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-   -   E-Manage Blue new install, will start, but not run (https://www.miataturbo.net/e-manage-10/e-manage-blue-new-install-will-start-but-not-run-66202/)

Yetidragon 05-30-2012 05:01 AM

E-Manage Blue new install, will start, but not run
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi Guys,

I am helping a friend with his Emanage Blue installation on a 1997 UK MX5.

The car has a mp45 supercharger, 330cc injectors, the E-Manage Blue.

The car runs on the standard ECU (well it did before intersecting the airflow and ignition wires for the E-Manage blue.)

I used the harness diagram from the DIY MS thread to identify the wiring for the Emanage ie:-
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1338393893

I have checked the wiring several times and i believe it to be correct

Has the standard MAF sensor and a MAP sensor

I have checked the internal jumpers against the manual, and they are set:-
J1, 1-2
J2, 1-2
J3, 1-2
J4, Open
J5, Open
J6, Open
J7, 1-2

internal rotary switches set to 3, A, 0.

no error codes are flashing on the E-Manage
Updated using the latest 1.49 from Greddy

The laptop connects to it and appears to communicate fine
All tables are full of zeros

The fuel pump primes when ignition turned on.

the car starts very easily, then dies 1 or 2 seconds later.

The fuel pump is still running after she dies, and switches off a few seconds later, as expected.

If we start the car, and pump the throttle, she responds and runs when there is a varying input on the throttle. Its as if hte injectors are opening for accelleration / start up, but closing off completely for idle / constant throttle.

We have attached a noid light, and it seems to reflect this, when pumping the throttle, the noid shows signal, on release of the throttle / constant throttle, there is no signal to the injectors.

This is my first time with an E-manage, as far as i can see, everything is set correctly, wired correctly, but we are getting this very curious issue.
We have tried quite a lot of searching and reading manuals (then re-reading them) but have not yet come up with a solution.

Really hoping that someone can poke us in the right direction.

Many thanks in advance for any help any one can give.

Matt

sturovo 05-30-2012 06:39 AM

A vacuum leak can cause similar idle problems.

Yetidragon 05-30-2012 07:33 AM

Thanks for your reply.

We have just double checked the induction run, there doesn't appear to be any leaks.

sturovo 05-30-2012 11:55 AM

2 Attachment(s)
The attached zip file has log file data from a cold start from on my car that may be helpful to see if any of your values are out of whack. (Import to support tool under options/data analysis.) I have similar 320 cc injectors and am running EMB with a turbo.

The reason I suggested a vacuum leak is that the symptoms were similar for me when I let a plug out of the intercooler piping.

messiahx 05-30-2012 08:35 PM

It kind of sounds like there's an issue with the MAF signal -- like the ECU isn't getting an accurate one. I had the same exact setup a couple years back and it sounds like you've got everything set up correctly. You have the MAP sensor wired in to the boost port and have the appropriate settings changed? Can you provide some datalogs (in pic format preferably -- I don't have the greddy software anymore)?

Log MAF In & Out, MAP, anything ignition related. I think the max number of variables you can log at a time is 5, so it might take a few times. The more data the better. I think I have some EMB related docs somewhere as well, I'll see if I can find them as well.

Yetidragon 06-10-2012 09:17 AM

Hi again guys, sorry for the slow reply, but we have only just managed to get back into the garage to start working on this car again.

You are spot on, it is the MAF that is causing us issues.
With MZ HW 1 (main unit) selected, we have the symptoms already described, the MAF on idle / constant throttle input and output voltages are far out (input around .35v output .008v)

using mz hw 3 or mz hw 4 the car will run and idle, but the voltages are once again very different from input to output, not at all as close as in sturovo logs.

I am guessing that some of the other parameters we have selected are not correct, but have not yet found which one we have got wrong. I have done a bunch of searching to find if there are some defaults i should be following for the MX5, but have not yet found any thing.

Thankyou very much for all your help so far guys :D you have done a wonderful job of pointing us in (exactly) the right direction and saving us loads of trouble shooting time :D

Does anyone have / know of a list of the settings that we should have set in the Parameters of the E-manage blue?

Thanks again guys.
Matt

sturovo 06-10-2012 09:52 AM

you may have to solder in a 1k ohm resistor in the emb to get it to read correctly. I did this on my 99
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showt...age%20resistor

This link is for a emb manual that may be helpful but 3a0 looks right for the rotary switches.
http://aeclipseguy.tripod.com/pdf/em...coperation.pdf

Yetidragon 06-10-2012 10:23 AM

Hi again, and thanks for your reply.

it looks like the resistor has already been soldered in place by the previous owner (EMB was previously on a mk2)

Reading the PDF in your link, and the instructions that came with the EMB, I agree with you that 3A0 is correct for the rotary switches.

could i ask what MAF you have selected in your Parameters on your EMB

Thanks again
Matt

sturovo 06-10-2012 11:22 AM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Yetidragon (Post 888075)
Hi again, and thanks for your reply.

it looks like the resistor has already been soldered in place by the previous owner (EMB was previously on a mk2)

Reading the PDF in your link, and the instructions that came with the EMB, I agree with you that 3A0 is correct for the rotary switches.

could i ask what MAF you have selected in your Parameters on your EMB

Thanks again
Matt

MZ HW-1? Attached is a gsc that should show you the settings I use.

I am not sure if the resistor is needed or not in your car as it is 97?

messiahx 06-10-2012 11:45 AM


Originally Posted by sturovo (Post 888084)
MZ HW-1? Attached is a gsc that should show you the settings I use.

I am not sure if the resistor is needed or not in your car as it is 97?

I bought my EMB used from a Honda guy, but I don't recall there being a 1kohm resistor having to be soldered in/did not see one and it worked great on my 97. Can't hurt to remove it and see what happens.

4sfed5 10-15-2012 02:49 AM

i had the same issue with a NA8.. iset the afm up like the NB 1800 ad a resistor and did exactly what yours is doing.....cut the resistor and it will be all fine...double check what the setting should be for the na8 afm...i dont think its the same as the NA6 flapper afm.


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