mount application with a pre-turbo muffler, does the sensor need to be located in free space a foot past the end of the tailpipe?

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Old 04-21-2016, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez
I've heard this as well, and never understood it.

It's not as though the turbine is generating heat. Yes, the exhaust gas does lose considerable thermal energy as it expands across the turbine, but that's an instantaneous transition.
You're thinking about it like an engineer would. They thought about it like a product manager would.

"Turbo cars typically produce higher EGTs, so the sensor needs to be further away. What's an easy reference for our customers to measure from?"

Ideally, they publish the max EGT allowable, and you plumb EGT fittings into your exhaust system every 3" until you reach a point where the temps are acceptable to the sensor, but that's not terribly convenient for the end-user who's installing it in their gravel driveway with a hand-drill and a flux core welder.
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Old 04-21-2016, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
You're thinking about it like an engineer would. They thought about it like a product manager would.
"We'll design it so that the core of the sensor can be replaced in 2 minutes by popping out a single latch, sell the complete system for $59, and tout the benefits of being able to ensure accuracy and freshness by replacing the sensor on a monthly basis.

Because the sensor burns out after a month.

And sells for $59."
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Old 04-22-2016, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Those look like mud tires lol
Could be snows.
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Old 04-22-2016, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by huesmann
Could be snows.
It is, and it f* snowed here today.
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Old 04-22-2016, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
You're thinking about it like an engineer would. They thought about it like a product manager would.
In all big engineering firms with success those two are the same. You're thinking about it as a scientist. Its not a research instrument.
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Old 04-24-2016, 06:49 AM
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Compressor house rotated - Check



Did you only clock the compressor housing or did you also clock the hotside housing too?

Was it easier to clock it when the turbo was bolted up to the block?
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Old 04-24-2016, 08:49 AM
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I only rotated the compressor housing. The oil drain faced down in its original configuration.

Original turbo alignment


It is easiest to do with the turbo off. I rotated it while I did the rebuild of its internals. It is fixed with a C-snapring that is a bitch to get to without the right / big enough pliers. And it is a locking pin on the compressor house with a pin-hole on the center housing, I drilled a new hole for the new rotated pin position, but I might have gotten away with just fileing away the pin.

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Old 06-10-2016, 03:02 PM
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Hi All

1. - Finally cleaned the car after it spent most of winter collecting dust in the garage during winter.

2. - Air filter installed at last. I've been testing the car without a filter driving around hoping nothing got sucked in to the turbo. I wonder how many degrees of intake temp i can save by putting it out to the side?

3. - Electronic boost control solenoid. Wastegate on this turbo is 1 psi so the EBC is worth its weight in gold. Its mounted by the windshield wiper fluid reservoir, with probably the longest vacuum line possible. How much response time is lost from over there?

4. - Engine bay, the flash photography really brings to attention the amount of dirt present in there.

5. - Sonic the Hedgehog - Hes fast, but faster than a turbo miata?






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Old 06-10-2016, 03:59 PM
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Thats a weird cat in the last pic
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