Trackspeed Stage 2 VVT shortblock, EFR6758, E85, 452whp/427wtq@26psi. I'm scared.
11-08-2017, 01:10 AM
#21
If you are spinning in 6th, you have snow tires on.
I know of 5 500wtq v8 miatas that hook (2 on "street" tires), and 2 600+wtq turbo v8 miatas that hook, IN FIRST GEAR.
There is something wrong with your alignment, suspension, and tires if you are spinning that hard, when FAR faster vehicles have ZERO issues.
I know of 5 500wtq v8 miatas that hook (2 on "street" tires), and 2 600+wtq turbo v8 miatas that hook, IN FIRST GEAR.
There is something wrong with your alignment, suspension, and tires if you are spinning that hard, when FAR faster vehicles have ZERO issues.
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11-08-2017, 10:53 AM
#23
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Temperature, summer tires, humidity all make a difference. I can spin 3rd on dry pavement depending on the temperature. Cars that hook, still get a bit loose sometimes, and it can be a little unnerving at speed. Enjoy that thing, sounds like fun to me.
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11-08-2017, 11:00 AM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 552
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Yes, except that the gearing isn't much better than the stock 6-speed. The nice thing about the Quaife gears is that they're tall enough to enable you to put ludicrous amounts of power to the ground. The KMiata swap will require changing out the final drive (probably with a Getrag diff) to something lower than even the oft-anticipated 3.3 r&p.
The Quaife gears are beefy and will put up with tons of abuse (I autocrossed for years with my first set, with numerous smoky burnouts aimed at impressing the hoi polloi). It was only once I started tracking that they failed. My theory is that the 5-speed case can't handle the heat, starts expanding and the gears no longer mesh properly. A chipped tooth will inevitably result.
I'm considering the KMiata swap, but am reluctant to discard my really cool (and bulletproof) Guru billet differential. Besides, I retired my '93 from track duties and now have an MSM to fill that role.
The Quaife gears are beefy and will put up with tons of abuse (I autocrossed for years with my first set, with numerous smoky burnouts aimed at impressing the hoi polloi). It was only once I started tracking that they failed. My theory is that the 5-speed case can't handle the heat, starts expanding and the gears no longer mesh properly. A chipped tooth will inevitably result.
I'm considering the KMiata swap, but am reluctant to discard my really cool (and bulletproof) Guru billet differential. Besides, I retired my '93 from track duties and now have an MSM to fill that role.
The e30 5-speeds are geared taller than the e46 5/6 speeds, might be a good option for you, especially if you're trying to retain that rear end.
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11-08-2017, 12:29 PM
#26
I'm scared of this one 
Motor:
The lower lines are what I will drive it at, 415whp/386wtq and ~84% peak duty cycle. Peak of 265kpa, holding ~258kpa all the way through. ~23psi of boost. At that power level it wants to turn the tires in 4th gear at 90mph on dry pavement.
That's it. My goal was 400whp, anything beyond that was gravy. With a usable, safe (lol) 415whp and an Internet Hero-Pull(TM) map at 450whp+, I couldn't be happier. There's nothing further planned for the powerplant in this car.
Excuse me while I update my life insurance policy.
Motor:
- Trackspeed "Stage 2" shortblock
- 83.5mm Supertech 8.6:1 piston w/ thermal coating
- Manley H-beam rods
- ACL Race bearings
- ARP head/main studs
- Boundary Stage 2 oil pump
- OEM untouched BP6D head
- OEM valves
- OEM solid lifters
- Supertech heavy double valvesprings
- OEM BP6D cams
- OEM EUDM Squaretop manifold
- Trackspeed Turbo Kit w/ BW EFR6758 0.64a/r
- Precision 350hp intercooler
- prototype Trackspeed IC pipes
- Enthuza 3" exhaust
- MSLabs MS3 Basic w/ CAN Wideband
- Innovate LC-2
- Injector Dynamics ID1000 (96%DC max, lol)
- Walbro 455lph E85 fuel pump
- Rewired fuel pump (dedicated relay)
- OEM BP6D fuel rail, OEM returnless forward of FPR
- Fuelab 535 FPR (60psi w/ 1:1 boost reference)
- Fuelab 818 filter (6ppm Fiberglass media)
- E85 (80% actual content)
- prototype Trackspeed GM D585 coils
The lower lines are what I will drive it at, 415whp/386wtq and ~84% peak duty cycle. Peak of 265kpa, holding ~258kpa all the way through. ~23psi of boost. At that power level it wants to turn the tires in 4th gear at 90mph on dry pavement.
