Turbo Track Project.
 

After reading and learning a lot, i put my flame suit on and decided to present "myself" and my project.
One thing to keep in mind, i'm located in France/Europe - important when guiding me to US based suppliers/products that may not be so easily available and/or affordable once shipping + custom duty + 20% VAT is applied (Think US price x 2).
The base car is a '99 10AE.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b2f8e41822.jpg
car on track..

So far it is fitted with:
- meister R CRD+
- racing beat front bar
- Jass Perf frame rail
- Hard dog Sport M2 roll bar
- Wilwood 11" front / oem @ rear - no proportioning valve install yet (it lays patiently on the garage shelf...)
- 15x9 Advanti storm S2 with 225/45 nankang AR-1

As for the engine, i've been running with an MS3 ( with AEM WB) for the past 2 years to get use myself with tuning/ and the software... except i haven't been "playing" with ignition yet by lack of time/balls to tune just by myself + the oem knock sensor.
Clutch is Exedy stage one ( will upgrade To competition clutch stage 3(?) later...) with the 6sp trans (oem on the 10AE)

I've also already gathered other parts in the past months/year ;
- 19row setrab for oil cooler with 10AN lines and mocal sandwich plate.
- 775cc FIC injectors (with pigtails)
- Walbro 255 + fuel fuel regulator

I have great fun with the car, but i've started to be a bit fed up of being held up on trackdays in the twisties by "slower" car that would just vanished in the straights and just to find them "again" by the mid portion of the twisties of the local tracks... So i've decided to turbo the car. The project will be a continuous process, so i'm not going to spend 5-8 000USD at once. my idea is to get some good parts that allow me to run with a stock engine at the beginning (aiming at 220-230rwhp) and once i've financially recover form the first step, forge the engine and run more power (around 300rwhp).

As for the manifold/DP/exhaust i'll go with Kraken manifold, 2"5 DP, 2"75 (or 3" if required for my final power goal) exhaust, magnaflow 18" muffler... because it is the best solution this side of the ocean at my spending level.
I'm not sure just what Turbo to choose between GT2560RS and GT2860 RS (disco potato). I found lots of opinions, but most of them include a "daily drive" input that is not applying to my project and/or involve a 1.6 engine. EFR are just not in my financial reach and GT2871r seems to be a bit "too much" for my power goals, as i don't intend to change the transmission which is a 6 speed). I'll tray to keep things "reasonnable"... and reliable.

As for the threads i'm interested in now; aero, ducting, how to save weight at the front of the car ( i'm myself less than 160lbs... :)), brake questions (OG racing threads...)...

Your comments/opinions are most welcome even if i get bruised in the process ;)

Welcome. Solid car and build plan. No flames needed.... lol.

are you buying the turbos new or used?

if buying new, an efr6258 t25 .64ar only costs a few hundred more, and its light years better than the 3 Garrett's you mentioned. And can make 200-400hp easily.

kraken efr setup cost same as t25.

also consider that you dont need to spend on buying a blow off valve and electric boost controller, as those are built in to the efr. And with this factored in, the price difference becomes much smaller.

Get the efr with the low boost actuator for stock engine. And run 8-9psi for about 220hp. Medium boost actuator is 10-11 psi minimum and about 250hp, 220tq. A bit high for a stock block track car.

The T28xx turbos will be less likely to generate detonation on a track car than a T25xx because they will generate less back pressure and less heat. This may also be an advantage of the 71mm instead of the 60mm compressor. Early spool will not be as important on the track and you will be able to make the same power with less pressure and less heat. Chose a .86 exhaust housing.

thanks for your answers

Some prices difference... differs quite a bit on our shore. The GT25/28 can be found new around 700-800 €, EFR 6258 at no less the 1550 €(one vendor, others are above 1700 €). I noted on the integrated blow off valve on the efr which reduce the difference of 800€ to around 700€, and forgot to mention i have an EBC already).
Even if i know it is a better turbo, i don't have plan to go much higher beyond 300rwhp; so the extra room offered by the EFR is not "well spent" in my view.

Noted that the .86 exhaust housing is the one to go flow wise... even if i am tempted by a ni resist. housing, (which seems to be only avalaible in .64) to reduce stress on the housing and thus improve reliability.

Following Shuiend advices i started step 2 : fitting bigger injectors The 6 simple steps ...,

I was suprised by some loom wiring that was in the way of the upper chamber of the intake manifold (BP4W) and that was not mention in either the mazda workshop documentation and the Haynes manual. I know that the wiring has been butchered at some point, but this area seemed to be pretty much oem.

anyway, one i open in half the manifold, i could finally see if a oil catch can is or will be required as i found some oil.... all of it after the trottle body .
Is this level of oil stain normal for a 88 000 miles car?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...aad1c1ce8f.jpg
pics is upside down. at the bottom, the infamous wiring loom that was in the way.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a22f71631d.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8514d365a9.jpg

The PCV valve seems to be operating correctly.

what's your opinion.

also a Boundary Stage 2 oil pump is on its way and the manifold/ exhaust kit sould be shipped soon.

