Need some help-I keep destroying Turbos
10-06-2009, 07:47 PM
#1
Need some help-I keep destroying Turbos
OK, my sig shows what I am rocking.
Turbonetics T3 Super 60 with stage 1 exh wheel and .48 a/r
20psi
BEGI mani
Tial WG
3" DP
I get that turbo and you see the dyno results.
After Dyno time and 3 laps around HTM at Willow springs The shaft is bent to **** and the bearings are destroyed.
New oil, EGT's never went over 12-1300.
Send it back. get a new one. they give me some bullshit line about my EGT's.
Whatever. So they think I should have a water cooled.
I say whatever and get the turbo. They did cover it under warranty.
I strap this bitch on, I do a short event in Riverside and then I go to a competition up at willow springs this Sunday. Nice and cold there all day. Engine temps dont go past 190*. Oil has 1 event on it. I do the practice runs, qualify in first place
I do my 1st tandem run and lead OK. Even though the turbo felt like it had increased lag and a weird noise(whiny). I thought maybe I modulated poorly and it was my fault. I did fine, it was a winning lead.
Soooo I got to follow this dude, thing sounds like ****, spools like **** and then I basically lose power and lose the round. I am pissed. So I go to the pits and the turbo sounds like a super charger, the shaft is kinda bent again and there is a **** ton of shaft play. There was never any smoke or anything like a seal went the 1st or 2nd turbo..
Now that I am over the loss, what the hell is causing these things to **** the bed on me?? I am not doing some weird radical **** with my tune, fuel, boost set up..
Any ideas folks??
thanks,
Jeff
Turbonetics T3 Super 60 with stage 1 exh wheel and .48 a/r
20psi
BEGI mani
Tial WG
3" DP
I get that turbo and you see the dyno results.
After Dyno time and 3 laps around HTM at Willow springs The shaft is bent to **** and the bearings are destroyed.
New oil, EGT's never went over 12-1300.
Send it back. get a new one. they give me some bullshit line about my EGT's.
Whatever. So they think I should have a water cooled.
I say whatever and get the turbo. They did cover it under warranty.
I strap this bitch on, I do a short event in Riverside and then I go to a competition up at willow springs this Sunday. Nice and cold there all day. Engine temps dont go past 190*. Oil has 1 event on it. I do the practice runs, qualify in first place
I do my 1st tandem run and lead OK. Even though the turbo felt like it had increased lag and a weird noise(whiny). I thought maybe I modulated poorly and it was my fault. I did fine, it was a winning lead.
Soooo I got to follow this dude, thing sounds like ****, spools like **** and then I basically lose power and lose the round. I am pissed. So I go to the pits and the turbo sounds like a super charger, the shaft is kinda bent again and there is a **** ton of shaft play. There was never any smoke or anything like a seal went the 1st or 2nd turbo..
Now that I am over the loss, what the hell is causing these things to **** the bed on me?? I am not doing some weird radical **** with my tune, fuel, boost set up..
Any ideas folks??
thanks,
Jeff
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10-06-2009, 08:01 PM
#2
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That sucks Jeff!
But you're not the first person I've heard this type of story from. Turbonetics has a very limited market saturation, but it seems that I hear weird catastrophic failure stories often. My buddies with H2's say nothing but bad things.
I understand they have a 1 year, no questions, warranty on their turbos. But since they've already replaced your turbo once, I don't know if it's still covered under that warranty--or if once they replace it, they're done.
Maybe it's time to go to Garrett or Precision.
But you're not the first person I've heard this type of story from. Turbonetics has a very limited market saturation, but it seems that I hear weird catastrophic failure stories often. My buddies with H2's say nothing but bad things.
I understand they have a 1 year, no questions, warranty on their turbos. But since they've already replaced your turbo once, I don't know if it's still covered under that warranty--or if once they replace it, they're done.
Maybe it's time to go to Garrett or Precision.
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10-06-2009, 10:45 PM
#4
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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Maybe check yourself on the compressor map and make sure you're not in surge. That will kill a journal-bearing turbo in short order. Pretty small turbo for 20 psi, though it's so old my familiarity is limited, and I could be off base.
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10-06-2009, 11:43 PM
#5
This is their Ball bearing model. Though I have heard that their BB is not dual, just one side.
They claim efficient up to 22psi. I am at 20 and on my dyno it shows boost just starts to dip a bit around 6800rpm if iremeber correctly.
This turbo should pull 20psi all day. Its making great power and HP does not drop much at all. It holds well.
As for surge, I dont see it as a problem, my BOV works fine.
I mean, a 2560r can do 20psi all day. This POS should..
They claim efficient up to 22psi. I am at 20 and on my dyno it shows boost just starts to dip a bit around 6800rpm if iremeber correctly.
This turbo should pull 20psi all day. Its making great power and HP does not drop much at all. It holds well.
As for surge, I dont see it as a problem, my BOV works fine.
