Where do you run the oil feed line from On a 94 1.8
 

Im sourcing out my engine bay and finalizing everything in the next two months, First I need to locate the oil feed on the block, where would I find this, secondly what length for the oil feed and return lines is recommended for a miata( the turbo is a t25 off a sr20), 3rd whats the best recommended place to buy these lines and Could I possibly find them in a local shop, maybe auto parts store or somthing of the sort, Is it recommended to go stainless with the water lines. And last but not least if I were to use an emanage along with a vortech fmu with a 6:1 disc would that better manage things rather than using the em alone with mk2 light green back injecters.

Note: Im only looking for advice and recomondations , Not looking for anyone to do my homework for me, I only ask for a share of knowledge:bigtu:

Screw SS return lines. Just use High Temp Silicone and call it a day.

$35 (for everything you need) vs. $45 (for just the line)

TA044 (18" should be enough, but you'll want more and cut it down just in case)

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/trboil.html


I'm pretty sure my feed line is from them too. (Although our pan uses a m10x1.5, not 1/8" npt, but I really think I may have used the 1/8" NPT to -4AN fitting, the sizes are super close to each other)

Either way, you can get both your lines and everythign you need. You'd just want to source a new block to feed line fitting.

where Could I find high temo silicone , I heard that silicone hose was'nt the most relible to use when turbocharging a car, from What I've been told by a few ss lines are recommeded for the feed lines to the turbo due to high temps, aparrently silicone plumbing is more prone to failure, then again I've never had expirence with them so I can only go off oppinons.

Is'nt there a oil feed located around the oil filter that a line can be drawn off of for the feed?

There is a bolt near your dipstick where you can tap your oil feed. I'm sure there's a thread that talks about this procedure. If not, I can send you FM's install instructions.

I've never bought from them, but you might try ATP Turbo: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL

Personally, I used Earl's Auto-Flex SS hose in -10AN size purchased from my local speed shop. I wanted to be able to use proper AN hose ends both on the turbo drain (straight) and into the pan (90 degree) and doing it this way made for a very clean install. Also, using the SS Hose and ends made it possible to "pre-tension" some twist into the hose when locking it down, which made it easy to clear the coolant and power steering lines and yet still have a very short, unencumbered drain line. I have some pics at home which I'll try to remember to post this evening.

1) Your '94 has an oil feed fitting on the driver's side of the black, right near the tranny bellhousing...it's right above or below (can't remember) a coolant fitting in the block that's also not used on our cars. I think in '95 they stopped drilling/tapping this oil feed fitting in the blocks, then you'd have to tee off the oil pressure sending unit near the oil filter.

2) braineack is suggesting using high-temp silicone for the turbo oil drain, not the feed line. You'll need the stainless steel line for the feed, as it's under pressure.

But that feed source is only located On the 1.6 block is'nt it? , If you can send me fm's istall for a 1.8 that would be helpful

It's also on the 94-95 block. 96-97 are the years mazda removed this feature.

ok so the source is on the drivers side back of the block, ok that works, for that to work does there need drilling or somthing of the sort to access that tap for the oil feed...what would be easier to do off a 1.8 tee of the oil pressure unit and run the feed of of that?

really???:bigtu: I had no clue, I thought they stopped that feature in 93

Nope, there's no drilling involved. All ya gotta do is remove a bolt and install your oil feed line.

You need to drill the pan though.

Maybe you should look over these:

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/begi4install.pdf

oh ...sweet deal, Maybe this is'nt as complicated as I making it out to be, Ok that solves that issue , now the water lines can be run of the coolent routing around the front of the block right, would you tee off that for both water lines of the turbocharger

Yes, flow doesn't matter, so tee into the line and route it back.

That I know I need to do, Im looking for sombody you has to appropriete hardware to tackle this task...I possibly need to find a shop to do this...I can't find anyone that I know that has the tools to do it myself, any idea how much a tap job would cost me to get done?:confused:

The cost of shipping (and return) for me to send you a drill bit and tap that matches the JGS 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting you are going to buy, some JB Weld and about 15-30 minutes of your time. All you need is a power drill and socket. If you dont have those.....

A shop could do it, but why. You'll have to drive it up, drain your oil pan, then have them do it. Wait for it to cure (24hrs), and then fill it back up with oil and take it home.

Trust me, this is a 5 minute job and can be done with a hand drill, tap and bit. Just take your time.

ok Im pretty sure I can find a drill for cheap at a local pawn shop, does it haft to be a specific drill? I just need to make sure Im buying the right things so I don't waste money On things i can't use :)

I bought all my fitting and return line through FM and it came will a drill bit and tap. I don't remember the exact cost, but it really was not too expensive and comparable to other vendors. This beats running around to your local hardware stores looking for the right size bits, taps, fitting, etc...

The only thing to keep in mind when drilling your oil pan is the oil pick up line. This is explained in FM's install instructions.