Hi there...

progress have been slow but i kept santa Busy!
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a43c020b71.jpg
Not obvious but it is a Full 3" exhaust, with cat (and a bypass depending on the mood), resonator and 18" magnaflow.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c540090a8d.jpg
a cast Kraken T25 manifold with cast elbow ( 2.5" as 3" were not ready yet)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a15d010b71.jpg

I also decided to take care of the oil mist coming form the PCV valve with a moroso air/oil separator. Not sure i'm willing to go with a 2 can set up even if i can say that there was a tiny qty of mist in the intake pipe, meaning that some oil get through the breather on the driver side... but a tiny bit so no catch can for now
Regarding this driver side breather, i suppose i'll have to do "something" as, when i'll be in boost, it be become pessurised right? Shall I run a hose from the breather to the ai intake, before air filter? there surely is some king of depression at that spot?
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8fb6c40945.jpg
will have to make my own bracket to go over the ABS brake line, as i intend to keep it.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c6754b1f51.jpg
Surprisingly, the oil baffle is quite high and close to the metalic mesh. dunno if it' good or bad.

the 775cc injectors are in. the car manage to start -cold ( temp in the low 40's) but was runnig lean ( High 17:vash:)
After some tweaking, the car could hold it's 14.7 AFR while idling, ( +/- 0.2).

As for the turbo, i decided to play it "safe" or "petit bras" as we say here...
After thinking again, i realize that I shouldn't seek power but reliability. So far i had a lot of fun on trackdays because i could just go on track, and drive all day long, without having to worry about something breaking down. I know it sounds contradictory with turboing the car, but i still want more power so... it will get a turbo but i'll try to make it reliable.
Turbo will be a Garrett GT2560 with inconel turbine and ni-resist housing (836023-5004s) in order to help me managing the heat/withstanding the heat.
I'll aim at 200whp, reliable on track, and, when that is reached ( => when i can drive 30 mins leg with heat being managed), i'll start to play with boost and advance settings...

Hi Herduge!!

Very funny to find you here, i've created my account few days ago.
I'm Ragnar Lothbrok (Erwan) on MX5 France ;)
"Le monde est petit", as we say in France

I've bought last week a Turbo kit from a stock mazdaspeed.
So, i come here to find some advices to put it in my NBFL :rolleyes:

I'll follow your topic with attention.
I need to create my.

See u soon

Erwan

As we are learning, a big part of managing overall heat is intake temps, back pressure on the exhaust etc.

Others can advise better than me but it is likely that you might want to still consider the 2860 as suggested above for these reasons. Maybe you don't need the larger housings if yoru power goals are now lower though?

On track the earlier spool of the smaller turbo will not be noticeable...

Anyway, I actually came here to suggest that you may easily find a single catch can is all that is required. We race in all sorts of events from superlap to 30 minutes sprint races. The only time we ever had oil in the catch can was when there were "engine" related issues. Like melted pistons etc.....

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0431f64228.jpg
Really similar setup to your list of goodies. Kraken manifold, 2.5" DP, GT2860rs, single catch can. currently at 344whp.

Thanks for your input and what a nice engine bay! very neat!

As for the turbo, i ordered the 2560R... If i ever "need" more power, i'll jump to something like GT2871 and forge the engine!!! the GT2871 is supposed to be the biggest turbo that work with the kraken T25 ;)
I wonder though why you put the one catch can on the vent side (your passenger side)?
Your catch can is vented in the air so i wonder why not just install a small air filter directly onto the cam cover? it would require to clean/change the filter from time to time though.
Since the catch can is not connected to the air intake (pre turbo on your setup) there isn't any depression helping the venting as it does on the oem setup. so from my level of undersatnding, and it is just the pressure inside the cam cover that make the venting.
Can you direct me to your build thread so that i can better understand some of your choices ( no brake booster, open timing belt, how you dealt with IC and oil cooler...)

I dont have a build thread sorry. its only recently i found them! :)

Catch can is to catch any oil or vapor at high revs. If there ever is an oil leak with just an air filter direct in to the cam cover it would very easily catch fire right next to the red hot turbo etc.

Though our car is road legal it is really only for ease of getting to wheel alignment shops etc (and resale value, track only cars here just don't EVER sell) . It really is a mostly track car.

