1/4 mile (12.98 @ 106 w/10psi)
06-17-2008, 07:59 PM
#1
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1/4 mile (12.98 @ 106 w/10psi)
Excuses first:
-poor driving
-warm weather (92°F, 55%RH)
-5 year old BFG drag stones
-only 10psi for some odd reason
-2490lbs total
(it appears that photobucket has been hacked)
60' 1.915
1/8 8.3458@84.70
1/4 12.981@106.26
Some minor line lock action:
-poor driving
-warm weather (92°F, 55%RH)
-5 year old BFG drag stones
-only 10psi for some odd reason
-2490lbs total
(it appears that photobucket has been hacked)
60' 1.915
1/8 8.3458@84.70
1/4 12.981@106.26
Some minor line lock action:
Last edited by dvcn; 06-17-2008 at 08:54 PM. Reason: missing timeslip info
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06-17-2008, 08:51 PM
#6
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It's just that mathematically for the weight and mph (I trapped 108mph on the last run with a horrible 60') I should have been in the 12.6x range.
Ouch!
Fine, here's the whole story:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11402
Cliff Notes:
1996 1.8 & Torsen w/ 197K miles in a bent 91 chassis
eBay Chinacharger T3/T4
Chinese exhaust manifold
Tial 38mm wg vta
full 3" exhaust, Dynomax straight through
eBay 18x12x3 core intercooler
new gen HKS SSQV bov
6spd (thanks Ben!)
standalone ecu
Walbro 255/550's/diy single feed rail/Mallory 4309 regulator
line lock
Average 26-29mpg, 31mpg when attempting to drive nicer. Autox as much as possible.
About one year and 8500 miles on most of this setup.
Ouch!
Fine, here's the whole story:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11402
Cliff Notes:
1996 1.8 & Torsen w/ 197K miles in a bent 91 chassis
eBay Chinacharger T3/T4
Chinese exhaust manifold
Tial 38mm wg vta
full 3" exhaust, Dynomax straight through
eBay 18x12x3 core intercooler
new gen HKS SSQV bov
6spd (thanks Ben!)
standalone ecu
Walbro 255/550's/diy single feed rail/Mallory 4309 regulator
line lock
Average 26-29mpg, 31mpg when attempting to drive nicer. Autox as much as possible.
About one year and 8500 miles on most of this setup.
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0
06-18-2008, 12:08 AM
#10
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iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 4,667
Total Cats: 18
It's just that mathematically for the weight and mph (I trapped 108mph on the last run with a horrible 60') I should have been in the 12.6x range.
Ouch!
Fine, here's the whole story:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11402
Cliff Notes:
1996 1.8 & Torsen w/ 197K miles in a bent 91 chassis
eBay Chinacharger T3/T4
Chinese exhaust manifold
Tial 38mm wg vta
full 3" exhaust, Dynomax straight through
eBay 18x12x3 core intercooler
new gen HKS SSQV bov
6spd (thanks Ben!)
standalone ecu
Walbro 255/550's/diy single feed rail/Mallory 4309 regulator
line lock
Average 26-29mpg, 31mpg when attempting to drive nicer. Autox as much as possible.
About one year and 8500 miles on most of this setup.
Ouch!
Fine, here's the whole story:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11402
Cliff Notes:
1996 1.8 & Torsen w/ 197K miles in a bent 91 chassis
eBay Chinacharger T3/T4
Chinese exhaust manifold
Tial 38mm wg vta
full 3" exhaust, Dynomax straight through
eBay 18x12x3 core intercooler
new gen HKS SSQV bov
6spd (thanks Ben!)
standalone ecu
Walbro 255/550's/diy single feed rail/Mallory 4309 regulator
line lock
Average 26-29mpg, 31mpg when attempting to drive nicer. Autox as much as possible.
About one year and 8500 miles on most of this setup.
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0
06-18-2008, 02:26 AM
#13
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 15,442
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Been to the dyno? Sub-13 is serious fast.
BTW, sell that ******* torsen ASAP. It's worth $600 right now and it won't be worth **** in a few more launches. Pick up an open '94 diff and swap an Rx7 LSD into it.
BTW, sell that ******* torsen ASAP. It's worth $600 right now and it won't be worth **** in a few more launches. Pick up an open '94 diff and swap an Rx7 LSD into it.
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06-18-2008, 08:27 AM
#16
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The car came with a salvage title and hit hard in the back. I can't always hit the alignment numbers I want on the right rear.
No dyno, maybe if there is a really cheap local dyno day.
It does bother me that people are blowing up Torsens. Considering the car gets 15-30 full on drag radial/R compound launches a month I am a little worried. I also feel that it's driveline shock that breaks things. My co-driver and I never drop the clutch, we slip it for 5'-10'. The other thing is that I run the wimpiest clutch/pp that will hold the power, which currently is a Exedy stage 1 organic on a 1.6 aluminum flywheel. Won't chirp the tires in 3rd gear but has never slipped even after being launched hard 8-10 times in one hour.
