x8mrxjohn8x's Build Thread
Hello. I planned to turbo my miata about 2 years ago but felt that I didn't have the knowledge required to go through my build. After 2 years of reading through this forum, I am starting to build my turbo miata.
I have about 2 weeks to finish my build. I will be driving this car to UCSD for college and school is around the corner. I already finished installing these: raceland coilover, 460cc injectors, MSPNP, 6uLs 1st gen, artech exhaust, cat back, and highflow cat, IAT sensor. I pretty much have everything I need to finish the install. How do I post pictures directly on the forum page so that people will not have to click the small attachment to expand the picture? I bought the wrong turbo and the 5 bolt exhaust flange on the turbo won't fit the downpipe flange artech made for me. So, I am guessing that the turbo I bought is a different 5 bolt flange. I will continue to post as soon as I learn how to post up pictures. |
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Attachment 194616
Testing if the picture was added. This is how my car looked when i first bought it. I forgot to take a picture of the whole car. |
Nice cut through the radiator support.
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Attachment 194609
Old stock exhaust manifold is off. I will be running a topmount setup so I can keep PS and AC Attachment 194610 this is my simple log manifold built by artech. Attachment 194611 All this is going in very soon Attachment 194611 My dual exhaust built by artech again. It is too heavy when mounted and slants to one side so I need to make another hanger. Artech warned me about the problem beforehand. Attachment 194613 This is my turbo flange and downpipe flange. Both look idenitcal but the Downpipe flange is smaller than the turbo's flange. Can anyone lead me to a chinacharger turbo that has a similar flange as my downpipe?? Attachment 194614 Attachment 194615 I will need alot of help from all of you guys because this is my first project ever and my skill in auto mechanics isn't the greatest. |
those exhaust parts....mmmmmm:drool:
the flanges could be different due to some chinachargers having a weird one off 5 bolt design while artech made your dp with the traditional t25 5 bolt flange My godspeed turbo doesn't work with any traditional t25 dp flange. Same size, and very similar in design, but just a BIT different. Enough to confuse the hell out of you and frustrate you..lol |
Originally Posted by Larimer
(Post 625196)
Nice cut through the radiator support.
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Originally Posted by x8mrxjohn8x
(Post 625182)
I will be driving this car to UCSD for college and school is around the corner.
Good to see another boosted miata will be hitting the streets of SD soon! I myself just sold my SR s14 and am in the market for a cheap NA project to work on. Looks like yours is coming along nicely :D What are your power goals? Best of luck with the build, I'll be following along with ya'. Maybe by years end we can cruse up through del mar and PCH. |
@BewstinSDx5
It's going to be my first year at UCSD. I am a transfer student. My power goals is 180hp. I know with the stuff I have, I can probably reach way higher goals, but I just want a reliable street car for now. I will probably be up and down PCH with my top down every weekend. =) |
If i install a wideband o2 sensor, does that mean I no longer need the stock o2 sensor?
I finished drilling my oil drain hole today so glad that's over with. |
Originally Posted by x8mrxjohn8x
(Post 625649)
If i install a wideband o2 sensor, does that mean I no longer need the stock o2 sensor?
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Originally Posted by turotufas
(Post 625651)
If the megasquirt is in then you don't.
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To add, a WBo2 is really only a necessity when it comes to tuning, and if you want to monitor your A/F ratio. Remember, the further downstream your sensor is mounted, the less fluctuation or readings you will get.
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Where's the "take this advice with a grain of salt" icon?
You can replace the narrowband o2 with the wb02, MS needs one or the other. It doesn't just use MAP to adjust the "A/F changes" (pulsewidth), it can take in mind the a/f ratio it's reading and make adjustments in order to achieve more ideal ratios. It is true, once you are tuned you don't "need" the o2, but there's no reason to not keep it installed 24/7 and keep closed loop fueling ON. The further downstream the sensor, the less the exhaust heat can damage the sensor. You want to put it before the cat but far enough away from the turbo so the heat does not shorten the lifespan of the sensor. |
Just so I can get this straight, are you saying that one should leave the downstream narrowband o2 in place, and install the wbo2 before the cat? I have had my wideband installed completely independent of the ecu before....whether that was right or not idk...
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I finally got around to install the downpipe and manifold. I had to remove the bracket that was holding the stock exhaust. One bolt wouldn't come loose so I cut the whole metal piece off.