For this reason we did the booster delete....I found the pedal was (relatively speaking) very slow to return up travel when in a brake lock situation. I felt it was the booster slowing it down and it seems like it was. Unlocking a front tyre is a lot easier now. Not that it happens a lot but one of our tracks has a very steep 4th gear to 2nd, down hill hairpin that it is very easy to lock up in to. However it is lovely to drive on the road/around without booster. We use a standard size master but change the pedal throw ratio to compensate.

- Open cam belt cover is a mix of looks and ease of service, visibility etc.
- IC is pretty standard low mount in front of 949 crossflow radiator.
- Also recently went to an rx7 style oil cooler that sits above IC in front of radiator. Oil cooler is fed from a thermo block.

I decided to pull the engine out in order to perform the turbo install.
Not necessary for "just" the turbo install but with an oil baffle and boundary oil pump in the" to do list", it's well worth the extra work to perform all the tasks with more comfort.
i just hope i didn't overestimate myself since so far, before working on the miata, i had only change pads and brakes discs on my cars!
​​​​​​​
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a75ae3cf07.jpg

For those who may hesistate working on their car...

This is how I imagine God's MX5 looks, but with a Borg-Warner turbocharger instead.

Haha, thank you. All the credit goes to our race mechanic/engineer.

EFR is purchased and ready, waiting on Kraken for the 3" v band DP.

And black silicone tubing :bowrofl:

same manifold (as the 2860RS ) but different Downpipe?
3" cast elbow shouldn't be too long to come now:pitlab:

just got my GT2560R....
Now where do i route the IC piping? On the top, behind headlights like Patsmx5 or the more common routing, down near the sway bar???
My IC will be smaller than Patsmx5 (550x160) so if i go the headlight route, i have to fin a way to get the air flow to the IC, which will be in front of the TOP part of the water radiator...
Too much trouble for not much gain? is there any "real life gain" by having a simpler-less angle IC piping?

How do you like those Nankangs? I've been eye balling a set for my 14" wheels.

I really enjoy them :
1st set 205/50 r15
2nd set 225/45 r45

them hold up pretty well, at least to my standard... for a track tire, that get punished!

A lot of guys ( regular trackday drivers, in the top ten of the "miata tracking community" here) where impressed by the grip i got out the 225/45 ( well i guess it is supposed to be expected from a 225 :rofl:). I could keep up with them even if they had 60hp more on a track they knew that was new to me... making up in the bends what i lot in the straight.
The need more pressure than R888 ( around 2.1b hot vs 1.85-1.9)... to work well. At least, it did for me, as i was quicker.
They are heavier than their competitor, but are still faster, so...

While waiting to get all the gear to get the engine out.... i found stuff that i could do!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c4c27db2ac.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...245833776d.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2ab7baf58b.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e56c203a92.jpg

Quality of the part and kit is impressive.

Being by myself, i wrestle "a bit" with the adhesive template.... i just took my time (and all of my reserve of "zen" attitude) to position it.

Install is not "perfect", as in my haste, I cut the leading edge of the louvers, okay'ish but it c(sh)ould have been better.
I thought the trim was going all around all the edges when it's supposed to go around 3 sides out of 4, (the front being uncovered). Well it's good enough for a track-car, not so for a street/show car.
That said, it can be corrected by cutting 1.5mm in front of the 90° 1st blade and install the trim that i have left (should be juuust enough left).

I don't know where to post that but i found a VERY interesting site: " how a car works"....

Basically it's a video course about , well, how a car works. Very High quality video, and very well explained. The BEST part : the car for the course is a miata NB. so your get to learn a lot about your car! it's not free though, but it's well worth the investment!... Quality always does come at a price.

Those vents look great. I plan to order myself a set soon.

Here are the slow progress... Engine is out!
It may seems a very common task to lots of people here, but for me it's a major First! (before owning the miata, the biggest things i had ever done was a brake disc change:noob:)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7ea2dd65d4.jpg

Before taking the engine out as i was waiting for a the Day a friend could help me with his crane, i removed almost everything around the engine... ( alternator, exhaust manifold, intake manifoldand PPF... ) It was of course not necessary but made the operation a breeze for the noob I am. ( around 1h30 loading, unloading the crane and tyding up the garage included). Afterwards, I was excited like a kid ... and a bit anxious since i'm sometimes wondering if the car will ever start again!

