paging Jeffbucc

^ my thoughts exactly :laugh:

Wat

Cliffs Notes: He bakes (bread only nowadays).

Looks like roasted ringland did the turbo in. I've got some big problems on my hands. I don't know about trying again.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...44547974_n-jpg

Aww sheeiz man.

Possibly bad injector? How do the other pistons look?

--Ferdi

Ouch... The bright side if there is any is that this happened at the tail end of the driving season (if VA is anything like Illinois). If you have another car, don't throw in the towel just yet.

that looks like some ...... serious det

Like, it should have sounded like a tin can full of ball bearings for a white det

Yea I was quite shocked at how it didn't leave me on the side of the road spewing smoke and sounding lumpy.

In any event, head is damaged. So...if anyone has a spare 1.8L crank and a BP4W head, please let me know

perhaps now is a good time to move to a vvt head? ;)

Damn man, that's super unfortunate. Sorry you had it go out like that.

In for root cause, this thread is making me shit water :noes:

Have one?

Well, we found out what ate the turbo. Not sure about the detonation cause it still drove and sounded fine. I'll take a look to see if the valve seals were going, maybe some oil was coming in on the intake side of cylinder 4

holy hell, great price. I'd have to ask Brain to modify the ms3x to support and I wouldn't know how to tune it.

I'll start pinging your FS thread

I believe the VVT feature should already be available if you have the MS3X from Brain. This is what i have ubderstood when have discussed it.

If I recall you had an earlier model NA block which as I unfortunately found out takes a bit of extra work to get the crank trigger system to work. The crank trigger system is a requirement for use with the vvt head. I'm also going the route of the built vvt with efr and I ended up just buying a complete vvt engine with all the wiring and such. Looking forward to your updates.

Yea when installing the bp4w I made the mistake of getting a 36-1 trigger wheel so I was never able to run sequential anything since no code was developed for this wheel and cam input.

Props, I did not know that and was planning that in the future. I'm guessing 32-1/12-1 are the best options at the moment? I hear you really don't need a ton more resolution than 12-1.

Oem 4 tooth with the 99-00 code is fine.

Or you have to grind the double nubs for the cam input so it triggers once per rotation and enter the cam and crank tooth #1 angle in manually.