I test fitted the turbo and everything seems like it will fit 100%. Here is a picture of the downpipe and manifold in. Attachment 194389 Now I have some questions, do you guys think that the intercooler is too low positioned? I know this intercooler is a little big to have, considering I will be keeping AC and PS. But, I already had this intercooler from a long time ago and do not want to buy another one. Attachment 194390 Attachment 194391 Attachment 194392 |
if anyone ever had an issue with putting their intercooler too low, please enlighten me.
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that shouldn't be too low, but I'd raise it as much as you can, even make it not centered if you have to.
take mine for example: looks good straight on: http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...79+_Large_.JPG at an angle: http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...78+_Large_.JPG there's a lot of runners that aren't directly exposed |
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It took me about an hour and a half to make the intercooler mounts. It isn't perfect like something joe will do, but it works. Got the idea from FM. Anyways, going to buy some more aluminum pipes tomorrow to finish my intercooler system.
Attachment 194368 |
Thanks for verifying Braineack. My intercooler is almost in the exact position as yours.
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Tomorrow I will be installing my LC1 wideband and gauge. Before I do so, I always like to verify that what I plan on doing is correct before actually doing the job.
To install my LC-1: 1. The red wire (12V power source) is going to the white/pink wire on my fuel pump relay as pictured below http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...n8x/wiring.jpg 2. The blue and white wire will be grounded right on the chassis where the ecu mounts to the floorboard. 3. Yellow wire is going to MS. 4. Brown wire is going to DB gauge 5. Black wire (pretty sure I know how to hook this up) For the gauge: 1. Can the red wire also be soldered to the pink/white wire on the fuel pump relay? 2. Black (ground) grounded to the same ground as white wire of LC-1 3. white wire will be connected to the brown (output 2) lc1 wire. 4. The yellow wire, does this wire have to be connected to the headlight power wire or can I just connect it to any 12v power source so the gauge can be lit up brightly whenever the car is on? |
Is the ground for the ecu (92') in the *passenger side or driver side* rear of the cylinder block? I think more people had/have success with the ecu ground.
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nevermind, I found my answer for my ECU grounding points.
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I’m reviving my thread after having my car sit for a good half a year.
I finished the hot side part of the turbo. This includes fitted turbo, manifold, lines, intercooler, and downpipe. What I need to finish is (have several questions): 1. Get my bumper cut for the dual exhaust and add another exhaust hanger because my magnaflow muffler is too heavy. 2. Mount BOV, IAC hose, and IAT sensor on cold side (on intercooler piping between throttle and cold side of intercooler). Would it be okay to mount the IAT Sensor at this location? 3. Hook up Electronic Boost controller Instructions http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/e...kit-p-285.html Do I have to drill a hole at the spot (pictured below) and use this as my boost source? Is there any alternative way? Do I just drill and weld a nipple on there? 4. Hook up my gauges, boost gauge 5. Start car (hopefully) Also, how do I know if i need a oil restrictor I have this turbo http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T25-T...Q5fAccessories Attachment 188798 Attachment 188799 |
I will get up pictures of what I've done so far tomorrow.
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I would recommend putting your IAT sensor much closer to the outlet of the intercooler, and putting the boost source nipple where you originally wanted to put the IAT sensor.
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4 Attachment(s)
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Attachment 188768 Attachment 188769 Attachment 188770 Can you guys help me answers the rest of the questions I asked above. Thank you |
edit: nevermind i'm an idiot, excessive drinking plus forum advice shouldnt mix, looks like youve already fixed your grounding issues, i didn't see the dates on the post.
Anyways, as far as your other questions go... read through THIS thread for boost source and iat position. To sum it up though... Both should be post intercooler, pre throttle body for best results. The iat position in your picture is perfect but alot of people put it in the cold side intercooler end tank for ease of installation. The first picture that you refer to iat position would however be a perfect place place for your boost source. If you put the boost source were you asked about, the wastegate will be seeing more pressure than the throttle body sees (due to it going through the intercooler) and opening the wastegate "prematurely". It explains why in that thread. Short version: IAT can be anywhere after the intercooler and before the throttle body. Boost pressure source can be anywhere after the intercooler but benefits from being as close to the throttle body (before it though) as possible. |
well after a year or so, I finally plan on having my car tuned 2 weeks away from now. I have this turbo:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T25-T...d=246139424211 If i plan on running 8psi or 10psi, what kind of numbers do you think I should expect? |
160-200, Proly make 160 on the wastegate at 7psi closer to 200 on 10psi, who knows though.
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