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7e181178d7.jpg


Engine waiting for :
- all gasket renewal ( OEM mazda)
- timing belt change ( gates Blue)
- new water and oil pump ( Gates/Boundary stage 2)
- oil baffle ( from skidnation "race": indlude a top flat sheet and a vertical "U" shape you drop in the sump, with 2 flaps )
- mazdaspeed motor mount
- lightweight flyweel ( Comp Clutch ultra) and hybrid clutch from Bofi racing . It's 6 pads on the pressure plate side, full face on the flyweel side.It's a new part available in uk, which is convenient for european customer. I'll hope it wasn't foolish to buy a "new on the market" part. I see beeing the guinea pig from time to time as a contribution the community!
- and to gain 5WHP... some black wrinkle paint to change from the Green Kawasaki:giggle:

my budget ( and power goal) doesn't strech to do internals... but it remain a item that i shall change/upgrade:
the harmonic damper: ATI vs Fluidampr? I'm leaning for the fluidampr one... seems a very sound proposal from a reputable/reliable company. Fluidampr is cheaper than the ATI ( which require a new timing wheel) plus the Quality control issue ( end of 2017-2018) of ATI disturb me ( can't afford the pay shipping + taxes twice if i have to deal with customer service). The only mentioned negative point of the fluidampr is that it is attached with the 4 bolts, even though the fluidampr are 12.9 vs oem 8.8 (which SAE grade 5). I actually see this fitting was as a "+" as the press fitting/removal of the ATI is somewhat a pita (may be link the QC sizing of the h ole for the crankshaft). but not much reviews on this part among the miata community, which despite the QC issue - goof from ATI, still rely on this brand heavily.



https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7b0f32fc81.jpg


in the downtime i also emptyed my head light ( from damaged LHD)... it save some weight, and give a bit more room in the engine bay. I was always tempted to install the oil cooler behind the right head light and then i saw the William Chen supermiata S1 install. It motivates me to find a way to install my 19 row Setrab there!
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8bc08e0898.jpg

Hi,

Been watching your thread for a while, congratulations for you build!
Although there are several things that you went overkill, it's a pity you won't throw at least a set of rods in it, as long as the engine is outside, I mean you can fit that expensive damper later without pulling the engine out again, but you can't do engine internals without...

Best of luck!

Put something under the transmission to catch the oil. It will leak some.

It looks like you have accomplished and learned much from the work. It is full of discovery the first time.

ATI and Fluidampr should both be fine at this point.

Thanks for the kind word...
As for "rods" vs harmonic damper priority... I thought about it, but i believe -wrongly or not- that opening the engine may be like opening a pandora box!
Once opened, why not threw in new forged piston with the more or less compulsory cylinder honing/boring, new valve spring, main bearings, thrust washer, ARP head bolts...and suddenly i'm WAY over budget and/or i have to keep the car much longer in the garage while i'll save enough funds.
If i was convinced that i could ONLY do the rods and it that it made sense to do only that, i may reconsider, but so far i sold myself to stay away from the "opening the engine" way. I'm still pretty much in the denoobeing process... but i must admit your remark gets me thinking :hustler:

@ Curly
i drained the gear-box oil before removing attached to the engine. I should be fine, right?

Weakest link in the engine are the rods, it does not make sense to throw parts at an engine and not fix the weakest link.
Part of what you are saying is true though: if you are building an engine you are looking at the cost of machine work and gaskets and then it makes sense to throw in all the parts you want.

Now that does not mean you need to upgrade everything when rebuilding an engine. I am also building a turbo engine and the only thing I upgrade are the rods.
With the rebuild I am also throwing in a set of rod bearings and new piston rings, but otherwise I reuse everything else: pistons, oil pump, valve springs, balancer and even main bearings because they were fine.
I much rather spend my money on rods rather than a balancer.

Rods are more important than the balancer.

i may do internals later in my project, when i go for more power.

For now my torque goals are around 210-220 max torque, which is below the " accepted" treshold of 250 even if I now i can still bent a rod below this level. ( i prefer to refer to torque instead of power). I'll play with timing and boost level to reach this level, but not above, for the widest powerband possible. i'll also limit my max Rpm at 7000 rpm, and change gear at 6700-6800 as i have always done so far.

Just for my education and to fully consider (or not) the "rod only" upgrade, what other involved parts are :
a MUST: head gasket/rods bearings/ others...???...
a SHOULD: ARP head bolts/ pistons rings/ engine bearings/valve grinding/cylinder honing/valve seals...???...
a COULD-nice while in there: forged piston/valve spring/ new valves...???...

please feel free to add parts or relocate what i have indicated...

Cool to see another 10AE! Even cooler it is getting boosted!!!

In some latitudes you almost get flamed for modifying the best "limited" edition of the NB...

