Turbo setup problems
 

Hey guys, I'm once again, running into a wall here. Couple things: I'm using an Mkturbo kit, with a Garrett 2560r 3" T3 5bolt turbo. I haven't been able to build more than 5psi no matter what. Initially the internal wastegate arm was binding and staying open. After taking it out and grinding off some of the material the flap was getting bound on, the mounting point for the flap itself has broken free of the adapter, and is able to move in and out instead of simply rotating to open and close the flap. What can I replace this with? And what would cause this to happen? I took the car to get dynotuned, and after the stable tune, we discovered the bound wastegate arm.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...770c63d636.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1774955526.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...25e71bcd9e.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8d35d1876.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...22d596778e.png

you definately seem to have clearence issues.
remove the turbo and housing and make sure you make enough room for it to close the hole otherwise yes, you'll never build boost this way

I keep stumbling across people mentioning using a c clip on against the actual wastegate flap to prevent it from swaying and angling when opening and closing, and thus, binding in one position. I have also heard suggestions to weld the internal wastegate flap shut, and use an external wastegate somehow. I have the custom tube bent manifold that comes with the MK turbo kit. Has anyone had success with converting to an external setup with this kit?
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...666178b8e5.jpg

The Garett 2560 really should be able to work, and build up to its ~8 psi boost, with the internal gate.
So before you go trying to build external wastegates and so on, I would try to resolve your clearance problem and whatever twisting problem on the actuator that you are trying to describe.

If I am viewing the video correctly, the bushing is moving axially with respect to the casting. I presume this unit is not within warranty.

I have no idea what the bushing material is, but it might be able to be tack welded to the casting. That is what I would try to have done... have the bushing tack welded to the casting.

DNM

Correct. It's apparently not. At least I haven't had any success in trying to reach the manufacturer. I bought another one after seeing all that movement. The only reason I'm considering an external setup is to dodge the failure point that this internal flap has presented thus far. I'm replacing the failed one with a new one this week, which should solve the clearance issues until this one breaks too presumably. I would ideally ne able to use a more community approved part, or run into someone who has welded it shut and converted their Mkturbo setup to external. I know just enough to understand why it makes sense, but not enough to work through HOW to plumb everything.

Watching the video, it looks like machining the through shaft to accept a circlip to limit the freedom to move in and out, would be a reasonable approach.
If you can get the shaft out for that, and if you can locate a suitable circlip.

Is that birds in the background noise of the video? Pretty loud!

Great ideas about the circlip. I hadn't thought of that, and hadn't thought it would be strong enough to hold over time. I'd love to get it stable, and move on with the build.

And yeah, those birds were incredibly loud that day.😄