What a Jerked Off Night
 

So I just got back from Numidia raceway, which took me about 1 hour to get to, and needless to say I shoulda stayed the F home.. My car ran great on the way up, and on the way back, but at the track it was a different story. Keep in mind, my car has the stock clutch, so I pussy footed it off the line.
1st pass:
I lined up against my friend's LS-1 camaro.
He went 13.249 @ 107.53mph
I went 16.465 @ 73.87
Right when I left the line, my AFR went lean and I heard a vacuum leak. When I made it back to the pit area I figured out that I blew a cap off a vacuum T that goes to the MS.

2nd pass:
I lined up against a 2004 Mustang GT
He went 14.187 @ 95.85 with a 2.090 60'
I went 14.474 @ 101.77 with a 2.536 60'
This was the best run of the night, which sucks cause I should easily be in the 13's. Oh yeah, I datalogged this run. I hit 13.1psi and my afr's were really rich, so I have some cleaning up to do.
Attachment 11430

3rd and final pass:
I lined up against an EVO 8.
He went 13.665 @ 102.83 with a 2.051 60'
I went 18.978 @ 60.45 with a 2.450 60'
Right after launch, I blew another vacuum line. This one was under the hood, the one where my line T's into for the MS and boost gauge supply. Right when I heard it blow, I actually coasted down the track. I came around, grabbed my slip, popped the hood, fixed the line, and got the F outta there.

Zip ties are your friend for those caps that are blowing off.
Atleast you know your weakpoints. I'd definitely try some street runs next time to eliminate simple failures like this as well.

When's the ebay F1 clutch getting installed so you can actually launch?

Rich is an understatement. Your tune is all over the place.

we need to work on that tune before you dyno. what type of boost control?

Hairspray works on pipes, might work on Vac lines too.

Chris

I replaced all my vac lines with silicone ones from MossMotors and zip tie all of them. That sucks dude....but at least nothing major happened. :bigtu:

I'm gonna glue all the vacuum lines in place, boost control is an air compressor regulator, (maunual boost controller.) I have 2 more wires to solder in place, then everyting MS and LC-1 related will be soldered and I need not worry about loose connections. As for the Ebay F1 clutch, I'm thinking Flyin Miata Level 2. I'm gonna do all those wires and vacuum lines today, and then I'm gonna run a few datalogs and I'll re-post probably my 5th log and tune later tonight.

try a helper spring too. that boost drop sucks.

never had an issue with my vacuum lines, i have zero securing methods on mine

New datalog after 4 VE Analyzes
 

So since Friday night at the track and all my Vac line BS, I glued everything. There was 2 wires (coils 1 & 2) in the MS parallel harness that I soldered. Now everything that I added to the car is soldered and wrapped in heat shrink tubing. I drove the car a little bit on saturday and a little bit yesterday, and I drove it today to my parents house (20 minutes, all kinds of driving characteristics.) I had datalogged about 3 times and VE analyzed it 3 times since Friday night. So I left my parents house this afternoon and datalogged it to my house. Check out my datalog and my .msq. In the datalog, about 1/2 way through you will see that I get a reset. Why? My AFR's are spiked all over the place. It's just a mess. It seems like when I start the car when it's sitting for a day, it runs fine after it gets up to temp. Then I drive it, and park it, and shut it off....take it back out a few minutes later, it runs different. Perhaps this is a grounding issue?Attachment 11457

Attachment 11458

where's the AIT sensor? it's most likely heat soak and you need to tune the clt-based density corrections table.


your AIT reads incredibly high.....180-130*F???


you got crazy spikes all over the place, grounding issue. the Gair is trying to take massive amounts of fuel out of your map because of the AIT temps....

The AIT sensor is in the intake tube right before the throttle body, (after the intercooler.) It is the stock 99 Miata one. What ground do you think my problem is at? My MS is grounded through the parallel harness. The other grounds involved are, my LC-1 which is grounded to a wire that is also my Oil Temp gauage ground, they go through the firewall and connect to the engine ground strap located right under the back of the exhaust manifold. Actually this strap is connected from the engine to the body, could this be a bad place to ground? I could change it to the ground up near the throttle body...

1 more thing, I noticed that I also have my CAS grounded to the same point as the other stuff I mentioned. Since I put the MS in I also noticed that when I shoot it with a timing light, the light sometimes doesn't have a steady flash, like it's skipping a beat. Maybe it's a CAS grounding issue?