Miata GReddy Dyno
 

I finished my project yesterday...

GReddy manifold, turbo and downpipe.
RX-7 intercooler with custom piping
Vortech FPR
14 deg base timing
OBX dual SS exhaust
NAPA cat
Wastegate tightened as far as she'll go. :)

146.5 rwhp and 144.8 rwtq

huge jump in TQ! what are you using to control your timing? bipes?

I got very similar results, but the dyno lost tach signal above 4500rpm. I got 149ft/lb at 4500rpm.

I have a Bipes, but I don't have it installed. Don't need it right now. She's running fantastic. I'm not getting any pinging even in the hot Alabama summer. The intercooler does the trick. I'm not going to have to use the Bipes until I start to run more boost.

We couldn't make it ping until we were almost at 9psi. :) We had to shut her down at that point, but you could see by the graph that it was on it's way to about 15 more horses. :eek5:

wtf, im over here playing it safe. 6 degrees @ 6psi :robert: with an intercooler

put a MBC on it and watch it grow further, at the same psi level.

Finally, another dyno to feast my eyes on....nice numbers for just screwin down the wastegate. She's a torque monster. Probably because your not reducing your timing and the OBX is probably pretty restrictive.

Yeah... The low end on this car is absolutely fantastic. Who needs a supercharger when a GReddy can make 145 rwtq at 4500. :) What is amazing is that I picked up about 60 ft/lbs of torque on a car that only made about 86 ft/lbs to begin with N/A. That's about a 70% increase. :)

The best thing is that I can actually run my air conditioner without it feeling like I'm pulling a grand piano behind the car.

Regarding the OBX exhaust I think that it is pretty free flowing. I can definitly feel and hear and see on the boost gauge the turbo start to spool well before 3000 rpm. You can also see on the graph that it's making at least 12 more ft/lbs already at 3000 rpm.

Oh... And I definitly think the timing is a big factor. It was one of my goals... To not have to retard the base timing to some ridiculous number.

i was under the impression that it was not safe to run 14* timing with just the base kit. right now I just have the base kit and bigger exhaust, stock injectors, 6* timing, and no engine management. I was going to get my IC then engine management then up the boost and timing to about 8psi then get bigger injectors... Is it "safe" for me to just adjust my timing to 14*???

not unless you have an IC or timming control or WI, or, dont like your motor. He has an IC so he should be ok. i leave mine at 10 becouse it just feels better but that is just me one day i will see if a get more boosted power with more timming probably so but for now 10 degress is good for me. Not to shabby kid free up that exhaust and you should get some more hp.:cool:

Its not fully spooled until about 4300 by the looks of the graph, thats pretty late. I used to see 12psi @ 3400rpm in 3rd gear. Also, I would retard the timing, but if you wanna risk it go right ahead, its dangerous though...

I hear what you're saying and I'm hopefully going to install the Bipes this afternoon. Better safe than sorry.

That will probably help with your spike on your a/f. Adding a MBC will help increase spool as well for about $10.

Installed the Bipes today, because I was still getting some pinging during the hottest part of the day under full boost and full load. Wiring and setting the Bipes was not difficult, but you really have to pay attention. I used vampire clamps for 4 or the wires and then spliced the CAS wire into the Bipes. The way I see it is the Bipes basically intercepts the CAS signal and overrides it.

Right now it's just stuck in between the passenger seat and the transmission tunnel until I decide where to mount it. I set it for the most agressive settings. When I first tried to crank the car after the wiring it would turn over but not start, and I'm thinking... "How did I blow it, I paid close attention to every wire." I went around to the other side of the car to have a look and then realized that I forgot to plug the harness back into the ECU. :bang: "What an Idiot!"

Anyway got that resolved and warmed her up and proceeded to flog the crap out of her for a few redline runs and absolutely, positively, no pinging this time at all. :D Too bad the Bipes can't remove timing and then put it back in later on in the power curve when the fuel richens up a bit.

