turboing my 2000 miata...
 

ok so im gathering parts for my build its going to be stock internals shouldnt be a problem since my car only has 40,000 miles on it in my eyes its still a practically brand new engine lol

so my question is! is there anything special i need to look at while getting ready to turbo the car?
i was on miata.net and that wasnt very helpfull i kept getting heckled for no reason so i gave up on that site...

im running a t25 turbo and building my own exhaust manifold, i co-own a custom harley davison shop here in ohio with my father so i have all the tools you can think of and know-how to get it done...

plan to run a SAFC-II but got told to buy a MS and no one would explain to my what they considered to be a MS???

do i need to run bigger injectors and fuel pump?

anyone else with some help please throw it out please no smart ass comments or anything like that this is my first miata and im just trying to learn and figure things out !

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my car as when i first picked it from the guy in kentucky im now in Cleveland, OH area..

MS is a megasquirt if you didnt know... it's a standalone ECU, it's definatly the best, cost efficient way to run your newly boosted engine.

wether or not you need new injectors is up to you, it depends on your power goal. thats where you should start, decide how much power you want to make. go from there.



oh, and read the DIY FAQ sticky

I am by no means anywhere close to being an authority on this and compared to the knowledge on this board I know very little.

However I am just finishing up my turbo build on my 2000.

I hear great things about using the MS. I have an older Link ECU system. Any standalone ECUs are gonna be $$$ and the MS is completely customizable and cost wise a darn good deal.

I don't know what kind of power you want to make, but your stock fuel pump should be OK to about 260ish H/P. My system uses added injectors along with the stock ones but these guys know what you will need to add for injectors etc. Mine runs an auxiliary fuel rail with 4 additional injectors added to the factory.

Your manifold and down piping will be pretty intense to get right. One it is very tight to configure and two making it last. There happens to be a manifold and downpipe here for sale that may be a way better way to go as far as bolt-up and go. Can't remember what turbo it is for but trust me one of the biggest PIAs I encountered was the whole exhaust/downpiping configuration. Don't forget that it is way easier to do on a stand but WAY WAY different when you are actually trying to make it work in the frame of the car.

Also the inner frame rail may need to be notched to accommodate your set-up. Not sure how you will trial fit this without physically putting it in, measure,check, remove etc.

Mine was EXTREMELY close.

Turbo cooling and oil return lines. Again mock-up with all accessories. Lot of trial fitting and routing there. And I have already learned this with just a few hours use. I used rubber lines with heatfoil wrap. It won't last long. Go with braided stainless. Mine will need to be replaced with braided soon enough.

Don't know what if any you will run for inter-cooler. But again there is a TON of time spent with routing and clearances.

Everything you do routinely will be a lot more difficult after all of this is installed. I had to tighten up my alternator blet after run-up. Took a LOT longer because you have to de-pipe to get clearance to simple things now.

Oh yeah and you will be cutting belly pans etc. Take your time there.

Basically you need to plan on this taking a LOT of time. You need patience, think it all thru and learn to look past what you do to one part may cause an issue with another.

It was a challenge to do mine, but in the end most of the challenge came from having to become familiar with what will cause you problems because your car is new to you.

After finishing mine I can do it again in a 1/3 of the time and do about 5 things completely different than I did.

Be prepared to be without your car for transportation for awhile for this. Once it is in work, you are pretty committed at that point.

I have been working on cars and own High Tech motorcycles that I also work on myself so skill wise I am not a newbie. However you will still find your skills challaged in this.

Good luck and I will be happy to help with anything specific I can for you. I still have un-healed knuckles and hands that I can tell you EXACTLY where they happened from this build. All fresh on my mind......LOL

thanks man i have a couple friends who have turbo'd a miata or two before im just trying to get a grasp on this myself so i can help more then hinder ive been trying to figure this out without being heckled trying to figure out if i need specific parts i havent found anyone using an safc-II just people using AEM ECU's and MS...has anyone tried using the SAFC-II with some views?

