What is this?
 

I am not sure what this is or how to deal with it when building the pipes for my turbo setup? I am running stock ECU with MSD timing control

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/92/img099x.jpg

NM.... after a bit more reading I have found out it's the idle air control and I need to connect it to my pipe coming from the IC into the throttle body.

Not necessarily. If you have an ECU with a MAP sensor you could just replace that hose with a little air filter. But if you still depend on the AFM/MAF then yes it will need to be plumbed to the intake so as not to let unmetered air into the engine.

um no that valve does not hold back boost man if you put a filter on it you will eventualy have an intermitent boost leak. plum it in and be done with it.

I checked my IAC's and they leaked boost while Paul checked his and they didn't. So I always plumb them into the intercooler pipe just to be sure I don't have a boost leak.

not to bring back old topics from the dead, BUT ... has any of the members (koto?) who removed the IAC valve had any idle/driveability issues? I haven't seen any follow up posts.


I'm asking for two reasons:

A, I removed the PS and AC so the only noticeable load at idle should only be the lights.

B, My IAC shit the bed and in a moment of stupidity, I forgot to remove the wax sensor on the intake before having it powder coated so I can only assume that it's junk as well. Considering tossing the whole sha-bang as the car is only driven in summer/early fall months so cold starts aren't a huge issue.

-zach

I only run my IAC for warmup and my car has a rock steady 1000rpm idle. If you dont have AC/PS, ditch that shit and enjoy the simplicity of a mechanical idle.

I have cold-start driveability issues, but I can't say for sure that it's IACV delete related. The main thing that sucks is that the idle goes from an indicated 1k RPM idle to 2-2.2k once warmed up. I suspect my dashpot may have something to do with that though, because if I manipulate it manually it goes back down.

Paul doesn't run an IAC on his current car, with the BEGI cast intake mani and aftermarket 70mm TB. No A/C or P/S and little ol' headlights. He doesn't have issues, but he did want me to make him an IAC plate like I made Ed so he can add it to his system after not having it for a while.

So for a dedicated race car, Can I just block this off to make sure it doesn't leak boost.

I just have an alternator and only run the wideband/ ecu off. No lights, hvac, etc.

You gays need 99 t-bodies because the IAC "ducting" is built internally into the throttle body.