That's it. My goal was 400whp, anything beyond that was gravy. With a usable, safe (lol) 415whp and an Internet Hero-Pull(TM) map at 450whp+, I couldn't be happier. There's nothing further planned for the powerplant in this car.
Excuse me while I update my life insurance policy.
Im in the middle of building my motor now with pretty much the same setup as you. Do you think id be fine with a DW300 or is the 455 necessary. Also is there any reason you didnt do oversize valves or are they just kind of un necessary on the BP6D head
Last edited by matrussell122; 11-08-2017 at 12:30 PM. Reason: spelling error
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11-08-2017, 12:52 PM
#28
If you are spinning in 6th, you have snow tires on.
I know of 5 500wtq v8 miatas that hook (2 on "street" tires), and 2 600+wtq turbo v8 miatas that hook, IN FIRST GEAR.
There is something wrong with your alignment, suspension, and tires if you are spinning that hard, when FAR faster vehicles have ZERO issues.
I know of 5 500wtq v8 miatas that hook (2 on "street" tires), and 2 600+wtq turbo v8 miatas that hook, IN FIRST GEAR.
There is something wrong with your alignment, suspension, and tires if you are spinning that hard, when FAR faster vehicles have ZERO issues.
Reply
0
0
11-08-2017, 01:04 PM
#29
If you are spinning in 6th, you have snow tires on.
I know of 5 500wtq v8 miatas that hook (2 on "street" tires), and 2 600+wtq turbo v8 miatas that hook, IN FIRST GEAR.
There is something wrong with your alignment, suspension, and tires if you are spinning that hard, when FAR faster vehicles have ZERO issues.
I know of 5 500wtq v8 miatas that hook (2 on "street" tires), and 2 600+wtq turbo v8 miatas that hook, IN FIRST GEAR.
There is something wrong with your alignment, suspension, and tires if you are spinning that hard, when FAR faster vehicles have ZERO issues.
Reply
0
0
11-08-2017, 01:53 PM
#35
Former Vendor
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Valves and headwork would be very beneficial at this power level. It won't make a big difference on torque, but it would probably have pushed this setup north of 500whp.
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11-08-2017, 01:56 PM
#37
Supporting Vendor
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 635
Total Cats: 322
Very nice, congrats. Glad it all came together so well. Hope to see it in action next fall.
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11-08-2017, 05:59 PM
#39
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 98
Total Cats: 17
So Savington, given the nature of what I think this build is - mainly a road car that can be tracked with devastating results - what would be your ideal:
1. road wheel tyre combo, and
2. semi-slick wheel/tyre combo for the track?
1. road wheel tyre combo, and
2. semi-slick wheel/tyre combo for the track?
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11-08-2017, 07:14 PM
#40
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This is strictly a road car. Full interior, all the trimmings, plus a few I've added (traction control and active suspension). In spite of the crazy dyno numbers, my well-developed road race car (Rover) is 5+ seconds per lap faster than Acamas is, owing entirely to lower weight, better aero development, and suspension that's optimized for road course performance. I did several track days in this car in 2016 and early 2017, but it's both slower and less fun than Rover is, so once Rover was up and running, I retired Acamas from track use.
To answer your question, the ideal road wheel/tire combo depends on your goals. I wanted maximum straight-line traction, reasonable longevity, and decent ride quality, so I have a 245/40 Hankook RS4 on a 15x9 6UL. If I wanted to trade ride quality for cornering grip, I would go up to a 15x10. If I wanted less longevity and more grip, I would go to a 245/40 Rival S.
For a track wheel/tire combo, it's the same answer - it depends on your goals. On Rover, I use a 245/40 Maxxis RC-1 most of the time, because it's inexpensive, long-lasting, and forgiving. If I want to maximize speed, I swap up to a 245/40 Hoosier R7. Both are on 15x10 6ULs.
To answer your question, the ideal road wheel/tire combo depends on your goals. I wanted maximum straight-line traction, reasonable longevity, and decent ride quality, so I have a 245/40 Hankook RS4 on a 15x9 6UL. If I wanted to trade ride quality for cornering grip, I would go up to a 15x10. If I wanted less longevity and more grip, I would go to a 245/40 Rival S.
For a track wheel/tire combo, it's the same answer - it depends on your goals. On Rover, I use a 245/40 Maxxis RC-1 most of the time, because it's inexpensive, long-lasting, and forgiving. If I want to maximize speed, I swap up to a 245/40 Hoosier R7. Both are on 15x10 6ULs.
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