HELP!!!! I'm completely confused
03-08-2008, 12:37 PM
#1
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HELP!!!! I'm completely confused
Some of you may know I recently installed a EMU on my 2004 MSM from me asking a gazillion questions. I was having issues getting it to idle and run properly, ran like pure crap. I assumed that since I was using used RX7 460 cc injectors and didn't get them checked first that was causing the problem. We'll I got my brand new RC 440's installed today and it seems even worse. Seems to be running rich as hell. Seem like no matter how much fuel I remove from the injectors tables it does not good. For some reason the car has no power and boost will not go much past 0 vacuum. Car just pokes along smoking. After a short trip/testdirve today, my tailpipe got so hot it melted the bumper cover...WTF. Also, my check engine light started blinking. I've seen it on here and there, but never seen it blink. Right now I am completely confused and have no idea where to start other than trying to find some stock injectors and removing the EMU. I attched my setup. Any idea welcome
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03-08-2008, 12:50 PM
#3
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Not used? you mean zero out the AF/taget map? I thought autotune used the target map to set up the other tables. Is that not correct? I don't have any logs,
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03-08-2008, 01:44 PM
#4
Under vehicle settings, there's whole bunch of options about how it does it's thing.
The idea is to disable as much stuff as possible, to troubleshoot. Besides, you never try to autotune from the start.. You get a base then autotune off that.
You really need datalogs, so we can see what the emanage is getting from input, and the changes it's making.
The idea is to disable as much stuff as possible, to troubleshoot. Besides, you never try to autotune from the start.. You get a base then autotune off that.
You really need datalogs, so we can see what the emanage is getting from input, and the changes it's making.
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03-08-2008, 03:59 PM
#8
change some settings under the AF target window. the throttle position, feedback cycle, temperature, i emailed you my map a while ago why don't you just load it and go from there.
the AFR ratios are adjusted automatically if everything works right. put 80in the lowest right corner and 80 in the lowest left corner. than put your mouse on the left or right side and click and hold drag the selection all the way up to 0 on the psi scale. than right click to get the options to appear and click "interpolate 4 corners" are you ever running 29 psi? if not rescale the tables to what suits you. if you are melting the bumper on your car it is not good at all. i would not drive it or you may melt the pistons as well.
come to GBoro and well figure something out. lol
look at some of my old posts and read a bit JOE did some major work with me and there is some good data here.
the AFR ratios are adjusted automatically if everything works right. put 80in the lowest right corner and 80 in the lowest left corner. than put your mouse on the left or right side and click and hold drag the selection all the way up to 0 on the psi scale. than right click to get the options to appear and click "interpolate 4 corners" are you ever running 29 psi? if not rescale the tables to what suits you. if you are melting the bumper on your car it is not good at all. i would not drive it or you may melt the pistons as well.
come to GBoro and well figure something out. lol
look at some of my old posts and read a bit JOE did some major work with me and there is some good data here.
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03-08-2008, 05:13 PM
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change some settings under the AF target window. the throttle position, feedback cycle, temperature, i emailed you my map a while ago why don't you just load it and go from there.
the AFR ratios are adjusted automatically if everything works right. put 80in the lowest right corner and 80 in the lowest left corner. than put your mouse on the left or right side and click and hold drag the selection all the way up to 0 on the psi scale. than right click to get the options to appear and click "interpolate 4 corners" are you ever running 29 psi? if not rescale the tables to what suits you. if you are melting the bumper on your car it is not good at all. i would not drive it or you may melt the pistons as well.
come to GBoro and well figure something out. lol
look at some of my old posts and read a bit JOE did some major work with me and there is some good data here.
the AFR ratios are adjusted automatically if everything works right. put 80in the lowest right corner and 80 in the lowest left corner. than put your mouse on the left or right side and click and hold drag the selection all the way up to 0 on the psi scale. than right click to get the options to appear and click "interpolate 4 corners" are you ever running 29 psi? if not rescale the tables to what suits you. if you are melting the bumper on your car it is not good at all. i would not drive it or you may melt the pistons as well.
come to GBoro and well figure something out. lol
look at some of my old posts and read a bit JOE did some major work with me and there is some good data here.
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03-09-2008, 02:51 PM
#11
The rule of thumb is always to tune wide open throttle before tuning idle and cruise. To get a base, you do some pulls, make some changes.. etc.. Aka, a little real tuning. Auto tune is not intented to build a whole fuel map from scratch, nor is the emanage ultimate's autotune equal to that of a Hydra or any other standalone. Autotune is designed to smooth out a map of any little holes that might be present and to help drivability, not build a fuel map for someone who doesn't know how to tune.
One question.. Do you have the injectors hooked in an in/out fashion, or just tapping the wires? Both methods are acceptable, but only the in/out method will allow you to take away injector.
What happens if you take away a bunch of MAF voltage?
One question.. Do you have the injectors hooked in an in/out fashion, or just tapping the wires? Both methods are acceptable, but only the in/out method will allow you to take away injector.
What happens if you take away a bunch of MAF voltage?
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03-09-2008, 02:54 PM
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The rule of thumb is always to tune wide open throttle before tuning idle and cruise. To get a base, you do some pulls, make some changes.. etc.. Aka, a little real tuning. Auto tune is not intented to build a whole fuel map from scratch, nor is the emanage ultimate's autotune equal to that of a Hydra or any other standalone. Autotune is designed to smooth out a map of any little holes that might be present and to help drivability, not build a fuel map for someone who doesn't know how to tune.
One question.. Do you have the injectors hooked in an in/out fashion, or just tapping the wires? Both methods are acceptable, but only the in/out method will allow you to take away injector.
What happens if you take away a bunch of MAF voltage?
One question.. Do you have the injectors hooked in an in/out fashion, or just tapping the wires? Both methods are acceptable, but only the in/out method will allow you to take away injector.
What happens if you take away a bunch of MAF voltage?
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03-09-2008, 03:03 PM
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I basically too a setup from someone similar to mine and autotuned from there. Moneys not the issue, it's the lack of tuners familiar with the system.
Last edited by msydnor; 03-09-2008 at 03:22 PM.
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03-09-2008, 09:13 PM
#16
"I basically too a setup from someone similar to mine and autotuned from there. Moneys not the issue, it's the lack of tuners familiar with the system."
turbo tune in greensboro does emanage tuning. if you are around town let me know maybe i can save you some money i'll try. if i can't get it to work than we go to turbo tune to get yours fixed and dyno my car
maybe we'll get a discount
turbo tune in greensboro does emanage tuning. if you are around town let me know maybe i can save you some money i'll try. if i can't get it to work than we go to turbo tune to get yours fixed and dyno my car
maybe we'll get a discount
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