I just removed the head cover and got ready for the timing belt job. I discover "some" oil above the head/and inside spark plug well. All 4 spark plugs were oily (some more some less).
How much is too much? i must say that i made a big goof: be ready it's a BIG one!
After and oil top up during a meeting, I incorrectly re-install the oil cap /or got disturb while doing it /or didn't put it back:winner:
Next thing i know, after "some" miles, i could smell hot oil, and see white smoke... Amazingly, i recovered the oil cap on the subframe, and there was still oil in the oil pan, and nothing burnt!
Of course, oil got all over the place, and there was some in the "pool" where the spark plug cable lie. This could easily explain the oil in the spark plus well, but could it also explain the amount of oil on the camshaft/head?

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f983c769ad.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5190f12153.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dc5d6765b6.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b8031268d9.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e60352107c.jpg

I did made some progress in the engine dismantling...

with some "good" news and not so good news:
- main bearings appear to be in good/great shape.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4595f55ca2.jpg
main cap 1&2

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a3e6e16ec7.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...16f1a9f35c.jpg

- "big end" rod cap ... well good for 3 out of 4. N° 2 is severly grooved
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...47295dc44b.jpg
Rod N°2 "Big end" cap.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...aefc66bf04.jpg
Rod bearing n°2
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1749f661ad.jpg
Rod bearing n°2

The bearing seems to be very smooth except for a very little tiny groove you can merely feel with a finger nail. ( Not the perfect measuring tool, but it's what i had readily available)

I also measured the gap/tolerance at the crank main bearing with plastigauge.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4a42e12967.jpg
Oval Shape plastigauge measures

Results are between 0,025mm and 0,032mm at the widest part of the shape. It seems pretty tight, like if someone put some "oversize cap" at some point but i have no track record and/or proof that the engine was opened before. All seals are oem ( rear cranksahft, oil pump...) and the silicone from the sump was grey (under the brownish oil stain) like the oem mazda. Engine is about 140 000kms or a bit less than 90 000miles.

SO what's next???

For sure, new rod caps... What about main cap? OEM or ACL??? Some people here prefer oem vs ACL that may be too strong, and not acting anymore as a "fuse".
What do you guys think of the shape/value of my measurements with plastigauge?
I'm not keen to further open dismantle the engine, but will do it if required. This open the door to fitting new rod - forged one- a path i've been reluctant to follow for funding reasons.
But i believe i could make a strong case for it when negotiating with the home CFO, if i get enough arguments:giggle:
What new rods does imply? Is keeping old piston with new rings a stupidity or acceptable (if found sound after a clean-up)? What rings with oem pistons?
Honing will be necessary or at list something "to do while you're in there".. but what about . i'dont' want to loose control of my build (and its budget)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ef86c6b83d.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...43e3dfbbd1.jpg
Practically, you can do whatever the f*ck you want, whatever you find better suited for your budget and goals. I for example, changed the rods with some maxshitting ones, main and big end bearings, gaskets and head bolts (stock). Had a few scored bearings myself, but crank was within spec. I measured all the tolerances in the bolck, on the crank, measured the oem piston rings which were also in spec and decided not to change them. Polished the crank, remeasured it, and closed the engine after a thorough cleaning of all components. I suspect that the bearings were damaged due to oil contamination of carbon build up, previous owners probably not doing the maintenance like they should have... If for some reason it fails, i'll probably get a used stock engine and boost it till it shits itself, that was the initial idea, but got the rods and engine in exchange for some N/A goodies... boosting stock engines without opening them up is way more cost efficient, specially if you're not after wild power figures, if it fails, drop another one in over the weekend, and you're good to go, but that's just my opinion... i sstand by what @DaWaN said earlier about rods being the weakest link for turbo builds, especially when you mount a small sized turbocharger which boosts up very quickly...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5497207127.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c83e244cf7.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5aee6ab13e.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5902418178.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a203e07fcc.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b23747e448.jpg

Those main caps look fine and having the clearance close smaller size of the spec (0.020mm - 0.036mm) is nice for main bearings in my opinion.
I would not hesitate to reuse those main bearings.

There is no issue with reusing OEM pistons. For sure clean the grooves well before installing new rings.
I would never reuse OEM Mazda piston rings, because they often loose tension which will lead to oil consumption (the main reason I was rebuilding my engine).
New OEM Mazda rings would be fine, but I think they are very expensive, so I would go with an aftermarket manufacturer.
You can choose any manufacturer you want, I know in Europe there are a few sellers selling NPR rings, Hasting rings and TP rings. All of them should be fine.
As for honing: you can do it yourself with a drill. The tools are often called a "flex hone" or "dingle ball hone" and very cheap (less than 50 euros for sure). Plenty of videos on YouTube how to hone yourself on the cheap.

