Vacuum Canister
 

What is the best thing to do with all the vacuum devices when adding boost to the intake manifold? I would imagine the brakes just stay connected where they are but cruise control, charcoal canister, valve cover breather tube all connect to the manifold but probably shouldn't see boost.

Is a vacuum canister a good idea, or is it better/cheaper to just go with some check valves? Where does one even buy check valves and how many would I need on a C package?

Come on bro. I think you have been here long enough to know what you need to do to find your answers.
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1 check valve, put it between the charcoal canister and intake manifold.

Yes, I've been here long enough to know I search, and when I find 10,000 posts about removing the charcoal canister, which I'm not looking to do, and nothing about a vacuum canister, then I ask my question. :hustler:

What about cruise? Will it shut off or anything if I go into boost while it's activated, or will it just not apply enough throttle to go into boost or something? That one and the two that go to the valve cover are the ones I'm most concerned with.

Because a vacuum cannister is not needed.

I've never ever seen a vacuum cannister used on a Miata before. I have driven and used cruise control on a turbo Miata and it had 0 problems.

* Wow I had to go back and redo that 5 times.

Throw it away and cap everything.

If vacuum canisters aren't needed on miatas, what are they needed for? The friend helping me with my turbo install is all about a vacuum canister, but he is also used to carbureted engines and american cars with a lot of vacuum-actuated accessories.

Emissions. :jerkit:

Ok here's all you need to do to prepare your vacuum system for boost.

Put a check valve between the charcoal cannister and Intake manifold.

Put a check valve between the cruise control actuator and intake manfiold.

Make sure you have an OEM PCV valve from a 323 GTX so you don't pressurize your crankcase.
Get it from a dealer because all 3 I bought from an autoparts store leaked, out of the box.

THAT IS ALL!

^ listen to the above.

I actually put a check valve on my cruise control too, no problems. Don't really know why i did, but it seamed like a good idea. Car still accelerates in cruise, goes into boost in cruise all find. I just think after it gets to boost it think its at atmospheric instead of seeing positive pressure.

You might not want boost to be entering your cruise control actuator, not sure if positive pressure in a device that only expects vacuum is a good idea.

rip out the cruise, rip out the charcoal canister, get urself a catch can....
The End

I like my cruise control, and I'd like to rip out as little as possible. I'll just stick a check valve on the canister, and try to find that boost-ready PCV valve.

Now I just have to figure out how to get 2.5in intercooler pipes past the PS and AC... I KNOW there are threads on that out there.

I hear ya..

Here's mine, which Brain's pics helped me figure out....But I used 2" piping, still was tight with ac/ps tho..might give u a start..
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2727340/4

And here's a build thread, might find some useful info depending on where ur at with the build...
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11075

What do I need for a check valve? Will the ones on ebay for "HHO" work? I looked on Summitracing and they only appear to have large ones for the brake booster.

you just need one that is the right size for the vacuum line and that opens one way and not the other. Nothing fancy for the charcoal cannister.

Get a ball and spring check valve. Should cost you like a dollar at the most. Go to any parts store.

Sweet. I like things I can pick up locally.

Is taking the charcoal canister out safe? As far as I know, its only purpose is to enclose the fuel vapor from entering the atmosphere, and acting as a sort of overflow tank for the gas tank. The charcoal canister, if I remember right controls vacuum and pressure in the gas tank, purging to the intake manifold/ tank when commanded and filling with vapor...seems that it really doesn't affect performance and is a relatively small emission control device. I guess my point is, what is the affect on the gas tank pressures/vacuum if removed? Along with a stock ECUs predetermined calculations for lean/rich when it commands a purge, much like EGR...