Artech 1.6 at 10 psi
07-21-2012, 05:04 PM
#84
Slowest Progress Ever
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I know that, but how much of a restriction do you think this causes in a turbo setup...I like that muffler/ sound. I think Paul uses the same one one his wife's car...or whatever she is.
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07-22-2012, 01:38 AM
#87
If you like it and don't want to change it, don't. No one's forcing you to. But don't kid yourself that the difference is small or insignificant.
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07-22-2012, 01:40 PM
#88
My muffler is chambered. Power is down because of that (but still a nice bump over stock). It's relatively quiet with a really nice sound, all burbly and stuff. It's a DD. You make compromises. You just need to find YOUR happy medium somewhere between stock and Faeflora's 5 minute MTBF ("Mean Time Between Failures").
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07-24-2012, 03:05 AM
#89
Cpt. Slow
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Virtual Dyno got it pretty damn close! 5hp high and 8ft/lbs low. That's with a weight, as you can see, of 2100lbs, which is a very rough estimate. If I put in 2000lbs it gets the hp dead on, I doubt with my stock seats, roll bar, and turbo setup I'm that light.
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07-24-2012, 09:21 AM
#92
Awesome. Subscribed for the "after" dyno.
ARTech full 3" was the very last piece I added to my first setup. Never dyno'd it before I pulled it all off the car, but it was a really BIG kick in the pants, and I had to add a shitload of fuel (VEs increased about 15% when I was done tuning).
I had a tiny IHI turbo from an old BEGi setup, so spool didn't change a lot, but it kept pulling up top which was what I wanted. Broke the tires loose everywhere and commenced to own lightly modded Mustangs once I put on some real rubber.
ARTech full 3" was the very last piece I added to my first setup. Never dyno'd it before I pulled it all off the car, but it was a really BIG kick in the pants, and I had to add a shitload of fuel (VEs increased about 15% when I was done tuning).
I had a tiny IHI turbo from an old BEGi setup, so spool didn't change a lot, but it kept pulling up top which was what I wanted. Broke the tires loose everywhere and commenced to own lightly modded Mustangs once I put on some real rubber.
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07-24-2012, 03:26 PM
#95
Cpt. Slow
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Biggest concern right thar.
My car's been great but my whole philosophy with this build is to keep it cheap(er). $500+ in exhaust doesn't quite reflect that, although I did cancel a $200+ track day to buy it.
Hopefully any added power won't require a forged engine. If and when I hit 200hp I'm stopping there.
My car's been great but my whole philosophy with this build is to keep it cheap(er). $500+ in exhaust doesn't quite reflect that, although I did cancel a $200+ track day to buy it.
Hopefully any added power won't require a forged engine. If and when I hit 200hp I'm stopping there.
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07-24-2012, 06:35 PM
#98
Mine was somewhere around 240whp when it blew.
Don't know if coincidence, but it was the same night I installed full exhaust and stepped up to 12psi. Picked up a big chunk of power before even turning it up to 12
IF you simply add exhaust to your setup and don't raise boost or timing, I think your car will actually run safer. Less backpressure, heat, det, etc. and make more power in the process
Don't know if coincidence, but it was the same night I installed full exhaust and stepped up to 12psi. Picked up a big chunk of power before even turning it up to 12
IF you simply add exhaust to your setup and don't raise boost or timing, I think your car will actually run safer. Less backpressure, heat, det, etc. and make more power in the process
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07-24-2012, 10:46 PM
#100
Now . . . here is something else that is interesting about this exercise.
Curly's first efforts were directed to the piping immediately around the turbo, i.e., the manifold and the downpipe. Changing these by themselves did not have the expected power gain because of the restriction downstream (to be confirmed).
Turbine pressure ratio multiplication effect is the big deal here. Based upon that, it would appear that the most cost effective exhaust mods should focus on the exhaust from the downpipe on ("after the turbine"). The design of the exhaust manifold itself doesn't have much of an effect because it is not subject to the turbine "multiplier." I suspect all those springing for big, fancy tubular exhaust manifolds are mostly wasting their money, dealing with packaging issues and increasing engine compartment heat. It is not the same thing as exhaust headers on a NA engine . . . there is no scavenging effect when you've plugged up the exhaust with a turbine wheel.
So, sub'd for confirmation (actually, Brain's incredible results are already pretty clear I think).
Curly's first efforts were directed to the piping immediately around the turbo, i.e., the manifold and the downpipe. Changing these by themselves did not have the expected power gain because of the restriction downstream (to be confirmed).
Turbine pressure ratio multiplication effect is the big deal here. Based upon that, it would appear that the most cost effective exhaust mods should focus on the exhaust from the downpipe on ("after the turbine"). The design of the exhaust manifold itself doesn't have much of an effect because it is not subject to the turbine "multiplier." I suspect all those springing for big, fancy tubular exhaust manifolds are mostly wasting their money, dealing with packaging issues and increasing engine compartment heat. It is not the same thing as exhaust headers on a NA engine . . . there is no scavenging effect when you've plugged up the exhaust with a turbine wheel.
So, sub'd for confirmation (actually, Brain's incredible results are already pretty clear I think).
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