I finally decided to bite the bullet and ordered some forged Rod... Still Being on a budget, i stayed away from the big brand and went for the "chinese that are almost all the same"... Maxspeedings Rods, that come with ARP bolt. Others specs are close (if not same as) to the Manley. Hopefully that we'll give me that little more longevity/strength/peace of mind for the "grey powerband area" that i was aiming for (230/250rwhp). New mains, rods and thrust bearings will be coming with hastings rings.

So for my new "first time", I removed the head, eager to discover what my pistons looked like.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0192309ec8.jpg

Closer look to piston n°4. It is dirtier than n°1.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ae1d934667.jpg

Just take a peek inside cylinder n°2... One can still notice the honing pattern...
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cde9d7cadc.jpg

The more educated/experienced are free to comment.
I supposed it is quite normal for an almost 90k miles engine running a bit on the little bit rich side ( oem mazda for 85, MS3 tuned by myself for 5k)
As for the state of the cylinder, the usual ridge at the top of the piston mouvement is there but very minimal. With a splay of WD40 + rag i could already see the yellow crown at the of the cylinder wall. I don't know if the cylindre are glazed or not... beware, noob question : is a new honing a must when fitting new rings even if the cylinders are not glazed?


after less than 10minutes work with WD40 and a soft metal hand brush, the pistons 1 and 4 look much better...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d474c059ec.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4c01e850cc.jpg

also an engine building noob, but I have read that you must do a hone to have the rings seat properly. I am planning on a quick bottle brush hone when I do mine.

I dropped the block, cylinder, head and crankshaft to the workshop for cleaning/ honing the block, surfacing the head and polishing the crankshaft.

Even though i cleaned the piston, the guy will put them in the hot bath with the block for peace of mind. He will also measure piston/cylinders/crankshaft to make sure all is well.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...994a9c6082.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...818d9cbc2e.jpg

Everything should be back in a montrh or so ( holiday period here)...

I was suggested to polished/sand the skirt of the piston ( with water very fine water-sand paper???) i'm not sure this idea is the best one...

While my block is being prepared for new rings and rods, i decided to save some weight and decided to remove all the "unecessary wires"... Which means according to my own standard removing :
- SRS ( airbag and pretensionner) [ air bags by themselves are gone since long time]
- HVAC wires
- Speaker wiring [ audio gone since a long time]
- Antenna wiring
- defogger wiring
- rear fog light [ don't do trackady in fog light...]
- immobilizer and central locking
- head light adjustment wiring
- cabin lightning and door switches

the results is not that bad... almost 7lbs ( 6,89lbs] or over 3,1kg in real measurement system :)... for cable/relays/ electronic devices only. It doesn't include the command panel of the HVAC,fans, side mirrors...
There will be some easier and "quicker" weight saving later.
For exemple, i choose to keep the electric windows for the time being as i don't want to hack the door yet (just have a roll bar, not full cage with door bars.... so I want to keep the oem door bar) and read that the manual handle could rub on the left leg and don't want to spend to source manual system. Oem mirrors may be replaced by "race" side mirror that weight half of the oem's weight.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6e0e2a480b.jpg

after somes months, here is where i stand
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d7d27a1d13.jpg

engine back together with:
- new forged rods (maxspeedings)....
- new caps all ACL race
- new water pump, pulley,tensionner and belt
- boundary stage 2 oil pump
- new valve stem seal (spm)

all this make a nice looking engine...
i also clean the valve with this high precision tool:rofl:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...18de9368ef.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8eec8f4353.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9a53248672.jpg
No the perfect finish, but as i'm keeping the valve guide, i didn't want to "overdo" the cleaning of the stem.
After this step, i did lapp the valve, to be sure that they sit properly and tightly. I got a nice greyish ring afterwards, with no holes nor gap. Time will tell if i did f....p somewhere!
Once thing your can notice, is the constrution of the exhaust valve, in 2 parts/materials.


I'm only a couple steps away from fitting back the engine in the car i'm but still quite far from starting it!


i'm still questionning myself regarding the water lines to cool the turbo.
i could go the "easy way" and copy the FM setup.... but, since it is :
- a track car
- with a coulant reroute (spm Qmax)
- with a waterneck delete
- without "heater" ... who needs heating in a track car. ( if' it's too foggy/ damp... it's a "no go" so i doubt i'll ever need defrost)
i believe it's possible to do better or, at the minimum, there is some reason to think about it...

Ideas that i have.
1-Placing the turbo where the heater used to be ( schematic)... inlet :back of the head / outlet : pipe to the water pump:idea:
Pro: good flow, quicker to temp engine. cons: the turbo will only get "heated" water from the back of the head.
Also, when engine off, the cool water from the radiater can travel up to the turbo, then to the head (siphon)

2- drilling at the bottom of the rad to get cool water to feed the turbo. return is where the hose to the throttle body water hose is connected. A "T" is required there to connect the hose from the turbo and from the TB to the water pump neck. I suppose the waterpump is strong enough to pull the water from there ( bottom of the rad, then up to the turbo and back to the waterpump inlet)

3- use the "FM" configuration. but without the mixing that occurs with a waterneck (where some colder water from the waterpump is/could be mixed with "hot" water from the throttle body) , this solution seems to be worse than idea 1 ( less flow and water even hotter since after the head, it will come through the "oil warmer".