Please....to save a headache post later on........take off the vampire clamps and solder the wires properly! The vibrations from the car causes all kind of nightmares with those stupid things. Using these, and putting loctite on a grounding bolt are the worst electrical things you can do for your vehicle.....I've experienced this.

that brings up a question......can the Emanage do that?

Actually, the Bipes timing curve does add back some of the stock timing above 5000 RPM or so (it's been a while since I read the instructions, but they show the ignition retard curve).

The e-Mangle can retard timing as well, but these two can't add anything above the base timing as far as I know.

emanage can add or subtract timing at 16 points +/- 20 degrees(numbers might be a little off)

Can I use one of those solder thingies that you can solder with one second and then touch to you finger the next second and not bet burned? :)

Huh... That's interesting... Maybe I should actually take a look at the dvd/CD that came with the thing now that I actually have it on my car. :D

yup....personally don't like those, but it will work as long as your getting nice chrome like solder joints.

My understanding is that the bipes can only retard timing, news to me that it can add it back in.

The original designer of the bipes modified the newer versions to add timing back in at higher rpm. See the following link under the software revisions section there is a graph of version 1.5 12/20/01 that shows how it adds timing back in.

http://frontiernet.net/~bipesauto/BipesACU/

There you go, learn something new everyday.

Cool... I'm sure I have the latest revision. Thanks for the response. When you read that website, it's kind of impressive what that relatively cheap little black box does.

hey magna... i have the starion ic with j!mpipes... my timing is at 8degrees @5psi... you said earlier that with an ic/timing control, or wi, i can throw my timing back up? i dont know if i will throw it to 14 til i get my emanage put in, but is 10 ok? pm me!
thanks, marlon

i like your torque!

i hope to be pushin that much but now i think i might hit 140 if that with a stock greddy kit + trust intercooler + DP +bov. hopefully I CAN GET IT IN THE FREAKIN MAIL in the next 2 weeks!

:gay:

This looks like a nice setup. I am getting my hands on the Greddy in about a week, and am looking into intercoolers. What diameter tubing are you using to connect the intercooler to the intake manifold. Do you know what the benifits are to having a 2.5 or 2 in piping? Ive seen anywhere from 2 to 3 in piping being used.

no benefit whatsoever from one over the other.

Thank you Braineack. Why is that? I understand that you want the tubing to 1 get rid of heat and 2 deliver air to the manifold (under pressure) efficiently. This means a smooth pipe. If you were to have a larger volume of air inbetween the turbo and the manifold, wouldn't the turbo have to work harder to keep that larger volume of air under pressure? By increasing the volume of the tubing, wouldn't that creat a lag? Do you know what I should be looking for in the tubing, from a design stand pt?

Would the system work best with tubing as short and as small in diameter as possible without decreasing after the intercooler?

the turbo compresses the air, it should fill a large volume of pipes and make it to the TB in approximately the same amount of time it takes to fill 2" pipes.

if you can measure a difference, I'll give you a cookie.


what i believe to be ideal is 2" into the intercooler (or match your turbo outlet) and 2.5" out of the intercooler to match to TB.

With the Wastegate tightend all the way, you can only get 7psi?
I could get like 13, or even more maybe, havent tried.
Oh wait, it could be beacue of the hole i drilled on the rod! Doy :eek4:

Good to know. Thanks.

I've just taken off all the Greddy pipes and installed 3" ones.
I mounted the AFM directly on the turbo, clocked the turbo downwards and used a 3" stainless elbow which goes into a 3" pipe running in front of the engine up to the TB.
Turbo now kicks in at 3,900 RPM whereas before it was around the 3,500 RPM.
Now....where's my cookie ?

I'm still not hitting 6PSI though for some reason and that was my main reason for changing all the pipes as there was a boost leak in the old ones. Gonna check all the couplers & Tbolts again since it was 11:30pm last night when I brought it out for the first time and couldn't see crap.

Fergus- What size were the stock Greddy pipes? Am I correct in understanding that the larger pipes increased the RPM at which you were hitting a given boost pressure? Where you hoping to increase your boost pressure by increasing the pipe size, or where you just trying to correct an old leak with new pipes?

he's got other problems. large intake pipes will not change the his spool up rate.