Who's done a coolant reroute?
#68
Most of these guys use the coolant source that's at the throttle body and then runs across the front of the engine. If you're a 1.6 there's that boss on the back of the head that Uncle A mentioned. Or you could just T off your heater core source - or just use a reducer if you've ditched the heater.
#69
Heater will be getting ditched, so the only coolant lines will be from the head to radiator and from the radiator to the block.
My fear is sending too much coolant into the turbo, i can't remember if its designed to handle pressures or a trickle or what. I think it can handle any coolant i send its way... but it makes me nervous
My fear is sending too much coolant into the turbo, i can't remember if its designed to handle pressures or a trickle or what. I think it can handle any coolant i send its way... but it makes me nervous
#70
Heater will be getting ditched, so the only coolant lines will be from the head to radiator and from the radiator to the block.
My fear is sending too much coolant into the turbo, i can't remember if its designed to handle pressures or a trickle or what. I think it can handle any coolant i send its way... but it makes me nervous
My fear is sending too much coolant into the turbo, i can't remember if its designed to handle pressures or a trickle or what. I think it can handle any coolant i send its way... but it makes me nervous
#72
Sorry Stephanie, but it does affect heater warm-up time. The coolant reroute that I did sends the coolant from the heater back to the rad like yours does. It now takes about 3 times as long for the heater to get hot after a cold start.
Once the car is warm, there is no difference in heater function.
Once the car is warm, there is no difference in heater function.
With the re-route it takes my car about 2 to 4 more miles to warm up. But once it is warm, the operating temps during cruise and on boost are about 5 deg. C less than before.
Stephanie
#73
My coolant reroute consists of a Gates 28473 5/8" hose (60" + 90degree leg at 4 ") from the heater return to a tee 1.25X1.25X5/8 (from Jags that run) in the upper radiator hose, plus a 5/8 Dorman cap for the normal heater return hardpipe.
The car (2003 NA) no longer overheats, but sometimes takes too long to warm up and throws a corresponding MIL code. Not a problem on warm days. Temps have gone from regular boilover to below 200F. {I just got the ODB code reader (ELM327 bluetooth to Torque on an android phone)to reset the codes, but it also reports temps.}
My next step would be to replace the Thermostat in the front housing with a restrictor and place an inline thermostat after the T in the upper radiator hose. Somehow, it just doesn't seem right to me to have heated water not being cooled.
The car (2003 NA) no longer overheats, but sometimes takes too long to warm up and throws a corresponding MIL code. Not a problem on warm days. Temps have gone from regular boilover to below 200F. {I just got the ODB code reader (ELM327 bluetooth to Torque on an android phone)to reset the codes, but it also reports temps.}
My next step would be to replace the Thermostat in the front housing with a restrictor and place an inline thermostat after the T in the upper radiator hose. Somehow, it just doesn't seem right to me to have heated water not being cooled.
#75
my coolant reroute we done this diy aboyt 2 years ago
my car now with reroyte system
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
and this fotos is the oldest who has inside all the materials to do this diy
http://img193.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc07720s.jpg
my car now with reroyte system
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
and this fotos is the oldest who has inside all the materials to do this diy
http://img193.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc07720s.jpg