A digital dash in a gauge sized package
 

DIYAutoTune.com is now carrying a digital dash that fits in the space of a conventional gauge!

https://www.diyautotune.com/wp-conte.../PT-Can-ga.jpg

It can display up to eight sensor readings at once. Plus, this gauge monitors almost all your ECU’s sensor readings, and can interrupt its display to switch to a warning message if you run into an unsafe condition such as overheating, leaning out, and more available warnings. Works with all ECUs in the MS2 and MS3 family, and also has three built in analog inputs.

The NEW Perfect Tuning 24x Multicolor OLED Universal Gauge is enclosed in billet aluminum and boasts a real carbon fiber face plate! On-board LUX sensor auto-adjusts for day/ night time viewing.

Perfect Tuning Universal Gauge at DIYAutoTune

I was just looking at one of those a few weeks ago. Does it communicate over CAN?

Looks like it. "The gauge can also be connected to up to 3 sensors with the 3x 0-5v analog inputs and can be used as an expansion board. This means that if there is a sensor connected to the gauge, the ECU can read it over CANBus, display it in TunerStudio and datalog the value"

I really hope that you can change the font to something other than Comic Sans.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3e19ae4009.png


:bowrofl:

+ :likecat:.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8cf4d89e0d.png





+:likecat:

Yes, the current firmware lets you use several different fonts.

Hallelujah!

Since CAN is still pretty much evil sorcery in my mind, can anyone please tell me which output is CAN H and which is CAN L on a non- PnP, DiY prebuilt MS3? The manuals show the two outputs in the wiring diagram/list, but I can't for the life of me find where the two are differentiated?

If the guides were followed, pin 3 is CAN High and pin 4 is CAN Low on the MS3 connector. Make sure you have the jumpers JS6 to SPR1 (CANH) and JS8 to SPR2 (CANL) on the main board.

Thank you! I bought it built from DiY, so I hope the guides were followed! :p

I'll pull it and check the jumpers when I install the gauge.

I'm sure Matt will respond to be sure sure, but the product page for the assembled V3.57 MS3x says it's setup for CAN. If you want to be sure and don't want to pull it apart, just use a multimeter to check resistance over pins 3 and 4 and it should be 120 ohms.

These gauges do look "purdy" but after installing the PLX Device's gauge in my car many moons ago, which is a good looking multi-coloured LCD at night time, I found I could only read the gauge with the top down during the day if I displayed white text on a black background - the digital analog gauges were pretty but totally useless.
Other colours were unreadable when the sun was overhead and there was too much glare on the gauge when the sun was behind me or from certain angles - and this was with the display mounted in the OEM CLT housing.
The gauge was OK with the roof up though and at night time but since I live in Queensland (similar weather to Florida), the roof stays down most of the time.

More info here in my Garage Thread: Lokiel's "Gina" - PLX Gauges installed

After the PLX Devices experience I decided to make my own using OLEDs instead, not as sexy as LCDs but they're much more readable in daylight with the top down (a hell of a lot cheaper too since I didn't have to buy a separate pressure box, temperature box and Wideband O2 box).

There's a reason why aftermarket monochrome dashboards, such as those by RaceLogic, still dominate, they're readable in all lighting conditions.

Thanks again!
I was so busy looking for the specific info on the outputs I didn't even think to look at the product page.... derp.

I have one in my car and have for the last year or so. I love the thing. It has led to me ditching my three gauge single din panel.

My only complaint is yes... It is hard to read in the daylight especially when the sun is at your back. I fight that by using white as my text color on important stuff.
Oh, and it doesn't fit in a single DIN height. It's actually bigger around but it fits perfect in the vent.

This is before switching the font to something other than comic sans:

The Perfect Tuning documentation only lists AFR as one of the channels that can be broadcasted, but the DIY product page lists AFR1 and AFR2. Just confirming that both AFR1 and AFR2 can be displayed since that's one of the main reasons I sold my Racepak. Also, it notes Generic Sensor 1 and Generic Sensor 2 can be displayed. Does the calibration from Megasquirt get broadcasted, or will it transfer to the Perfect Tuning gauge as a voltage or ADC and then have to be calibrated in the setup? I think I'll be able to integrate this in place of the stock oil pressure dummy gauge, taking a 3d scan tonight to see if it'll work.

I'm guessing it's a standard 52mm gauge so it WON'T fit in the instrument cluster.
When I had the PLX Devices gauge installed in my CLT gauge slot, I dis-assembled it from the housing to fit it in there so it requires a bit of "dicking around".

I'm also guessing that the gauge uses MS CAN 11-bit Simplified Dash Broadcasting so if you look at CAN ID 1515 in Section 1.1 it'll probably be the raw value multiplied by 10 (eg. if temperature is 123*, it'll be broadcast as "1230"). If this is the case, the gauge software will assume this (well it SHOULD, that's what I'd default it to), otherwise you will need to configure it in the gauge App. This format supports AFR1 only though.

If the gauge uses the Advanced Real-Time Data broadcast format (see Section 2 of the above link), generic inputs have the same broadcast format and this format supports both AFR1 and AFR2 outputs.

Please post you findings to confirm what it actually uses.

This uses a 52 mm mounting circle and uses the 29 bit CAN, not the simplified 11 bit.

Mine was supposed to arrive today, but USPS is worthless... :vash: