UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Hey what's up man? Thanks for the offers! I'm going to see if I can make this maf adapter work before I try something else. Where is the dyno? I'm interested in that for sure. I might get some numbers with the stock maf and 1.6 injectors, then again with the rx-7 maf and 1.8s, that would be sweet.

Once this thing is on the road, I'll defintely give you a call. The 16G setup should rock nicely (small, big, evo3??).

Thanks again man, I'll let you know.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Heh, yeah it's debatable at the moment. 1.6!

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Here are the resized pictures for FMIC fitment.


(pic1)
I dropped the radiator the amount you can see.
I moved the AC core with the aluminum spacers. The Starion falls right in!

(pic2)
I made some braces for the radiator support for ease of mind, since the support seemed compromised by the lowering. (not much metal left there)

Note: in the pic, the support is on the wrong side for fitment testing. It's on the other side now, distributing the load between the two holes

EDIT: (pic3) Check the radiator repositioning.

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

How about just taking the AFM off completely? -MAP-

Dange

well its going to be a 16g from an 03 evo 8 (my friend is upgrading turbos)

it is looking great, the dyno is at ia performance, its an awd mustang chassis dyno and the guys there do great work tune with the wideband whatever you need the other thing is the company that helps me out is vivid racing and they can probably get you your couplers

now why did you pick the starion intercooler i was looking at a 26x7x2.5 with a 19in wide core would that not fit? or would you suggest something else? i kinda played with the idea of a near free evo intercooler or a starion or saab 900 but for the slight price increase i though the new one may look better in the mouth being its almost the right size

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

damnit no again my bad. yes i'm flipped. yes it works. no it doesnt matter. i noticed it does change the tension a little bit.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Sweet! I hear nothing but good from IA. I'd prefer mustang numbers even if they don't let you brag quite as much.

Starion I picked because lots of people run it, I heard the 14-row wasn't horrible and I got it for 55 shipped (main reason). I'm sure it's not what we would all call efficient, but it's not garbage either. We'll just have to see what it can do.

The Evo I/C is just too freaking huge. It can be done however, one member here has it installed. I think there are better choices unless you're handy with a welder. There are some good FMIC setups here if you check around. I'd pick up a new one if I were to start over, and I'll replace it eventually.

I'll probably sell it for 55 too

The best advice I have is to start with the manifold / downpipe, then build accordingly.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Damnit! make up your mind!

Ha. Well hot damn, that helps me out.

Thanks for all your help

That sucka's gettin flipped (soon as the LM-1 is hooked to see any changes)

Dange

id like to stop by and see in person how the ic is mounted, i was looking under my hood today and i know i have room for the i/c but have no idea how im going to route my pipes esp with two side outlets,course i didnt stay around too long because i started my car to back it out some and the mosquitos decided to attack... im thinking im going to need quite a few bends whereas the starion has both outlets facing up and at the top. i already have the megan racing manifold picked out and having my friend ad soem braces so it wont crack,

well i decided i love boost, driving around a modded sti all last night... the owner drove my car and said he loves it and i quote "as soon as you get turboed this thing is going to be a tracks wet dream"

IA is great i can be found there bs'ing with them on a weekly basis, well it also helps that i know all the employees its probably around 50 for a good baseline 3 pull with wideband im not sure ill call up gabe and find out for ya

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Forced Performance Big T28 turbo (DSM flange)

This is the turbo I'm trying first. I also have a T25 on the shelf if I want to switch. For info on the turbo, check it out at Forced Performance:

http://linux.forcedperformance.net/m...Code=DSM-Turbo

It flows around 36 lbs/min if I'm not mistaken, not that i'll be close to half that. This turbo takes a stock dsm turbo and modifys it to accept larger turbine and compresser wheels. I do have side by side pictures next to a stock dsm turbo, which I can post here if I can find them somewhere. It's ported to 7cm by FP.

Another turbo pic in vBGarage.

EDIT: added some pics of the turbo placement. I clocked both the center section as well as the compresser housing.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Megan Racing stainless manifold and 2.5" downpipe

Ah, the Megan pieces. Here we go. I'll post with regard to reliability as soon as I have something to say.

First, the downpipe looks half decent, not good, not great, but decent. The o2 bung is poorly placed, but it works and fits ok. They angled the flange to match up with the stock exhausts, but the downpipe is too short anyway and I cut the angle off. I'm sure the wastegate re-introduce is disrupting flow somewhat. It looks to be designed with space and simplicity in mind rather than flow.

Next, the manifold. What can I say, I'm not sure how long it will last. There is plenty of hearsey and a few have had theirs crack. I'm bracing mine in a way yet to be determined. Open to suggestions. If you see a cool brace idea out there, be sure to send it my way.

The turbo flange was a little irregular, but I had to port it to match my turbo anyway, so it was a non-issue. The runners are a little too thin IMO. The gaskets are a joke, they are there so this can be a "kit," and little else. You can see here the placement of the turbo on the outside corner of the manifold, which only adds to the stress it sees.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Tuner Toys braided oil feed line and adapter

I have no factory oil feed port, so I had to buy this kit. FYI, the line is 48" and it's a good 6" too long.

The braided drain is a bad joke. It's too short and worthless. Although it must be said that this kit is non-Miata specific, I still think the drain sucks.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

how long is it? you need at least 18" You could do something like Tom (BrgRacer) did and use a 1/2" threaded pipe in the turbo bung. Just cut it to length and clamp the steel line to that.

UofACATS

iTrader: (1)

Thats a damn-fine idea. I think the hose is 18", but I can't remember where I threw it.

Mine, I have this: "Basic Turbo Drain Line Kit" 10AN Silcone oil hose. 24" length t25/t28.

Found here: http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

It's a nice piece, very thick walled. I ended up cutting off about 4" to fit.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Did you call Corky about couplers yet? He has the prices on the web:

http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/products_hose.html

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

hmmm... zip ties holding on heat shield cloth?

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

Guilty as charged! The drain hose is now far enough away from the manifold that it doesn't get brittle anymore, but I wrapped it with heat shield and didn't have any stainless steel zip ties around so just went with the plastic ones for now. Not pretty but it works. I'll get around to putting stainless zip ties on one day.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I thought you were going to reveal some kind of speed secret to keep plastic from metling. Is there really such thing as stainless zip ties?

getsidewaysd1

How come I see miata people place there bov on the hot side of there intercooler piping? Everything I have ever read, learned, or see the bov is ALWAYS on the cold side?