I also look at a spm crossflow radiator. I'm coming to NYC for easter, so i may have some special luggage on my way back;) ( shipping +taxes double the US prices once in EU which make the expense unreasonnable... until then)

I also start looking deeper in the "ducting area". I cannot weld, but brazing may be reachable with a bit of training. ( if not perfect, it could leak some precious cool air, which is not "good" but certainly not critical to safety in general nor to the engine's life).

A fluidampr damper, turbosmart BOV and some belts are on their way....

I hope to give progress report more regularly... but sometimes life gets in the way and i rather work on the car than, write about what i haven't done yet

Engine almost ready to go back to base.Turbo is just there for "show"... to just keep me me motivated.

New clutch ( Bofi Racing : 6 puck on one side, full face on the other) with lightweight flywheel. Fluidampr damper in place.

I still have to do some maintenance on the gearbox ( seals..) and then, it will be time for the engine (+gearbox) to go back where it belongs!



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6e9ed41e3f.jpg

It seems like you are trying to solve a problem you don't have :dunno:
https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing...or-your-turbo/
Seems that if you angle the turbo properly it will take care of itself naturally. Hope I don't come across as rude, just trying to help save you a headache. Beautiful car by the way. :D

... By MT standards, your post is almost like a friendly suggestion... :D!
You're right that I may be trying tro solve an issue that doesn't exist. But since it's my first build, i'd rather cover all base even if an issue may not exist.
Since, i haven't seen this routing used nor "validated" by the "reputable" track user/builder, i'd rather ask and look stupid now, that be supid AND sorry later for not asking...

This video is quite long but may be helpful. Everything I have ever read about water cooled turbos is that they really only utilize the water cooling after the engine is shut down; alas, I am not the track turbo user you are looking for :eek3:

latest progress...
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3b30d5e53e.jpg

-New clutch back in place - Noob note : don't forget the pilot bearing (one year after removing the oem flywheel, one can forget there is a bearing in the flywheel center when fitting a new lightweight flywheel...)
Not great to forget ( you learn from your mistakes...hopefully!) but not as bad as remembering after the engine and gearbox are back in the car ...
- Right mazdacomp engine mount in place, both manifold in place ( plenum is just in place so that nothing falls in the engine) ( i'll fit the left one during engine install)
-EGR blocking plates in place.
-I tighten the old crankshaft bolt just to 100ft/lbs... i'll put a new bolt after cheking that i got my timing belt install right
- i fitted new seals on the gearbox ( front and rear)
My engine is held by the exhaust side on the stand, no i can no install yet the waterpump mixing pipe nor the steering pump bracket. What did i forgot before putting engine back in the car?

As for water cooling for the turbo... I'll follow FM R&D conclusions (thanks for sharing the knowledge...) and adapt it to my Qmax reroute.
I won't use the heater core circuit. i'll just connect the outlet from the reroute straight back to the mixing pipe.
Instead i'll use the small spare hole (1/8 npt ) to feed water to the turbo from the reroute.
From the turbo "back to engine" i have two choices:
- the nipple at the mixing pipe of the water pump (like most install)
- or somewhere into the radiator...

Drilling the radiator seems like looking for trouble but it gives a chance for the water to be cooled down a bit befoire re-entering the waterpump-engine. Also, when the engine stops; the waterflow inside the turbo will be reversed, so the "radiator" or "mixing pipe" nipple will become the water source, and the cooler/the lower, the better (optimization of the siphoning effect... ).
What i'll probably do, is play it safe and connect to the nipple and see how this works, but i'm curious to know what other have done/have to say in a the turbo + track car... especially S1 cars;)

Looks great! Excited to see how this turns out!

Some progress. Engine is back where it belongs.

I just put some items in place to test my routings ideas,

Turbo Water cooling:
I intend to use the 1/8 npt port (plugged) of the Qmax reroute to turbo. i intend to tap into the "water mixing manifold" for the Turbo to water pump line.
While engine is running this shouldn't carry too much hot water straight back to the engine (as mentionned in the FM own reroute video presentation). AND while engine NOT running be a good, low (lowest?), source of cool water to maximize the shiphon effect...
Hope this is sound reasoning. But I wonder why 949 is not using it on vegas ( at least on the pics i have) i may miss something!

