Upgrading to 1800- Same or bigger Turbo?
Looking for some experienced answers.
and not sure if this should be in the race section or here..? But as stated, we are upgrading the race car to 1800cc built, flowed etc. motor this season. Coming from a built 1600 with T2871rs making 260 whp. It looks like the Turbo will need some attention soon ish (maybe another season) so wondering if we don't put that aside as a backup and buy a new one. Goals are to be around the 6 speed threshold of 340 WHP and associated torque. That also leaves me wondering, do we stay the same and hopefully see some really early boost (and hopefully big time gains out of corners) or go bigger and chase HP. Also for 340 WHP what sort of boost numbers on an 1800 is that around for t28 and whatever other options become apparent..? |
The 2871 should get you close to that power when running between 15-20psi. On my absurdflow setup with a 2871 I was right around 300whp at 15psi.
|
If youre not already.... running a .86 hotside will make your goals much more obtainable. The 71mm compressor is capable of 400whp the hotside will be your limiting factor here. Youll need over 20psi to get to 340whp most likely.
|
just run it as is, and see.
I wouldn't swap turbos or housings until I actually tested it out in the real world. For your goals, I see no reason you need to. a .86 will only make the spool back to 1.6L joke levels. and it's simply not required. Pump the boost to 20psi, and you hit your goal: https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...55/#post821027 |
I think I would get away from a 2871R no matter what motor it were attached to (1.6 vs 1.8). A GTX2867 is going to make the same power and spool/respond better. A GTX2863 would probably hit your power goals and spool/respond substantially better.
An EFR6758 will also make your power goals and spool/respond way better than any of the above turbos. :party: |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1429405)
I think I would get away from a 2871R no matter what motor it were attached to (1.6 vs 1.8). A GTX2867 is going to make the same power and spool/respond better. A GTX2863 would probably hit your power goals and spool/respond substantially better.
An EFR6758 will also make your power goals and spool/respond way better than any of the above turbos. :party: |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1429405)
I think I would get away from a 2871R no matter what motor it were attached to (1.6 vs 1.8). A GTX2867 is going to make the same power and spool/respond better. A GTX2863 would probably hit your power goals and spool/respond substantially better.
An EFR6758 will also make your power goals and spool/respond way better than any of the above turbos. :party: |
The GT2871 was a great turbo when I graduated high school. For some reason, they retain their value due to the nissan/sr20 fanboiz. That was THE turbo to have if you did a SR20 swap. But, I am going to upgrade to a ball bearing turbo from a churbo finally, and with the cost of new garrett turbos, you would be silly if buying new not to buy an EFR. It isn't like it is $1000 dollars difference. Like $100 difference. If you're getting a smokin deal on a garrett that is one thing, but if we are talking turbo upgrade here, I would go EFR all day every day.
That being said, I would keep the turbo on the car as it is, I'm on board with everyone else. Get some VVT and e85 to help with that bottom end a little more. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1429290)
just run it as is, and see.
I wouldn't swap turbos or housings until I actually tested it out in the real world. For your goals, I see no reason you need to. a .86 will only make the spool back to 1.6L joke levels. and it's simply not required. Pump the boost to 20psi, and you hit your goal: https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...55/#post821027 Also that dyno link you sent is nice, looks like full boost around 3900-4000rpm which is really good for a gt2871. I know people love the EFR turbos but the 6758 seems to spool in that same range even though people say " OMG ITS SO MUCH BETTER". So I dont drink the EFR koolade. |
Have you used an EFR before? It's not coolaid. It is a lot better.
But like Lars is saying, OP doesn't need to shell out for all that. I'd also just run the current config and not waste money...yet |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1429490)
Have you used an EFR before? It's not coolaid. It is a lot better.
But like Lars is saying, OP doesn't need to shell out for all that. I'd also just run the current config and not waste money...yet Not saying the EFR sucks Im just not wowed by it either. Sorry for getting OT for the OP. Good luck with your build OP. |
Drive one, you'll be wowed. The improvement is not in spool, but in response. My 6758 repsonds like a 2560R on the road but has enough compressor to make 150whp more power than a 2560R can. My 6258 in the race car is virtually instant, better than my old 2554R in the real world. It is freaky.
|
Isn't spool a way to measure response?
Isn't your point essentially that it spools like a smaller turbo? I'm just a bit confused about how you're differentiating spool and response here. |
No it's not. Boost threshold =/= transient response.
