BEGi Shanghai 1.6L Dyno - Thoughts?
 

1990 1.6L 5spd, Begi-Shanghai, 5-6psi, non-intercooled base kit, NGK BKR7ES-11 plugs at .042 gap. No other mods on car (stock cat, stock exhaust). Timing backed about 1/8th inch from stock mark I made on CAS. No idea on the actual current timing.

BEGi claims 140-160rwhp at 5-6psi. I wish I could give you the wideband readings but the damn LC1 is on the fritz. I videoed the FP gauge during the runs and the needle vibrated a ton and FP maxed around 60-65. Clamping the return line netted 80psi per the manual. No pinging.

Any thoughts? Could it be those numbers are with aftermarket exhaust and test pipe?

TIA - Daniel

Attachment 202896

Im having M-net deja vu

Id like to see what happens with the muffler unbolted

Thought I'd give it double coverage :)

Yeah, I'm curious on the muffler. I would think BEGi had basic upgrades on their test car prior to dyno but I could be wrong. I'm going to calibrate my LC1 this weekend and get some more solid data.

By the way, 3-4.5psi from 2500-4500 and then gradually to 6psi.

1. NGK BKR7ES-11 plugs at .042 gap.
2. stock cat, stock exhaust.
3. Timing backed about 1/8th inch from stock mark I made on CAS. No idea on the actual current timing.
4. LC1 is on the fritz.
5. 3-4.5psi from 2500-4500 and then gradually to 6psi.


My thoughts of things wrong with this picture.

So you spend the $$$ to throw it on the dyno, but can't confirm base timing? Low dyno numbers may have been the least of your problems. You do know you can't aways hear detonation right?

Get your shit together before you start stressing the car out (dyno).

1.Timing is everything. Jump the ground and ten in the black diagnosis box on
the drivers side. Then check your timming withe the timing light.

Tighten cas back, check the timming again to make sure it didn't move during the tightening. Then remove jumper wire so the timing advance will work.

Did you get any timing device with the kit. msd or bipes? That would change the whole balgame of where to set your timing.

2.Now for the LC-1. does it read normal out of boost? If not recalibrate it.

If it reads normal out of boost. Are you running lean or rich when in boost?

If too lean or rich it will peg the Wbo2 out.

3. Are you getting pining when it is not clamped?

4. Gap plugs to the right gap.

5.Check to make sure the afpr is hooked up right. and you have to adjust it. THE PRESSURE GAUGE (afpr will only work in boost)WILL ONLY READ HIGHER WHEN IN LOAD (BOOST). iF YOU ARE GETTING PINGING. i WOULD ADJUST THE AFPR ALL THE WAY TO RICH and back off just a little.

If you don't get this straightened out quick. It will probably blow up.

Remember ease your way into boost and if any stumble, studer, oil gauge bouncing, or pinging. LET OUT!

When in DOUBT LET OUT.
Good Luck!

I am guessing you are running lean until 4500, where the computer starts dumping in a lot of fuel.

My guess would be you need to turn down the center screw on the BEGi FMU (I assume that's what you have for fuel management) to increase 0 vac fuel pressure and then open the needle valve to decrease the pressure rise to boost rise.

Sure would be nice to have some real data. Like base timing and AFR.

Is the WG can to flapper rod fully tight?

Thanks for all of the responses. To clarify:

- BKR7ES-11 plugs came recommended from threads on this forum
- .042 Gap is the stock gap on those plugs, I verified with my gap tool
- Threads on this forum recommended largest gap without blowout, so I left at stock gap
- BEGi's instructions for tuning the kit were followed precisely. I don't think they plan on the buyer to have a wideband, that's a bonus. Admittedly I should have recalibrated mine before I threaded the sensor into the downpipe.

I looked at a few dyno's and spark blowout seems like I would have a lot of corruption in the dyno plot. So I'm guessing that's fine. AFRs are probably my best bet at this point. I'll recal the LC1 and see if I can output a pull to my computer. I think if I tweak up to 140rwhp through the stock cat and exhaust I'll be on target for this small of a turbo. I've got a buddy with a timing light, so I'll work on that this weekend.

Regardless of the spark plug gap (which I still think is too high), you're guessing on the ignition retard, you're guessing on the AFR. Two of the more important things. What if you're running 10* retard and 10:1 AFR? OF course your numbers will look like above.

On top of that the spool on the turbo is whacko. It looks like you're making 1psi until 4K. So you either you have an exhaust leak or your wastegate rod is too loose. IF anything you should install a MBC set at 6psi. This will help spool the turbo without raising the boost level.

Its making about 3.5-4.5 psi from 2500-5000 and then gradually increases to 6psi starting at ~5800. It almost seems as if the actuator is set to 4.5psi and it's boost creeping to 6psi. I have a couple of spare MBC's laying around, don't know how much I trust them though.

jesus man, buy a timing gun and at least pick a dyno with a wideband

Seems like a nice guy.

But I don't know what it is about miata guys that want turbo..... They are bad about not listening.

I'm the last guy on the forum to bust someones balls...Unless they are arrogant.

DUDE ALL I HEAR IS BOOOOOOOMB from this thread.........


Don't get mad and stop using the forum.....We are trying ot help you.

Don't even boost the car until you know your timing. AT ALLLL!

so you have bipes or Msd. If not set your timming at 8 or 9

We have so many people blow their motors.

Good Luck

that is very possible, Im runing a shanghai setup on my 99 and I have pretty epic boost creep, im in the process of building a new downpie to fix this.

The actuator should be opening at about 5-6 psi when its screwed almost all the way out