Water lines
i'll bypass the heater (removed) and connect the 5/8 qmax port directly to the water pipe of the water mixing manifold

Oil cooling.
nothing fancy, i just wonder if running the oil line along the top of the head cover is high enough/far enough from the turbo / exhaust manifold to prevent it from heat soak?

intercooler lines
Turbo to IC : 90° silicone elbow to 45°aluminium to 90° silicone.
To make room, in this cramped area, i turned the metal port of the PS pump some 45° to reroute some PS hose.
IC to TB : 90 ° silicone to 90° aluminium to 45° aluminium to 90° silicone.
as i'm no welder i tried to reduce as much as i could the need of welding alumiium.

BOV lines
not a proper bov, as it's plumped back. A nice 1" aluminium pipe with a 45° elbow should do the job from the turbosmart "BOV" (installed right befor the TB ) to plumb it back between the air filter and the turbo inlet...

I know, lots of saying/thinking and not that much doing... but i have a 51cm/3,7kg (That's 8"/ 8,25lbs) new "project" that get and desserve all my attention and thoughst at the present ;) . On the other and, on the sleepless night to come, i may make some escape to the garage:idea:!









https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...38f2531cbf.jpg

One year later... :sleep:

Thanks for your patience. So progress has been slow here but the engine is running...it actually started on the first try, needless to say that i am quite proud - and relieved- as this is my first project!


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d5b1153504.jpg

i still have to connect the EBC (reason why there are some spare wire on the valve cover), finish some heat shielding work, and i'll be able to start tuning. i have some VAG cops (NGK) to install, but i recently learn that the MS3 basic does not provide a strong enough current to drive them safely.
I'm looking for a solution that doesn't require to open the ms3 and weld electronic components...if flow force is willing to detail the R8 cops harness + a "high current plug in device" i' ll be first in line :-)

I ran the MS3 normally aspirated for 3 years so i'll have to create a new base map.
Is there some sound rules of thumbs when modifying the maps when you go from N/A to Turbo? iI assume that most of the part below the 100kpa should be very close except for small mods to take into account the VE adjustment as the engine has to "fight" the presence of IC and turbo, which is impacting its efficiency... What adjustments need to be made to the ignition timing? i suppose i have to advance my maps by a couple of degrees... but by how much? i did try to contact Reverant who built my MS3 initially but didn't get any answer yet.

i also when "wild"with the spending lately (as a compensation for being slow in the "workshop") : Xidas race are fitted and 9lr wings + airdam are waiting to be installed!

Good Deal...

A bit late, but I can confirm that you are OK with turbo water lines and oil feed. Also the recirculation (bypass / blow-off) piping looks very good. (From Post #46 above).

Changes in map below 100 kPa should be minimal, if any. Both VE and Spark. Idle parameters should be good.

Nice looking 10AE.

What compression ratio pistons?
Where is your catch can?

Thanks you... Iindeed try to make it look good

That's what I supposed even though i thought that different intake and exhaust manifold could have change a bit the efficiency of the engine, and thus the VE table... probably the difference between theory and practice ;)



oem NB piston and no catch can... as per Savington explaination regarding track + turbo set up (i have a moroso catch can just in case).
The PCV valve is still there though but will be removed and changed for a plug.

thanks for you time/interest/comments...

here i'm back with progress...

I found a secured parking place for the 964 which freed up some space to work on the mx5-miata...

car starts, runs, idles well even if a bit high (1200-1300tr/min)... which is unsuprinsing considering it's running with an VE atmo map....

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...199d72ce7d.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d0e79bbfca.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...11458b803c.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...af89b80d93.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dba26feb3d.jpg

all this work for this :giggle:!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...194a31a8f2.jpg


Some details...
mapping was done using Dynapack. It does reads higher as the 4 pods are connected to the hub of the car. ( 325hp is around 280-290whp for you). as for accuracy, I don't really care for the final numbers, but i do care for the torque curve shape! Neverthess, a 1.8 NA with similar setup but on pump gas, no EBC made 250hp on the same bench, same guy...

Car is running under Ethanoil E 85 ( less heat, more timing, much less risk of knock, much cheaper gas.... but hygroscopic so will have to find a solution during winter storage)
the tuner had to respect : max 1.2 Bar (that's 17psi), max 7000rpm, max torque 350NM( 260 Ft/lbs) and aiming at a "flat torque curve".
max boost is... just 0,8b... He reach 370NM (273 Ft/lbs) that i validated. I introduce this limit to preserve the 6sp gearbox (track use).

He said that he had to really had to smoothen the torque peak as the car is able of 450nm (330 ft/lbs...)
I have some work left on ducting... and i suppose install stronger front & rear hubs!