Poast less, read moar, nub |
Off topic is still on topic for me so go for it. I have little knowledge of turbos, so it's all very interesting from this seat :)
For my own future reference, what flange do EFR's use, T2 style? Also down here Holsets seem to be gaining market share and have good support. Only references I have noticed here haven't been particularly good....is that right? I ask because I suspect we'll only get 1 more season out of this turbo....hopefully. edit: also for reference it is mostly race car so quite rare to be under 4k revs but when it is (slow corner, odd gearing) there is time to be gained by having good spool. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1429564)
No it's not. Boost threshold =/= transient response.
Poast less, read moar, nub Ie on/off throttle while driving vs one long pull. But it's physically still measuring spool... Albeit in different conditions. |
holsets are great, but many (most?) of them were made for diesels, have odd configurations, and most (all?) are oversized for a Miata, unless you like street racing freeway pulls lol
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1429513)
Drive one, you'll be wowed. The improvement is not in spool, but in response. My 6758 repsonds like a 2560R on the road but has enough compressor to make 150whp more power than a 2560R can. My 6258 in the race car is virtually instant, better than my old 2554R in the real world. It is freaky.
|
There's 20 years worth of technology and engineering separating the efr from the old garrets. Of course the differences are significant
|
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1430031)
There's 20 years worth of technology and engineering separating the efr from the old garrets. Of course the differences are significant
|
Originally Posted by andyfloyd
(Post 1430035)
Right, but you're still dealing with a larger compressor wheel and larger turbine wheel configuration on the efr when compared to a gt2554r. So it almost defies logic that it'll respond faster knowing how small a 2554r is. On the dyno charts I've seen the efr isn't spooling faster by much if at all than similar sized Garrett turbos. But real world driving on the road is something a dyno can't simulate. I really need to ride in one to truly be sold on it. Sorry I guess I'm kinda skeptical, and kinda love Garrett since I've always had such great luck with them.
This weight difference doesn't make much of a difference when you are spooling the car from its boost threshold at ~1700rpm, since you introduce airflow slowly (as RPMs rise) and the turbo comes up to speed slowly (this is what is coloquially known as "spool"). When you stomp the pedal from 3500 or 4500rpm, though, you introduce a huge amount of airflow very quickly. In the latter case, the rotational inertia of the turbo makes a huge difference. This is what I call transitional response, and because the EFR rotating assembly weighs so much less, it is able to change speed more quickly, and this manifests as substantially improved response. Or, in fewer words, the EFR spinny bits are lighter despite being larger. "Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic." - Arthur C. Clarke |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1430040)
The trickery is in the materials used. The fancy Garretts use an Inconel turbine wheel, the EFR uses a Titanium Aluminide turbine wheel. The two materials have similar high-temp properties WRT strength, but the TiAl wheel in the EFR has half the density. Same size + half the density = half the weight.
This weight difference doesn't make much of a difference when you are spooling the car from its boost threshold at ~1700rpm, since you introduce airflow slowly (as RPMs rise) and the turbo comes up to speed slowly (this is what is coloquially known as "spool"). When you stomp the pedal from 3500 or 4500rpm, though, you introduce a huge amount of airflow very quickly. In the latter case, the rotational inertia of the turbo makes a huge difference. This is what I call transitional response, and because the EFR rotating assembly weighs so much less, it is able to change speed more quickly, and this manifests as substantially improved response. Or, in fewer words, the EFR spinny bits are lighter despite being larger. "Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic." - Arthur C. Clarke |
Modern tech on the compressor side, Garrett is probably on par. As you said, the magic is on the turbine side.
IIRC billet wheels don't actually perform any better, it's mostly a cost savings for low-volume runs which is why they were originally limited to the biggest (i.e. lowest volume) turbos for each manufacturer. The internal BPV is extremely good and very easy to hook up, they do make different springs if you feel the need to tune the cracking pressure for your application. The internal wastegate is also substantially better than the design Garrett and most others use. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1430045)
Modern tech on the compressor side, Garrett is probably on par. As you said, the magic is on the turbine side.
