99 BEGi S4
 

This is a 99 10AE equipped with a standard BEGi S4 and Xede. Xede is at default, out of the box settings. IE, super rich (10:1 going to 9.x:1) and super weak timing. Stock midpipe/cat, Racing Beat axle back.
Running wastegate only, no boost controller of any sort, appx 11.5 psi. Pulls taken on a mustang dyno and results are not corrected.
For comparison, other cars that ran today
-96 N/A, 80whp
-1.6 M45 car, 120whp.
-99 MP62, 140whp
-94 FM2L 2560, 170whp
-02 FM2H 2560, 170whp

So I'm pretty happy.

Glowing manifold pictures and video coming soon.

Cant see shit. is that 192 peak? Good numbers I guess for right out of the box.

WOW! Close to 200whp on a Mustang Dyno with the stock mid-cat is sweet. Is the S4 stock with a 2560? The curves look fairly streetable too.

To answer your question Sam, yes, 2560.

Glowing Manifold Video:

Fuckin whicked!!!

i wouldn't run that car in that configuration long. besides melting shit in the engine bay, that heat is building up because there's a problem (clog?) downstream. there's free power in that bitch somewhere!

All of those numbers look very low. Because of the Mustang Dyno?

yeah it appears that their numbers would compare with a dynojet better if you add 20%. so ben's 192 is really more like 230ish.

and another thought on my comment on the glowing mani... it may not be clogged exhaust so much as just the untuned xede. not enough advance or fuel or who knows.

I'm thinking a combination of restriction and tune.

Good #s for that configuration any Ben! I'm sure there's a LOT of power to be had in uncorking the exhaust and dialing in some timing and less fuel!

I agree completely that there's more power to be made, and less torque to be lost over 6200. The stock midpipe isn't helping things. Neither are the default settings in the Xede. As far as the possibility of melting shit, watch Paul's videos of the machine on the dyno. He's not having any issues.

Here is the timing map as provided by BEGi:
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/7079/timing1.jpg


This is the actual timing map I run. It's the same in boost, but I have changed all of what I perceive to be vac cells to 0. This eliminated the highly annoying P0300 that would trigger over and over as I would drive.

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8660/timing.jpg

I wish I had a table with the stock timing map so that I could see actual timing values instead of offset. I also wish I could corelate the y axis airflow values to actual MAP values. To atleast get me started.


This is the fuel map that came from BEGi and has not been touched by me. It's fat everywhere, and richer than 10:1 up top.
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/9633/mafg.jpg


Less restrictive exhaust and better ignition are coming, followed by tuning. And perhaps an ECU swap to adaptronic if it's deemed viable.

Sometime I'll figure out how to use this camera and get nice pics. Until then,
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3826/pict0093v.jpg
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/730/pict0094c.jpg
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/2270/pict0095c.jpg

The dyno operator told us to expect low numbers. He said that their dyno reads low, even as far as mustang standards go.
Ultimate numbers aren't hugely important though.

started tweaking a little. went back to Bell's base timing map and added just a little in boost. pulled some fuel at idle and in boost. made all the difference in the world.

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/16/timingnew.jpg
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9217/mafnew.jpg


*assuming that Y value 30 is 100kpa.

btw ben, you can get an OBDII scanner and find out what your timing is on the car side.

With most ferrous metals involved with cars, cherry red is somewhere around 1100F. The EGT is seldom below that when under boost or cruising hard. If that manifold wasn't glowing cherry red, something is bad wrong. It doesn't hurt anything and all nearby components are quite well protected.

damn...that mani scares me...it will crack if it keeps doing that.

The S4 manifold is braced to the motor mount.

my tubular mild steel doesn't glow like that. it glows some at the collector but not nearly that bright. this is at 250 rwhp or so.

y8s - isn't your manifold using far thicker material? Like sched 10 vs. something like 16ga. stainless on the BEGI mani? I wonder if anybody watched mine while it was on the dyno- I know it's 16ga. stainless (or mostly stainless ;) ).

Y value is engine load. Typically, 30 is where it hits boost, but that is not a given.
Stephanie

it's pretty beefy. i think sch10. it seems about .1" wall-ish.



you can see it get a little red deep down in there...

I know I didn't even think to see if your manifold was glowing. It doesn't help that your manifold isn't out in the open like Ben's. That and we were all wondering if you were going to put down more power then the Protege.

Gotta get a decent exhaust on that! A high flow cat and a decent diameter - 2 1/2" or larger.

If you haven't already, put some heat wrap around the cruise cable where it's against the heat sheild. I froze up 2 of them cooking them on track days. With that glow on the dyno you can see why. Some extra heat wrap around the cable took care of it.

I was standing right there next to your car, but I didn't pay any attention to the manifold. I was looking at the real-time hp readout on their computer waiting for the adjustable cam gears to do their magic, lol.