SAFC is worthless. Don't even bother looking further into it.

What do the harley guys think about buying a custom bike from a guy who drives a girly car?

omfg

Take that SAFC and insert it firmly into you ass, then once nature has taken its course, sell it on craigslist.

The SAFC is completely useless, all it does is modify the voltage from the AFM in order to change fueling. Unfortunately it also effects timing at the same time.
Its unpredictable and dangerous. It has no place on a turbo miata.

Actually, I just remembered an SAFC wont even work on a 2000. The NB Miatas use a hall sensor instead of a traditional cam angle sensor, and the afc/safc/neo/etc is not able to read the output from the hall sensor. So the engine will not run.
So, ditch the fucking SAFC, its a peice of shit, its useless, and anybody who uses one is an idiot who doesnt know shit about EMS/tuning/etc.

DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT NOTCHING YOUR FRAME RAIL. I have seen disgusting pics of hack job frame rails due to shitty setups, and there is no need to do it. If your turbo doesn't fit, then you need to buy or design a different setup to make it fit.
Your stock fuel pump will be fine, as will your stock injectors up to about 7psi.
You can run stock injectors to about 7psi using a voo-doo box, anything past your stock injector requirements will require a good FMU to control timing and everything else, I.E. Megasquirt, DIYPNP, or a parallel Adaptronic.

Also, that fake non functional roll bar behind your seats won't work with a turbo application, so you need to remove it.

Read the FAQ. It is all there.

And welcome.

i have read this and no offense but some one just coming into the miata world this means nothing talking about MS and Link ECU's and what not means nothing to people unless they can find useful information on them ive gone through their forums and sorry but the write ups mean nothing unless you're already in the world i know honda's and DSM i understand turbo'ing them but miata's are a completely different animal in their own league so i have started to understand the MS and i will be getting one instead of the SAFC for sure especially since it WONT work with my car...

i think ill be running RX7 injectors most likely...

No offense, but quite a few of us turboed our cars off those FAQs. If you don't understand something, google it until you do. The pieces will eventually fall into place and you'll be better equipped to troubleshoot and make improvements if you fully understand the system you put together.

like i said im starting to understand A LOT more! im looking for a megasquirt-II as we speak! will this work with my 2000-LS 5spd 1.8L miata ?

Yes sir, it will.

Look in the stickies in the Miata parts for sale section for Braineak's thread on selling MegaSquirts that he builds. They are a good deal and he has built MANY for forum members.

im trying to save up some money to finish up buying my MS now!!! lol im thinking ill be running 550 or 650 rx7 injectors...

my next question is can some one show me or explain to me the whole GM air temp sensor install or whatever it is??? i see this and just not sure where it installs too

First of all, you sound like a 14 year old girl texting her friends...2nd, the gm iat gets installed in the intake piping, I prefer to put it about 6" from the throttle body. That way you get a precise measurement of what your intake temps are before it enters the engine. 3rd, the only injectors you will need are 550's. I prefer the rx-7 pnp's cause you can score em pretty cheap. 4th and final, the megasquirt is a not really beginner user friendly unit to work with. Find out as much as you can about it before you make a costly mistake. I suggest buying a diypnp unit from braineack. Good luck with your build, and keep this in mind...as long as you listen and learn, me and other members will be more than happy to help. I.E. Don't be a douche, cause we'll all tell you to go f yourself.

not being a dick or anything but where do you get off saying i sound like a 14yr old girl texting her friends? second ive never acted like a douche towards anyone so im trying to figure out where you're coming from with all this ???

The 14 year old girl part came from where you were like "lol I think ill be running...". I just didn't see the humor in the injector size, so what was the "lol" about? I also never said you acted like a douche, I just said don't be one if you want help. No need to get all riled up for nothing.

sorry but no offense you coming in here telling my not to act like a douche bag then contradicting yourself and attacking me saying i sound like a 14 yr old girl word to mouth you attack me then tell me not to act like a dbag? practice what you preach