The knockblock is cool because it will output an analog signal with knock, so if you could easily integrate it into either a gauge or an ecu that doesn't have on board knock sensing.

I think you can get a knock sensor for dirt cheap.

Yup. I like the FM one because it goes in place of one of motor mount bolts, but you could roll with a GM one for less $$.

Actually, I have the FM one that came with my (busted) Link, so if anyone needs the manufacturer name and part number, I'll get it.

and then abruptly stop :gay:

the FM sensor is a typical bosch unit found on saabs (among others). They will sell that knock sensor specific motor mount boss/bolt separately. It's the perfect solution IMO as it places the sensor below the crank centerline. I'm using one and had my sensor located all over the side of the block- with the near the front being the noisiest, and the lower motor mount (FM locale) the least noisy.

I think I"ve heard, its a rappid banging sound, that one day when someone sabotaged my miata for destruction lol , its like marbles kicking the shit out of a metal can, when oil was near gone thats when it started, somtimes can be heard under really heavy load, maybe If I didnt listen to so much damn loud rock music I could hear better :)

You confirmed that your link is toast? Was this a new or used unit?

Bummer.

Jay

It's believed to be faulty, pending analysis by Jeremy. So I'm sending it back to FM.

At least they didn't tell you that it was a user error and get bent :) Doesn't help your situation any. Mine still sitting in my basement waiting for the weather to get nice.

well they also haven't called back with my RMA # so......
:x:

i found a link with 550s on ebay,right now its only $100.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-...QQcmdZViewItem

god dammit i hate you who ever is selling that why is it as soon as i buy something a better deal comes up :( atleast he sounds like a duche and wont end early. oh well it isnt that much of a better deal.

ahh well I wouldn't sweat it bro, there is always better/cheaper/faster. and it's missing all the sensors. to put it in perspective, the Link board is ~55% the total cost of the Link. You also need the IAT, MAP, and Knock sensors, and also the boost control solenoid, which are probably $400-500 total. Plus he's showing the closed case, who knows what's really inside, and if it's really a Link board, it will need a chip update. :dunno:

Also, I'm not sure what those 4 wires exiting the ecu case are for.

FWIW, I'm sold on the J&S Ultra Safeguard units. If you don't want to buy new, you can find them used for ~$250 if you're willing to wait.

John also gives great support. I sent mine to him for some custom programming that I requested to work with my Autronic ECU. Got it back a week later and it works great.

The knock sensor on my TEC2 was completely useless. So much background noise that you couldn't see minor knock. Same problem when I tried to use det cans. The knock was already pretty bad by the time I could hear it over the rest of the engine. Any 'dumb' knock sensing system is going to have the same problem. You need a system that looks for knock only when it's likely to happen in the combustion cycle.

Now I THINK that the TurboXS knocklite does use a detection window, but it still counts on you seeing it and reacting to it. I also don't like how you can't directly adjust the sensitivity on it. The J&S can correct knock so fast that I don't even notice it on the monitor, but my datalogs show that it pulled timing.

When I forgot to export the emanage map my car knocked really bad. It didn't sound like marbles, more like a faint rod knock. I heard it when I was taking off from a dead stop, I pulled over right away, exported the map and it went away.