I mean, a 2560r can do 20psi all day. This POS should..
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10-06-2009, 11:44 PM
#6
That turbo should be right around the end of its efficiency at that pressure, but not out of breath. Thats why we recommended it to him. It might be a "small" t3 but its no lightweight. Remember, it has a larger turbine than even a 2871r.
Not sure what could be killing your turbines. I guess its is possible that the shaft is spinning to fast at that pressure.
Not sure what could be killing your turbines. I guess its is possible that the shaft is spinning to fast at that pressure.
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10-07-2009, 05:14 AM
#14
This is a 2560R right. isn't that water and oil cooled. Mine was.
It only takes 2 seconds to hook up the water. You just get 1/4in tubing and run it from the thermostate housing to the turbo. And run te next line to where the other came off.
I wouldn't risk it. And the worst it could do is increase power a life in the turbo. It is so easy, I would let my 18yr/old brother do it, on my car.
Good Luck!
It only takes 2 seconds to hook up the water. You just get 1/4in tubing and run it from the thermostate housing to the turbo. And run te next line to where the other came off.
I wouldn't risk it. And the worst it could do is increase power a life in the turbo. It is so easy, I would let my 18yr/old brother do it, on my car.
Good Luck!
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10-07-2009, 03:01 PM
#17
This is a 2560R right. isn't that water and oil cooled. Mine was.
It only takes 2 seconds to hook up the water. You just get 1/4in tubing and run it from the thermostate housing to the turbo. And run te next line to where the other came off.
I wouldn't risk it. And the worst it could do is increase power a life in the turbo. It is so easy, I would let my 18yr/old brother do it, on my car.
Good Luck!
It only takes 2 seconds to hook up the water. You just get 1/4in tubing and run it from the thermostate housing to the turbo. And run te next line to where the other came off.
I wouldn't risk it. And the worst it could do is increase power a life in the turbo. It is so easy, I would let my 18yr/old brother do it, on my car.
Good Luck!
That turbo should be right around the end of its efficiency at that pressure, but not out of breath. Thats why we recommended it to him. It might be a "small" t3 but its no lightweight. Remember, it has a larger turbine than even a 2871r.
Not sure what could be killing your turbines. I guess its is possible that the shaft is spinning to fast at that pressure.
Not sure what could be killing your turbines. I guess its is possible that the shaft is spinning to fast at that pressure.
I agree about efficiency, but I am sure it wouldnt **** bearings all over..
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10-07-2009, 03:12 PM
#18
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how much oil pressure are you making? Is the wastegate open at target boost?
You could always get a .48ar turbine housing and a super-aggressive compressor wheel with a large AR.
You could always get a .48ar turbine housing and a super-aggressive compressor wheel with a large AR.
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10-07-2009, 03:17 PM
#19
@Hustler - He has a.48ar turbine housing already and a turbine larger than yours. If he increases the size of his compressor too much then he will lose spool which I gather he needs for dr1fting.
@Turns - I am currently using the same turbo as you roughly and I love the spool. You can check my fifth gear log in Brain's spool data thread. This weekend we will be dropping in my new motor and I will be upgrading to a super special compressor wheel. I'll be posting more logs then to see what the difference in spool is. I'll let you know if its not much different.
@Turns - I am currently using the same turbo as you roughly and I love the spool. You can check my fifth gear log in Brain's spool data thread. This weekend we will be dropping in my new motor and I will be upgrading to a super special compressor wheel. I'll be posting more logs then to see what the difference in spool is. I'll let you know if its not much different.
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10-07-2009, 04:41 PM
#20
^^ thanks man.
What brand is your turbo? Same brand? Who will be making the more agressive wheel for you?
Also, when this turbo is working I love how it feels and performs. ****, 300+ with whp and TQ is sick stuff in this car. Everyone ***** themselves when they see how fast it is..
Huslter- I make pretty much stock oil press. Maybe a bit more when going super full nuts. I dont have that restrictive oil cooler water thingy where the stock oil filter location goes either. So flow is smoother..
Wastegate opens appropriately..
OH, Just talk to let you all know. i just spoke with a tech at Full Race and they feel I should rock a 2871R. They think I will easily make the power and it will spool faster..
Thanks everyone!!
Any takes on that??
What brand is your turbo? Same brand? Who will be making the more agressive wheel for you?
Also, when this turbo is working I love how it feels and performs. ****, 300+ with whp and TQ is sick stuff in this car. Everyone ***** themselves when they see how fast it is..
Huslter- I make pretty much stock oil press. Maybe a bit more when going super full nuts. I dont have that restrictive oil cooler water thingy where the stock oil filter location goes either. So flow is smoother..
Wastegate opens appropriately..
OH, Just talk to let you all know. i just spoke with a tech at Full Race and they feel I should rock a 2871R. They think I will easily make the power and it will spool faster..
Thanks everyone!!
Any takes on that??
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