I'm about to sell EMB and buy a MS >.<
 

I've got a map sensor hooked up and calibrated to the tps input on Emanage. That way I can tune by boost instead of airflow and still have the ability to take out fuel using the airflow adjustment map based on TPS(MAP). TPS percentages below 50 percent = Vacuum. Above 50 is boost. Simple yes?

With my 305cc injectors I set it to -17 everywhere in vacuum to get it to idle and cruise at stoich.
I'm running EMB in conjuction with a Begi AFPR, hoping to use the EMB to clean up the AFR curve.

Now the problem, Any kind of changes I make on the map when I'm tuning WOT seem to have zero effect on my AFRs. Trying to get rid of a lean spot up to 13.4 AFR, I worked my way in 5% increments up to +50, the maximum adjustment and yet it still ran 13.3-4 in the same spot. I'll post some logs when I get home.

Right now I adjusted the AFPR so that it goes up to 12.6 at 4kRpm. Everywhere else in boost, it runs way too rich, 9s and 10s.

Any ideas?

i'll buy it from you :bigtu:

why not just tune the airflow and call it a day?

What are you using for an O2 clamp?

IIRC 1.6's have an on/off tps switch, you didn't tap the tps wire by chance?

I do have an O2 clamp. Hooked up and working properly.

Yes, 1.6s have a WOT switch for the tps. I haven't touched that wire.

It runs stoich until the instant I hit boost, there, even at 1 psi, it'll run 11s, 10s, 9s.

How do you have the TPS calibrated? Where is your zero and where is your 100%?

Have you pressurized your MAP and watched the realtime display to see where it is reading at different boost levels and reading correctly?

I calibrated it by grounding it, 0 volts, then showing it the 5 volts from the power for the MAP sensor itself.

MAP sensor is accurate because I previously had it hooked into the MAP sensor plug and it read the correct PSI according to my boost gauge.

The map trace function shows that it is indeed calibrated correctly.

if youre going to use the afm adjustments on the emb, it wants to see a tps signal... what i did to get that function to work was use the map sensor voltage for the tps voltage. as soon as you do that, and calibrate it to work within those voltages you'll notice that the +/- afm adjustments will start to make a change on how the car runs. you could also always adjust your afm for the perfect idle... but then you'd have to tune around the changed afm settings. either way, either one of those things will fix what you're talking about. have fun.

Did you even read my post??:confused:

Is it not obvious that that's how I already have it hooked up?