Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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-   DIY Turbo Discussion (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/)
-   -   whats missing from my turbo on a 1.6 (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/whats-missing-my-turbo-1-6-a-25280/)

Michael Burns 08-24-2008 09:37 PM

whats missing from my turbo on a 1.6
 
Hey, new to miatas all around, current have a 97 turbo gst and a TT 5.0.. Those turbo kits were both isntalled by a pro but I am going to take a whack at installing it (with help that can install) but piece by piece...
In preperation for the turbo all I really did was upgrade the throttle body to a 1.8+the injectors to a 1.8, I have a 255 fuel pump & adjustable fuel regulator.....thats the preperation..as far as the kit...
I have a 1.6 manifold and downpipe for a t25 turbo. I have my td05 turbo from my eclipse before I upgraded that one.. I have a fmic & piping kit I know I will need the oil lines, gaskets etc.. what I don't know is the turbo to air filter. I know I will need a filter and possible a maf adapter but will that cover where I have to plug in the hoses out of the maf? is the 1.6 already maf? or will i need that. I really know nothing about the miata yet. I need to get power under the hood... I was passed by a civic like I was standing still and that hurts.

Michael Burns 08-24-2008 09:42 PM

oh yea, flowmaster exhaust and a super afc/electric boost/tt&volt meters+boost/airfuel/oilpsi/and digital rpm gauge. Z3fenders with a BIG hood scoop. . .not that this stuff matters too much but I can't see how to post a picture yet so ya'l get a visual..flowmaster makes it sound too obnoxious so I may change out that.

curly 08-24-2008 10:30 PM

your volt meter is most likely why you're so low on power, take it off and you'll gain ~50hp.

you need to get rid of the 225 and get the 190lph, a wideband (for some reason I think your 'airfuel' gauge is narrow) oil lines (feed and drain) and something to control your timing. you'll go from the filter to the AFM, to the turbo, not MAF.

P.S. you're going to get flamed for not starting in the newb section, be ready.

mazda/nissan 08-25-2008 09:52 AM

yeah 1.6's have MAF 1.8's have AFM. Pick up an RX7 MAF

Braineack 08-25-2008 10:21 AM

read my faq, that'll help get your started.

cardriverx 08-26-2008 12:08 PM


Originally Posted by mazda/nissan (Post 300629)
yeah 1.6's have MAF 1.8's have AFM. Pick up an RX7 MAF

other way around.

miatamania 08-26-2008 01:33 PM


Originally Posted by cardriverx (Post 301130)
other way around.

:bowrofl:

mazda/nissan 08-26-2008 02:18 PM


Originally Posted by cardriverx (Post 301130)
other way around.

well I'm still not sure, I was basing my order on the assumption that the M in MAF was mechanical, not mass. Thought I had read mechanical somewhere. Oh well i was wrong. Yeah look under brain's FAQ, lots of info there.

psiturbo 11-20-2008 07:50 PM

Well, I was passed by a Civic with a B18C5 and a CRX with a K20 (or K24) engine, mine seemed as if it had only one cylinder running. I even pulled to the side of the road to make sure my car was running "fine".

lordrigamus 11-20-2008 08:08 PM


Originally Posted by psiturbo (Post 332584)
Well, I was passed by a Civic with a B18C5 and a CRX with a K20 (or K24) engine, mine seemed as if it had only one cylinder running. I even pulled to the side of the road to make sure my car was running "fine".

Briggs & Stratton swap Miata?

dynokiller90 11-20-2008 11:57 PM

"you need to get rid of the 225 and get the 190lph"

Just curious what the reasoning for that would be?
I've been running the 255 since '04 and have had no ill effects.
reason I ask is that I've heard many people give the same advice, but never a good reason to make the switch.

O.P. ditch the super afc unless you're just using it for the guages. the amount of change it'll make to your map is so very minimal that it's just about worthless. it's not that the afc is not a good product, just not a good product for a miata. there just isn't much head room in the factory computer for adjusting the pulse widths.

exactly what kind of adjustable fuel pressure reg are you going to use? just adjustable isn't quite going to cut it. you need something that is boost referenced somewhere between 5 and 8 lbs of fuel per lb. of boost.

Braineack 11-21-2008 10:51 AM


Originally Posted by dynokiller90 (Post 332677)
"you need to get rid of the 225 and get the 190lph"

Just curious what the reasoning for that would be?


most have found, that unless you have a 99-00, it provides to much flow into the rail and overloads the FPR. Instead of maintain fuel around 35-48psi, you may see a static 50-60psi. This will cause you to run rich out of boost.

Joe Perez 11-21-2008 11:16 AM


Originally Posted by mazda/nissan (Post 301200)
well I'm still not sure, I was basing my order on the assumption that the M in MAF was mechanical, not mass.

Technically, MAF = Mass Airflow Sensor (1.8), and VAF = Volume Airflow Sensor (1.6.)

This business with calling it an AFM is the root of much confusion. They're both Airflow Meters, it's just that one measures volume (which is temperature and pressure dependent), and the other measures mass (which is not.)


To answer the OP: the 1.6 Miata uses a mechanical VAF sensor, and it is not interchangeable with the MAF sensor that came on in '94.

That said, I wholeheartedly disagree with your entire approach to this. Unless you are completely phobic of computers and wiring, I'd strongly suggest that you sell off your AFPR, your fancy fuel pump, your SuperAFC and your 1.8 injectors, and instead install a proper engine management computer with correctly sized injectors, and leave the fuel system alone.

XxGoKoUxX 11-21-2008 11:40 AM

where the mother fuck is hustler when u need him?

Brian-bbc 11-21-2008 07:00 PM

and a tuner toy fuel rail

kotomile 11-21-2008 07:17 PM


Originally Posted by ca18det (Post 333010)
and a tuner toy fuel rail

Those are a nice touch, but not necessary.

dynokiller90 11-22-2008 12:10 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 332803)
most have found, that unless you have a 99-00, it provides to much flow into the rail and overloads the FPR. Instead of maintain fuel around 35-48psi, you may see a static 50-60psi. This will cause you to run rich out of boost.

That makes sense. I guess I never ran into any problems because I quickly ditched the factory regulator. I never saw the point of using two so it was replaced with an A/N fitting.


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