Years ago I broke a trans input shaft on my street slick shod RX-3 w/ puck clutch and race pressure plate. This happened in 2nd gear but the damage was probably done while doing 4th gear chirps and many burnouts while holding the brake. Thus the line lock in evey play car since.
I do have feelers out for the RX-7 diff. I've come close a couple times.
It does bother me that people are blowing up Torsens. Considering the car gets 15-30 full on drag radial/R compound launches a month I am a little worried. I also feel that it's driveline shock that breaks things. My co-driver and I never drop the clutch, we slip it for 5'-10'. The other thing is that I run the wimpiest clutch/pp that will hold the power, which currently is a Exedy stage 1 organic on a 1.6 aluminum flywheel. Won't chirp the tires in 3rd gear but has never slipped even after being launched hard 8-10 times in one hour.
Years ago I broke a trans input shaft on my street slick shod RX-3 w/ puck clutch and race pressure plate. This happened in 2nd gear but the damage was probably done while doing 4th gear chirps and many burnouts while holding the brake. Thus the line lock in evey play car since.
I do have feelers out for the RX-7 diff. I've come close a couple times.
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06-18-2008, 08:37 AM
#17
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Last year I got a 1.99 60' on 195/60-14 Fuzion HRi's on daisies!
The first time I ran the five year old 225/50-15 BFG drag radials my best 60' was a 2.17 with an average of 2.25.
With the line lock and the ability to heat them a little, they did better this time. Still, with fresher drag radials or maybe the autox tires it should get a tenth or two on the 60'.
To make the launch more consistent and easier to control I'm thinking of hooking up the left horn button to activate smoother/lower boost. So I can hold the button on launch then release it when shifting to second gear.
The first time I ran the five year old 225/50-15 BFG drag radials my best 60' was a 2.17 with an average of 2.25.
With the line lock and the ability to heat them a little, they did better this time. Still, with fresher drag radials or maybe the autox tires it should get a tenth or two on the 60'.
To make the launch more consistent and easier to control I'm thinking of hooking up the left horn button to activate smoother/lower boost. So I can hold the button on launch then release it when shifting to second gear.
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06-18-2008, 09:08 AM
#18
Last year I got a 1.99 60' on 195/60-14 Fuzion HRi's on daisies!
The first time I ran the five year old 225/50-15 BFG drag radials my best 60' was a 2.17 with an average of 2.25.
With the line lock and the ability to heat them a little, they did better this time. Still, with fresher drag radials or maybe the autox tires it should get a tenth or two on the 60'.
To make the launch more consistent and easier to control I'm thinking of hooking up the left horn button to activate smoother/lower boost. So I can hold the button on launch then release it when shifting to second gear.
The first time I ran the five year old 225/50-15 BFG drag radials my best 60' was a 2.17 with an average of 2.25.
With the line lock and the ability to heat them a little, they did better this time. Still, with fresher drag radials or maybe the autox tires it should get a tenth or two on the 60'.
To make the launch more consistent and easier to control I'm thinking of hooking up the left horn button to activate smoother/lower boost. So I can hold the button on launch then release it when shifting to second gear.
Which line lock do you use? Have it plumbed right where the proportioning valve is?
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06-18-2008, 12:41 PM
#20
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http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
The stock prop valve is gone, I've got a Summit brand (rebadged Wilwood I think) adjustable prop valve on the rear brakes. It made a HUGE difference in braking.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I need to spend the time to get my pictures together and make new thread on my wheelhop. In a nutshell, the cast spacer between the bottom of the diff and the ppf was split. The cause of that was an egged out hole on the ppf. The cause of that was probably a loose bolt. Pretty sure the car came that way. So changing the bushings to the Mazda comps, heavily welding up the 2nd cracked spacer, replacing the ppf (I had one laying around, otherwise I would have fixed the old one by welding and drilling/grinding) fixed things up pretty good.
Considering I autox a lot, my suspension is very underdeveloped. OTS konis, stock cut springs (probably way too stiff for the bumpy lot we run in), no rear bar, RB front hollow bar.
I didn't play with the shock settings at the strip. Someday I will. I should have put the rear on full stiff just to see the difference. The car does squat so to keep the weight transfer to the rear may help with the first gear traction.
Burnout:
Get a line lock, then do the burnout like the fast V8 guys. Drive around the water, back up into the waterbox, slowly spin the tires just a couple revolutions to wet things, drive forward a few feet to get out of the box. Pump and hold the brakes hard, engage linelock, release brake. Select 2nd gear, depending on where you make some tq, rev the motor and take the slack out of the driveline by easing the clutch out to the engagement point then release the clutch moderately hard. Modulate the throttle, keep the wheel speed up - this reduces hop. After you feel you've hurt your tires enough or are done impressing the kids, release the linelock and as you roll forward hit the gas hard to carry it out. Don't cross the staging beams or start line unless you run faster than a 10.0 ET. It's just track etiquette.
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