turbo wont start - arrggghh!!!
 

OK - please help - I'm having some problems :cry:

I have a 90 1.6 with latest version Link, RX7 460cc injectors, Innovate WBO2. The rest of the kit is ex-Kung Fu Jesus from this board.

I have installed the turbo, intercooler etc and have now reached the the time where it was going to fire into life. I loaded the 440 defaults and tried to start.

The car starts and idles for a few seconds and shuts down - not stalling - just stops. The boost gauge is reading 10vac - where it used to be 20 - although I have no idea if this would be causing the issue?

The a/f gauge (if the cars running long enough for it to show) - shows the car VERY rich - iro 8

IF when its going I try to put my foot on the gas its very hesitant and then shuts down still.

IF its the vacum that you are going to point me towards- where should I look. I have checked the connections for the MAP, Boost gauge, and BOV. I have a filter breather cap off the cam cover.

Any help is appreciated.

C

Sounds like you are sucking in unmetered air. Check to see if the BOV is allowing air to enter if vta, then check all your piping for holes or loose connections.

BOV plumbed backwards maybe? I think it's possible with some of the bosch valves or the 3kgt valve that BEGI and FM used to use.

Frank

I take it you've removed the AFM with the Link?

Look at connections to MAP sensor.

You've checked/tweaked zones 6, 16 and 710?

LOL i think the same thing that happend to me is happening to you. Turn the master fuel down by like 10 points. Save and try to start the car. I think you are flooding it with the 460's

thanks for the comments guys - I will check all this evening - Pitlab77 - Can I ask what you turned your masterfuel down to?

Chris

I dont remember. Sold my old turbo set up over a year ago. I seem to remember the number 4 in there some where 74,64 i cant remember

Sorry.

do you have the serial link to hook up your link to a laptop?

Yes I do. - Please tell me you have a nice starting MAP?

found one of my last files on my laptop

here are the fuel zones:
. .... 00 05 10
100 73 73 75
200 72 71 72
300 85 90 97
400
500

pitlab77 - thanks for that. Unfortuantly Im a little new at the link also. does that mean zone100=73, zone105=73, zone110=75, etc etc?

C

I am a little fuzzy on the link. (have not had one in over a year) but yes I think its ZoneF

thanks for the help so far guys. I called FM and Keith pointed me to the MAP sensor. he recommended that I go to the diag port and jump FP (Fuel pump) and ground to bypass the MAP sensor. The pump makes all the normal sounds and fires up no problem (sounds b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l). I remove the jumper and I'm back to the same problem. I have checked the vaccum link for the MAP - looks OK (although my vac gauge only has 10 vac as mentioned above). Other connections look OK. FM is closed at the moment (blimmin time zones) - but does anyone have an idea what could be causing this?

you could wire the fp on a switch or constant on. then fire it up at about 1500 rpm and then take out fuel until it looks stoich and continue to do so until you reach 800rpm idle or whatever your idle goal is, now you can drive and use autotune. hope this helps never used a link but on my safc i just tuned until it idled and could rev to redline without stutering then drove it and adjusted from there via sotp dyno. good luck

It still sounds like a tuning issue to me. If the car starts, runs for a wee bit and then dies, it's most likely your cold start settings. Rx7 injectors are not plug-n-play with the link. RC injectors are. For example: it took an injector offset of 80 to get my Rx7 550s to work right with the Link, while the RC 550s run on the default setting. I adjusted all of my cold/start settings from the defaults. Using a laptop/palm to adjust and save maps makes it far easier to tune. If your changes make things far worse, you can just go back to your previous map. Data Log Lab has a free 30 day trial, and PLink is FREE. But like the Link, they're going to require you educate yourself. - rob

Vac leak or maybe MAP sensor not wired correctly? Did you splice in the right wires to the right place?