IIRC billet wheels don't actually perform any better, it's mostly a cost savings for low-volume runs which is why they were originally limited to the biggest (i.e. lowest volume) turbos for each manufacturer. The internal BPV is extremely good and very easy to hook up, they do make different springs if you feel the need to tune the cracking pressure for your application. The internal wastegate is also substantially better than the design Garrett and most others use. Well thanks a lot bc now I want one LMAO. Damn you, damn you good sir. I will get by with my gt2560 for a while once I build a motor next year I think I'm gonna go efr, no reason not to really. I saw where bw designed the iwg correctly to actually flow well, I only ever used ewg because the internal wg sucked so bad on mitsu and Garrett turbos. |
this says enough to me:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...vs-efr6258.jpg or listen to wisdom: http://www.flyinmiata.com/uploaded/i...vs2560_155.jpg |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1430049)
this says enough to me:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...vs-efr6258.jpg or listen to wisdom: http://www.flyinmiata.com/uploaded/i...vs2560_155.jpg |
On the compressor side, billet wheels are thinner in the center where they mount on the shaft, have thinner material at the back, and sometimes have thinner blade bases and therefore have much less mass. At least that's what I think I read.
|
6258 vs 6758: The dyno performance is very similar, the 6758 is just that little bit less peppy. I can feel the 6758 hit, sort of like you would feel a 2560R or 2860RS hit. The 6258 is smoother and more linear. I typically say that the jump point is 325whp - if you want 325whp or more, get the 6758. If you're OK with 325whp, get the 6258.
You can also upgrade very easily - the turbine wheels and housings are the same, so you just buy a supercore (CHRA + compressor housing) and swap it in. Same IC pipes, same intake, same BOV, same oil/water lines. Our turbo bits (manifold, downpipe, oil/water lines, upcoming IC/intake/heat shield bits) will fit all the B1 frame turbos which covers everything from 160whp to 500+whp with just a turbo change. |
And....... An efr 6758 costs the like exact same as a gtx2867.
|
Exactly. Not fair to compare to a turbo that is half the price of an efr.
|
Originally Posted by yossi126
(Post 1430131)
Exactly. Not fair to compare to a turbo that is half the price of an efr.
|
I meant that there were comparisons to the 2554/60.
|
What he was comparing was spool/response of the small garrets, power of the big garrets, and price of the new garrets.
the EFR matches or beats all 3. at the same time.. check mate |
What about the new GTX GEN II Garretts?
|
A gen2 GTX sounds nice, but EFR :drool:
IMO, Depends if someone wants to swap their hotside parts or not, and just throw in a slightly better trubo if they already have a garrett setup. |
I can attest to a totally untuned, not a good example, 6258, instant, like 95% N/A response over 3000rpm. it doesn't so much as hit as it does, go. It feels like my Focus ST which has an acorn sized turbo on a 2,0L, but it has 100whp more capable turbo. I honestly wouldn't have it any other way. The response is greatly improved from even a GT3071r on a 3.2L that I drove.
+1 6758 if you need the dyno numbers up a few notches, 6258 if you want crazy, "don't even think about spool time" response. |
So since we are doing all of this comparison, and we have all of the EFR guys here touching nuts....
How does the TD04-13t compare to the 2554 and the 6258 in regards to transient response? I know it has nowhere near the HP capability, but if one is only looking to make 200-220 with the quickest transient response possible, how would it compare? Confession, I will eventually be dropping in a 1.8 and likely ditching the supercharger at that time, but I am really liking the instant boost of the super.... |
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1430536)
So since we are doing all of this comparison, and we have all of the EFR guys here touching nuts....
How does the TD04-13t compare to the 2554 and the 6258 in regards to transient response? I know it has nowhere near the HP capability, but if one is only looking to make 200-220 with the quickest transient response possible, how would it compare? Confession, I will eventually be dropping in a 1.8 and likely ditching the supercharger at that time, but I am really liking the instant boost of the super.... Edit: link https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/moderate-power-1999-a-76499/page6/#post1398266 |
Originally Posted by Lexzar
(Post 1430370)
I can attest to a totally untuned, not a good example, 6258, instant, like 95% N/A response over 3000rpm. it doesn't so much as hit as it does, go. It feels like my Focus ST which has an acorn sized turbo on a 2,0L, but it has 100whp more capable turbo. I honestly wouldn't have it any other way.
I did a session or two in a customer's fully built BP6D (CNC head) making similar power (~205whp) at 6.5psi and it just doesn't feel turbocharged at all. That's not a euphemism, it's just reality - the car responds and reacts like a big V6 would. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:02 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands