Want to build a new turbo manifold.
 

So I've been running the SS custom log mani for a few years now and I think its time to upgrade to something that flows alittle better (need a manifold with a t3 flange anyway for the Holset)

I want to build it myself as I can weld it myself and I like having things other people do not.:fawk:(That plus I'm broke as hell and can't afford to pay someone to weld it lol)

After looking around I've found all the pieces I need for a decent price, now I just need to decide on what style I should go with.

I'm looking at doing something like this Attachment 201143

16 pieces of SS 304 16gauge 90deg bends, a foot or two of straight, a merge collector and some flanges.

Or should I go with a bottom mount like absurdflow with the shorter runners, or make a mini ramhorn like ETD does, so many options.

Plan is to run an external wastegate and 3" downpipe aswell.

So who has opinions or some advice.

btw this will be the first time building one

10 gauge... not 16.

If you have a 1.8 and need a head flange, let me know. I have 3/8 thick in mild and 304 stainless.

Wtf, I'm not building a rollcage here;)

This is actually something I keep running into, some say 304 SS some say 316SS, then there is the .065" 16 gauge or .109" or sch 10....

Tim you wanna chime in on this one?

And yes I will be needing a new head flange in SS, pm price please.

-Dean

I'm not sure why you'd even consider anything less than schedule 10 for a manifold. My manifold is schedule 10 and I wish I had gone schedule 40 for piece of mind.

Man sch 40 (.145") is pretty thick, not to mention heavy, you really think it's necessary?

I thought sch 10 (.109") would be plenty.

Perhaps not "necessary". You may be right on the weight aspect. My schedule 10 manifold is really light compared to the cast iron piece I took off.

Make it out of sch. 10 and find out if it's strong enough. I do not know. Most manifolds out there from *legit builders are sch. 10 I think.

I make mine out of sch. 40.

*by legit I mean people who build these for a living. I don't mean to offend anyone.

Tim, What schedule is my manifold?

Except for yours, which was made out of my old metro exhaust (only the choicest sections). It's a good thing you got it ceramic coated.

I was thinking the exact same thing when I was pondering about making a manifold. I was ready to get 16ga 1.5" bends... and then I saw all the builds having schedule 10.

Full Race ONLY sells schedule 40 and 80 elbows... and I thought 40 was thick enough.

It's not like an exhaust... this piece is constantly going through heat cycles... the expansion...contraction...continuing over and over makes everything prone to cracking.........so go thick.

Oops I just saw this part. 1.8, right? I'll reply soon.

Use sch 10, what Holset are you going to run? This is my HY35 on the mani I just built [IMG]http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/o...x/S7301579.jpg[/IMG]

Sch. 40 is the way. Avoid Chinagates too, TiAL is the way.

He said he is on a budget I dont think he is looking to spend more on a waste gate than a turbo, everything including turbo, down pipe, manifold, waste gate, are filter, bolts, gaskets, flanges and all I did for around $200 and its running now, reliably so far I will hit the track on Feb 12th and reality will speak for its self one way or another.

There's 12 90 degree elbows and 2 45 degree in a ramhorn. You can cut one 90 in half to make the 45s so 13 elbows total (14 you're going to use another one for the WG)

Full race doesn't use sch80. That is extremely overkill. That'd probably weigh over 100lbs.

Don't use 316ss over 304ss, there's no advantage in this application. The superior SS alloy would be 321SS, but it will cost more. You can use 16ga (.065") if you brace the turbo/wg.

It will be interesting to see if the chinaturbo and chinagate make it home alive. I hope you make it, of course.

I dont have a china turbo, its a Holset. But yes it is a china gate. I also never expect to leave the track with a car that is in tact, I always plan for failure that way Im never disappointed.

One more thing to consider is that Holsets weigh about 500lbs so make sure your mani is strong, remember it was made for a truck not a small car.

I'm running the hy35

I won't be running an eBay wastegate, not worth the risk.

I'll def be using atleast sch10 piping.

Gotpsi: how is the hy and how much boost are you running.

Im waiting for it to stop raining right now so I can tune it, I saw 32psi the first time it took it out, it felt like an animal. My Hoosiers where useless in 3rd. Thats when I thought the waste gate was a piece of crap, then I reolized I had my ebc set to not send any signal to the waste gate from my previous set up. Im going to tune for 15-20 we will see how it feels.

You're nuts. A+ for balls.

Cool, I'm going to attempt 21psi

we'll have to compare notes when summer comes around

Ill post up some info soon, looks like the rain might stop this weekend. If I get the suspension finished up and my steering wheel back on I may go out for a ride and post up some data logs. Im shooting for around 320whp or so shouldn't be a problem.

Can these engines REALLY handle that much psi? I know on my volvo S70 T5, we started to blow gaskets at about 18 psi. I only run 12 psi in it.

I'm looking for closer to 375whp as 300whp is likely what I was making last year at 21psi on the 2871, and I finally have a 6spd so no more replacing trannies every weekend haha

Stock? No.

fixed :giggle:

Whose running stock motors these days anyhow?

As for a stock bottom end, there are or have been making close to 400wheel on stock bottoms, for how long is the real question.

Im nowhere near stock, my motor is completely built. I just want the turbo to make power all the way to 8k or so unlike my greddy that fell on its face anywhere after 5500 it pissed me off at the track, I only had about a 1500 rpm power band. This turbo so far seems to spool at the same time as the greddy did but hopefully wont fall on its face.