TURBO QUESTION Help
 

Just bought a na miata with a high quality turbo build Besides the cheap China turbo he put on there after frying the GT2560R my question is what is the best turbo I can put on the miata for under 400$$$!!
The car will be a troll/scca car only used a couple tIme a week. Looking for a quality and not figgetin worry free turno.https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...21660fca3d.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cc923402d8.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cc923402d8.jpg

There is absolutely nothing about that turbo setup you have that is high quality. It is an Ebay manifold that is prone to crack and break.

I can't decipher the exact question. You shouldn't run the car with the plumbing like that. It will catch on fire.

I feel so sad for the future generation of miata owners

Still need a good turbo and I am completely rebuilding the miata thanks for all the newbie love.

Serious here, park that car. It is a complete fire hazard. I don't want anyone to die in a fiery blaze, and you are on a path to do so with that set up. All of those poorly terminated oil lines are a bad, bad thing.

Park it, read, read more, keep looking and reading other builds. this will give you plenty of time to save up money to fix all those hazards.

But bro, it's high quality

Your best bet is to place it in the trash or melt down the metal to salvage & recycle for a small profit.

Talk to shuiend for a baller setup.
https://www.miataturbo.net/signature...pic1059_2.gif?
https://mkturbo.com/

I was trying to find the highest quality part. The manifold is out, so it a tie between:

1. The boost controller with a magnitude of lines and tee's leading to gawd knows what.
2. The heater core re-routed to the turbo. Don't know where the hell it goes after that.
3. The oil lines clamped onto a barb-LESS hard-line, using a high quality 1.5" worm clamp, choked down to 3/16".

This dude needs to pay close attention and examine as many build threads, stickies and help threads, as humanly possible for the next three months. No, six months.

It's a 1.6, so maybe it wants to die in a fire?

I kind of smell a stinky little troll. The grammar, choice if words, and picture uploads.. it's stinky.

Mazda Miata MX5 Eunos 1989 1993 1 6L Stainless Manifold Header w Downpipe | eBay

Look at that, even cheaper than $400.

:rofl: :likecat:

:likecat:

The hose with the worm clamp, that's your coolant feed line, right? Please say it is.

As for your turbo replacement, go hit up zilvia for a used turbo, you can usually get a used 2560r for around that much.

I bought the car AS is for 1800 for a winter project the car won't be drivienough till it completely finish just looking for a little help on my first turbo build.and yes I do have a new oil feel line that won't be shifty clamped onhttps://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bbf528819c.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a9afff3940.jpg

I think the heater core reroute is through the turbo?...

​​​​​​​That is what it looks like to me.

Hahaha yep, just saw that too

Basically OP, you bought a pile of poo. Good luck replacing everything lol

I wouldn't pay $180 for that

You also would not buy anything that is not perfectly clean for any price. You are a bit of an outlier compared to a ton of us on mt.net.

OP, I'll sell you my legit sunburst yellow... probably cheaper in the long run than you replacing everything :p

Wouldn't this still work though? It's still post pump, through a heat exchanger, turbo then return to mixing manifold. Other than it being in series than in parallel, it still functions right?

Do the 1.6 blocks not have the ports on the driver side too that OP can source oil/coolant? I forgot because I threw mine away years ago.

OK, since your new around here, Ill help you out. This forum is a special place, filled with some of the best info regarding Miata performance.There are a few guidelines to follow to avoid hating this place and its members.

DO-
Use capital letters, punctuation, proper grammar, and real words. No text talk. Nothing worse than trying to figure out what you are asking or saying, let alone solving your problems on your car.
Read all of the stickies and helpful tips. you aren't the first, 10,000th or last person to ask beginner questions. stickies will answer 80% of noob questions.
Read up in the build section and DIY turbo section. If you are serious and not a complete as, these will be a tremendous help.
Stay off EBAY for the most part. It is not a turbo parts warehouse. later on when you become turbo educated, you will be able to find a few good things over there, regarding your turbo needs.
SEARCH for answers. A great way I have found is this: open google, type your question followed by a comma and miataturbo. like this example- What size injectors for turbo, miataturbo- click.

DO NOT-
Think that you are one of the first to ask a certain question, then get mad when you get cooked, cockslapped and smacked. Search to avoid getting cockslapped.
Think that your time is more valuable that ours. Search for your answers first. Ask questions when you have exhausted all other options.
Think that you are entitled to anything, respect, answers to stupid questions or anything in general. right now this community owes you nothing.



That's all I have for now. Good luck with this miata and your existence here at MIATATURBO. Now go become a paying member. It shows that you have some respect and will start the cycle of love.


I have to poop now.

Ryan

Did you drink coffee again?

Black tea. Seams to have the same effect.

You can buy rust free running and driving NB's for 2500 here. I guess I'm spoiled.

except for the flowing upstream part

Ah yes, caffeine response. White tea's might offer a low caffeine alternative; Chrysanthemum being my favorite (with rock sugar).

I want to enshrine that post, ryansmoneypit. :likecat:

Best bet is to try and sell that to some other moran without loosing money and buy a 1.8 for about the same that hasnt been fucked up this bad. Literally you'll spend more time and the same money getting this thing setup with a non-fucked turbo setup than just starting from scratch.

Whoever sold this car to you should be charged with attempted murder.

Poor SBY.

Why replace the China turbo? if its not broken, run it. many here use china turbos with no issues.
If you still have the burned up 2560r have it rebuilt. you can use the CHRA exchange program, and for $450 get a new CHRA, which is basically a new turbo.

Post more pics of the complete engine bay.

redo your coolant lines, as i see it, the exit port from the heater core is going through the turbo (blue pipe) and back into the mixing manifold pipe that runs under the header (silver braided pipe).
I dont think its a good idea to choke the coolant flow from rear of engine to mixing manifold by placing a turbo in between.
Coolant from turbo needs to run into the radiator neck little hose and other end to the mixing manifold little hose to the left of the AC compressor.

I still cant figure out that boost controller web of vacuum lines

@18psi, for some reason I'm confused. How would that differ from running coolant from a block port to the turbo back to the mixing manifold?

Convection would cause most of these setups including mine to run flow backwards after shutdown.