Wastegate Relocation for clocked GT28r
 

Anyone have pictures of how they did it? From some of the searches, i saw that some drilled and tapped a different location. I just want to see what the results looks like before I just modifying stuff. I couldn't find any pictures.

Thanks for the help.

Call Corky. Order the bracket they make for the wastegate and an adjustable actuator.

It moves it to the exhaust side so you are free to clock the compressor any which way you want.

corky welds the bracket to the compressor housing.

no he doesn't. Not anymore anyway. I've installed 2 Begi kits in the last few months and seen 3 more that have this exact bracket I am talking about. Bolted to the exhaust housing, 1 bolt shaved down to clear a coolant fitting.

Ohhh never saw that piece. Looks cool! That'd solve some issues...

suck my balls paul. :)

Dont BAN me BRO.

lol ^

yea the bolt on my 2560 is just shaved down to fit.

Ive got that same bracket, makes clocking the compressor housing much easier. No drill or tapping needed.

so i will need a new adjustable wastegate?

yes. your current wastegate actuator is stamped to it's bracket. you need a way to bolt it to the bracket. the adjustable is setup for it.

I'm not trying to be cheap or anything (actually, i am), but i am also curious about the feasibility and safety of this idea.

If I cut the bends off the Rod, and reattaching it using this method.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/imag..._wastegate.JPG

I can effectively shorten the Rod. Do you think I can mount the stock wastegate on the back of the compressor housing?

I am concerned about the strength of the threaded Rod. Also, the stock bracket is probably too small to mount on two of the bolts, so I can make a bracket to mount the bracket, kinda like this.

We have four different actuator brackets. Give Corky a call and he can probably find one to fit your needs.
Stephanie

Yeah I guess. Only you can tell if you have room for the actuator because only you have your car, turbo, wastegate actuator, manifold, intercooler plumbing, air filter, coolant lines, oil lines, etc in front of you. But if you make a bracket to fit...then it should fit...right.....I don't get the question obviously.

If your question is whether or not a threaded actuator arm is strong enough, it is.

I just want to see your thought on whether it should work, or if there is something else that I should be concerned about.

Ahh ok. It should work. You should be concerned about it hitting other things in the area. Make sure the actuator bar is coming out of the can straight and not rubbing onto the edges of the hole in the can or bracket you make.