--Ferdi

Jason (enthuza) is going to be hanging on to my car for a few days and making an exhaust. We need to get our schedules together. No rush or timeline set. I told him I wanted something wicked, 3", and dual, and he's got a blank slate from there.

If I can get this freakin xede to datalog, I will actually start some real tuning.

Rob, I did not see your mani glow.

Nice on the exhaust. I've got an s4 system using Enthuza high flow cat and only a single 2 1/2". The sound is great and my 2860 spools great with it. Should make a huge difference. I went with an early model, 94, to avoid the headaches of piggy back since I have to DEQ.

Tune and exhaust and I'd expect at least another 40hp at that boost level.

no 240 mustang rwhp is not reasonable with only exhaust and tune. 240 dynojet, no problem, I am there or close after the slight tweaks from yesterday.

Attachment 207558

That's my 94 on a mustang running just under 11lbs. A stock cat has to be a huge restriction. I'm likely completely wrong but I'm betting you'll be suprised when you get that breathing and running right.

Really, really impressive. You've got the potato, I've got the 2560, so I won't be putting down as high of numbers as you.

However, your chart makes me want a potato. Damn.

You've also got a MS don't you?

Yea, Megasquirt. I gave up the comfort of the NB chassis to get the lack of DEQ trouble and a higher level of control by being OBD1. Paul has proven the 2560 to be a awesome up to 300hp. It's a great turbo for mid 200 levels and I'd guess that's why you went that way. No reason not to expect more of yours.

I'm obviously no turbo guru or wealth of knowledge and likely embarassing myself by thinking you could gain so much. You made good Mustang numbers pig rich and plugged up. I'm just anxious to see what happens when you get the new exhaust and better tune going.

dont show this graph to hustler...

what exhaust and A/R turbine are you running?

probably a tubular manifold. I'm still making 20whp/40wtq more. I already told you that my dyno rpm isn't accurate too. 4k = 1BAR

What is everyone's obsession with my dyno shit?

it's just me

Y8's. That's just mean!

My set up is the standard S4 tubular with the potato on it. 2 1/2" enthuza with a high flow cat.

Hustler is doing just fine. He'll get used to his current power level and start upping the boost by this fall is my guess. He's used to VW's and all the reliability headaches. Once he gains some confidence in the built motor he'll turn up the screws.

Seriously the power my car made seems to be an anomaly for the set up. I'm thinking of getting it back on the dyno soon now that I have a little more MS knowledge under my belt.

Alright kiddos, going back to the dyno on Thursday with the DIYPNP MS2.

I know I can't top Paul Rein's Machine, but dammit we're gonna try to give him some competition.

Realizing I never posted it here, this is my last run. This run has 3" exhaust compared to stock midpipe with RB 2.5" duals in the previous run. ~12 psi on the dynapack. I hope to beat this Thursday.

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/17/scan0006mm.jpg

Nice numbers for 12psi. Stock internals?

Wastegate only and yes.

Had a very frustrating day at the dyno.

Not all of it was bad though. The horrible rattling noise coming from the front of the motor ended up being not serious.

Without boost control, and with the wastegate actuator holding the gate tight, car made 12 psi and 200 ft lbs before 3000 rpm on the dynapack dyno. Unfotunately it creeped to 17 psi by 4800. 17 is the magic number that overboost protection comes in and kills the power. Had 220 rwhp at the cutoff. These numbers put me in line to make power similar to Paul's Machine, which pleases me.

To keep boost at reasonable levels, we had to set the actuator rod to full loose. Spool suffered significantly. 10 psi at 3500, slow creep to 14 by 7000. Ended the day with 245 whp at 7000, at 86% duty cycle on RC550 injectors. 12.5:1 a/f up top, could not make it any richer.

Luckily I can fix the spool problem with boost control, and I've got an MTuned fuel rail. I'll also pick up a 250HP fuel pump.

245 sounds a bit low, but the fact that I'm running out of fuel with 550s says a lot. Since we were out of fuel, and it was already 5pm, we didn't even adjust timing. After the boost control and fuel upgrades, I'll try again. I don't expect to hit Paul's numbers, but I am going to get close. I credit it to the bottom mount turbo and straight downpipe.

We also did scope the LS2 truck coils, which are little monsters. Optimal dwell is 4.5 ms wasted spark. When I get a CAS and start running sequential, I'll bring them to 5.5 ms.

245whp on 550s at 86% screams dying fuel pump. Leave the fuel rail stock, upgrade the pump, and go back.

I don't disagree at all, but I already own the rail. Figure I'll do the rail and the pump at the same time and only smell like fuel once. The filter has already been replaced.

Good luck with the pulls after fuel upgrades. Interested in seeing final numbers with some Ign timing.